yes, just like ZTR you have control of back wheels(which may take some getting use to) and the both pull. But, still top heavy so the slop can't be as steep as zero turns IMO which have lower center of gravity. IMO other than that should be about same as zero turns features.

About beating on the shaft with a hammer: Be advised that if you strike the threaded end of the shaft repeatedly, you may damage the threads. The old tried and true trick in a situation like this is to leave the nut in place on the end of the threaded portion so that the nut is exactly flush or even with the end of the shaft threads. This will held prevent a mis-aimed blow from wiping out threads as well as help keep "mushrooming" to a minimum. Since you are already beating with a hammer, try this additionally: If you can enlist a helper, one person should STAND UP on the floorboard and pull upward with both hands (left and right hands at opposite hours of the clock) while the other person strikes the shaft or the jack bolt of the puller. With the nut in place, only a slight reaction to the person doing the pulling will be felt when the steering wheel lets go (without the nut it could turn into a backward somersault). If you are only able to work alone, try to sit on the seat and hook your knees under the rim of the steering wheel and then lift up with your feet while you strike the target spot.

I hate to admit it, but my wife came up with the solution: after trying to drive the bolt out and damaging the thread in the process, she said the magic word: WD40. I sprayed the area around the bolt on both sides last night, and this morning it took only a light tap and it came out.

May I presume you have been hitting this pin with a hammer and punch? You will need to "back-up" or "fortify" the steering wheel with some heavy object while striking the roll pin. This can be accomplished by having another person hold a good sized sledgehammer (or similar heavy mass) against the wheel to keep the steering column and wheel from just bouncing with the impacts. Place the "back-up" mass directly opposite the side where you will hit the pin (but not in the exit path of the pin). When the wheel and column are not "held fast", the bouncing or deflection soaks up all the energy instead of moving the pin. And don't think that you can just have someone hold the wheel firmly with their hands, it takes a solid mass to reduce the bouncing.