Top Plants for Sun, Deer Proof and Ease of Care
jakejones
14 years ago
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alina_1
14 years agoanitamo
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Deer-proof, May-blooming in zone 5??
Comments (10)Fencing - 7-8 feet if you're fencing an area (perhaps lower if they can't see where they'd land if they jumped over). There are different thicknesses of netting used; typically a very fine 3/8-1/2"ish netting and a heavier 5/-8-3/4"ish netting. In either case, make sure they can't wiggle under or put their head under and pop the lower staples off the pole (lost every leaf off a Fantastica last winter that way). The fine stuff tends to get tangled; birds can get caught in it, etc. Cheaper, but hard to manage and not strong if the deer hit it by mistake. The heavier stuff tends to retain it's form more; doesn't get tangled easily. Much stronger, but a deer on a run can go through it. 50-100% more expensive. Probably lasts longer. I like the heavy stuff. Poles: don't go too wimpy, and drive them deep enough. You can get away to a degree with slightly wimpy stakes, but it makes it easier for them to push the netting against the plants (see below). 1x1" or 2x1/2" or 3/8" would probably be the minimum. I bought some 2x2"s for next winter. Metal (green-painted) poles for fencing are probably better and longer-lasting - I got some of those too. I plan to do major fencing this fall (bought and plants 60-70 rhododendrons, azaleas, and pieris this year). To make it possible to remove the fencing quickly, I plan to install 2"ish PVC pipes in the ground about 12". The metal poles will slip into the PVC pipes (and I may secure them somehow). In the spring, I pull the end of each section of netting, and roll the netting around the poles until I reach the other end. Reverse to install in the fall. Or so goes the plan... :-) There are some good books on Amazon on deer control, and also the net. For individual plants or small areas (too small to jump into), shorter fencing works. Make sure that they can't push the netting up against the plants, or they'll eat them right through the netting! I lost 1/3 the leaves on a big Yaku Princess that way last winter, 50% off a Blue Peter, etc. For the problem, get some heavy wire mesh rabbit/etc fencing and/or chicken wire. Take a section, cut it from the roll, let it make a rough circle and use the ends to lock it. If needed, take a section of netting (or burlap or whatever) and fasten it across the top. Put over plant. If worried, stake it down with one or two stakes. This is very safe for the plant. They can be reused year to year, but storing them might be annoying unless you flatten them. Deer rarely touch rhodos or azaleas in the summer unless there's a SEVERE drought, so long as there are other things to eat. Usually not even in sever grought. Mine got hit last fall in November. I'll bet on the deer eating the maximums in mid-late winter again. Instead of soap, try one of the egg+garlic(+hot pepper) sprays in the winter, but you need to remember to do it every week or two or three. Or fence...See MoreKeep Deer Away from Plantings
Comments (7)I have rose bushes, echinacea, wood aster (supposed to look like "snow in Sept."), liatris, great blue lobelia and peonies encircled in 4' high cages. The deer either reach down into the cages (no tops) or rip them out of the ground (staples and all) to get to these plants. I expect trouble with rose bushes but not with others that are on all the "deer resistant" lists that the deer never read. They plucked every peony bloom right off the plants. Thought they were supposed to be fool proof when it came to deer. If the deer don't get a plant I can be reasonably sure the rabbits or "stinking moving shag carpet" (groundhogs) will get them sooner or later. This is all in a residential neighborhood that backs up to a farm and a narrow strip of state owned "open space" land. Too many deer and not enough food...except what I plant. Gets progressively worse each year and this year is a real bummer. My next move is to put another 3' of fencing on top of the 4' fence circles. I'll twist tie them together so I can easily access plants for maintenance and hope longer earth staples work. They've developed a taste for garlic and mint so none of the sprays work any more. Sound cheerful, huh? Not...but I'm not giving up on seeing something bloom after all the work it took to grow, plant and maintain these plants. I fully realize it's starting to look like a plant gulag around the house but I'm not ready to throw in the towel. Close but not there yet....See MoreDesperate for deer-proof hedge
Comments (49)I HATE, HATE, HATE Barberry! I ripped out all the Barberry the former, desperate homeowners ever planted here. What is considered deer resistant will vary depending on where you are, in colder zones, they will eat more plants that would otherwise be avoided further south. I use the following plants successfully here in Zone 7B NJ to avoid the deer. 1.) Cherry Laurel "Schipkaensis": it's highly poisonous, and they know it! It's the cyanide! Don't worry, it won't kill Bambi, they are smarter than people and won't think of eating it..., but if you have kids..., who knows. It grows FAST and forms an impenetrable hedge from the ground on up. 2.) Holly, they ignore my spiny hollies (Nellie Stevens, Chinese Holly)..., they will munch on Japanese Holly if stressed by deep snow..., they may munch on blue hollies. 3.) Osmathus heterophyllus 'goshki' (False Holly)..., it's very prickly 4.) They seem to ignore Rhododendrons 5.) They will not eat any bamboo (clumping or running) but love to make their dens under the cover of bamboo. 6.) And finally, it may not work in New England, but they don't eat Magnolia grandiflora (Southern Magnolia)..., but LOVE to rut them in the Autumn. P.S., I have more DEER neighbors than human neighbors, and I JUS' LOVE IT!...See MoreTaking care of plants in flood, drought, heat, and cold
Comments (37)Fertilizer plan for pots is tricky, since potting soil doesn't have trace elements like in-the ground soil. Pots leach out nutrients with frequent watering. Pots accumulate the alkalinity of tap-water, and pots become more alkaline in hot & dry climate. The ratio of nutrients is important. Re-post what U. of CA found in rose-tissue: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7465.html For low-ratios, it would be 3 Nitrogen, 2 Potassium, and 0.2 Phosphorus, plus 1 Calcium and 0.25 magnesium. For ppm it would be 50 iron, 30 manganese, 30 boron, 15 zinc, and 5 copper. Re-post the outline which I wrote for Carol in 2015 regarding fertilizer plan for pots. Tomato-Tone is better than Rose-Tone since it has more of the expensive green sand for potassium, plus gypsum for calcium. I always put a couple of earthworms inside my pots, and some organics on top to feed them. Tomato-Tone NPK is 3-4-6, with 8% calcium, contains Bio-tone®, Espoma proprietary blend of beneficial microbes. ONCE A MONTH in hot & dry weather: Tomato Tone NPK 4-3-6 to supply the trace elements of zinc, copper, and boron in chicken manure. Plant Tone is cheaper and works the same. ONCE A MONTH in rainy weather: Pea Gravel & red-lava-rock to supply the calcium & magnesium & trace-elements. That's to fulfill the high-ratios of nutrients in rose tissue in %: 5 nitrogen, 3 potassium, 0.3 phosphorus, 1.5 calcium, and 0.35 magnesium. For ppm it would be 250 manganese, 150 iron, 15 copper, 50 zinc, and 60 boron. Below is Yves-seedling, which I grew from a tiny-seed in 2012, it's 7-months old in 5 hours of morning sun. MG-moisture control potting soil is used. Jobes NPK 2-7-4 is mixed into the potting soil for beneficial bacteria. It's watered 3 times a week with tiny amount of sulfate of potash (21% sulfur at NPK 0-0-50) together with gypsum (calcium sulfate with 17% sulfur) to lower my high pH tap-water. I don't like the high urea, high salt of MG-soluble, so I used a tiny bit of high-phosphorus Bloom-Booster (lower salt-index) for trace elements. Lots of buds (more than 5) on a 7-month-old baby grown from seed. Potassium and calcium, plus phosphorus are needed for solid-root-growth to survive my 5a winter (I transfer roses from pots to ground before winter hit). Below is Excellenz Von Schubert that Seaweed in CA grew In full-sun, fertilized with fish emulsion. Seaweed uses Gardner & Bloom organic potting soil for EVS rose, it blooms lots for her, despite her low annual rainfall of 11" per year: Here's the ingredients in Gardner & Bloom potting soil for the above pot that Seaweed used: "INGREDIENTS: Recycled forest products, bark fines, peat moss, perlite, sand, composted chicken manure, alfalfa meal, bone meal, oyster shell & dolomite limes (as pH adjusters), worm castings, bat guano, kelp meal." http://www.kellogggarden.com/products/gborganics/soils/?s=rose-flower-planting-mix...See Morejakejones
14 years agoalina_1
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