Stubborn Steering Wheel....

14 years ago

Ok...I am not in the habit of showing my stupidity, but here goesÂ. I am trying to remover a steering wheel from an older garden tractor. I've gotten the nut off, but the wheel refuses to separate from the shaft, I have gear puller on it, but the ears do not quite extend far enough under the lip of the hub to engage the metal part, and are pulling on the plastic. I have put as much pressure on it as I dare and have rapped the center shaft of the puller that rest on the end of the steering shaft as hard as I dare. Used plenty of "PB Blaster", but this thing acts as thought it is welded onto the shaft. If anyone can point me in the right direction, it would surely be appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

ericwi
14 years ago
You could run an extension cord, and gently heat the steering wheel with a hair dryer. A second application of penetrating oil, as the assembly cools, might do the trick. I would let the steering wheel assembly sit overnight, after this treatment, before attempting to remove it.
mownie
14 years ago
Are there maybe 2 threaded holes in the hub of the steering wheel?, one on each side of the steering shaft?? If so, those holes are there for you to engage and use a steering wheel puller instead of a gear puller.
Related Discussions
John Deere steering wheel removal
Q
Comments (3)
I hate to admit it, but my wife came up with the solution: after trying to drive the bolt out and damaging the thread in the process, she said the magic word: WD40. I sprayed the area around the bolt on both sides last night, and this morning it took only a light tap and it came out.
...See More
John Deere 180 steering wheel
Q
Comments (2)
It's not splined. Problem is that it has probably rusted tight. Try some penetrating oil. If that doesn't work, try a puller. You might have to cut the center out of the wheel so the puller can press against the shaft. Last resort is a torch to heat it.
...See More
Spinner Handle that Fits Steering Wheel Properly?
Q
Comments (10)
OP, I just ordered one. Still waiting for it to arrive... I tried the Easy Rider from Amazon. It was so awesome. I do a lot of 180 turns and this made it go real easy. Overall faster cut time. But they sent me a red one (ad pic was green) and didn't like the look of red on all that green/yellow. Another thing I didn't like was how it indents the soft steering wheel and likely will leave a permanent imprint. Figure with the JD spinner seems more integrated with the tractor (X304) so wouldn't be inclined to take it off...
...See More
How the heck do I remove steering wheel!
Q
Comments (2)
May I presume you have been hitting this pin with a hammer and punch? You will need to "back-up" or "fortify" the steering wheel with some heavy object while striking the roll pin. This can be accomplished by having another person hold a good sized sledgehammer (or similar heavy mass) against the wheel to keep the steering column and wheel from just bouncing with the impacts. Place the "back-up" mass directly opposite the side where you will hit the pin (but not in the exit path of the pin). When the wheel and column are not "held fast", the bouncing or deflection soaks up all the energy instead of moving the pin. And don't think that you can just have someone hold the wheel firmly with their hands, it takes a solid mass to reduce the bouncing.
...See More
hankll
14 years ago
I read on another site where some were having trouble with removing threaded joints, nut/bolt, or as in this case, exhaust pipe in a threaded head.....anyhow, they were heating the threaded joint, and melting candle wax onto the threads. Presumably, the wax would infuse into the threads and the wax would then make it easier to undo. Perhaps the same thing could be done with the steering wheel. As I understood the procedure it didn't require "cherry red" heat, just enough to expand the joint to allow the wax to infuse into the threads surface. Once cooled, the procedure could be repeated until the successful removal happened.
chris_va
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for the ideas......the hub does not have any holes or indentions for a puller. I have left it overnight under tension and I'll see what happens in the morning. I may try the hair dryer idea...that would be the easest one to start with. Ill let you know if I get it off or rip it apart......SOMEthing is going to give....
ewalk
14 years ago
Chris: The Hair Dryer scenario may not generate sufficient heat but a Paint Stripper (Commercial Grade Hair Dryer) lol may or a small prepo torch used carefully on the steel hub may expand the hub enough to allow removal without heat tranfer causing damage to the plastic. Other than that gently tapping the hub with a hammer while applying liquid wrench or any other form of penetrating oil may induce capillary action which will allow the penetrate to creep into the shaft and undo this galled condition. Be patient since it may take a few repeat applications..Ty !
chris_va
Original Author
14 years ago
ewalk...

I thought the same thing. I'll try the hair dryer first (since I have one of those...er...or my wife does). As far as a tourch goes, due to the configuration, if I use one much of it will go directly on the plastic. Patience, I have learned, is a prerequisite for working on a 25 year plus tractor : ).
mownie
14 years ago
About beating on the shaft with a hammer: Be advised that if you strike the threaded end of the shaft repeatedly, you may damage the threads. The old tried and true trick in a situation like this is to leave the nut in place on the end of the threaded portion so that the nut is exactly flush or even with the end of the shaft threads. This will held prevent a mis-aimed blow from wiping out threads as well as help keep "mushrooming" to a minimum. Since you are already beating with a hammer, try this additionally: If you can enlist a helper, one person should STAND UP on the floorboard and pull upward with both hands (left and right hands at opposite hours of the clock) while the other person strikes the shaft or the jack bolt of the puller. With the nut in place, only a slight reaction to the person doing the pulling will be felt when the steering wheel lets go (without the nut it could turn into a backward somersault). If you are only able to work alone, try to sit on the seat and hook your knees under the rim of the steering wheel and then lift up with your feet while you strike the target spot.
chris_va
Original Author
14 years ago
WooHooo!! It's off. I left the puller attached and snugged up really tight last night and soaked everything down with penitrating oil. Gave it several good rapps with a hammer (on the end of puller shaft which was seated on the end of the steering wheel shaft), and went to bed. I went out this morning and took a turn on the puller and it turned with ease. Sometime during the night it came loose. Thanks to all for your responses. : ) Now to get the dash assembly off......

Chris
ericwi
14 years ago
I knew a guy who was restoring an old Jeep, and he was stuck trying to remove a suspension part, or maybe it was a brake part. He put a few drops of penetrating oil on the part, and came back a week later to try and turn the nut. He repeated this for three months, and finally, it came loose. I guess the jeep had great sentimental value to him.
ewalk
14 years ago
Chris: Great to hear that the capillary action paid off over night ! Penetrating Oil are worth their weight in gold some times lol .

P.S. Chris , There is never a stupid question Bro ! That's how we all learn lol .
Eric: Great Minds think alike !
Mownie: Your absolutely right on the shaft threads issue , that is why I advised tapping gently on the Hub only . Although I don't know why I did not mention an Electric Bearing Heater rather than the Paint Stripper unit lol .
Well good luck with the dash Chris , love a Happy Ending .