Dax,

I would just buy whatever electric heater you can get on sale. Home Depot in my area had some nice electric heaters on sale for pretty cheap when I was there last week. I got a separate thermostat (http://kkontrols.com) for mine, because I don't think the thermostats most of them come with are reliable at low temeratures.

Stuart

Well, for any of you who think I am a TROLL just let me LOL, Shows just how little you truly know. I have been contributing to this forum for over 5 years. How long have you been here?

Second, I don't care what you guys own. Just don't compare a HF with a real greenhouse.

Third, (I'm trying to answer everyone here) as far as being negative, I have tried very hard to be supportive and answer everyone's questions, regardless of what they grew in. Most people who are knowledageble growers left because they got tired of "How cheap can I build a GH, and the HF questions. They moved on.

As far as growing and grafting confer, ever looked at my page? I grow conifer for the Dept Of Natural Resources for the reforestation of Washington state. I don't need to justify my Qualifications.

Last but not least, I grow in over 85,000 ft2 of covered Greenhosue space, plus I own one of mine own at home, so I guess I may know a little about what I speak of.

Troll...LMFAO. Get a grip

Weebus has a very narrow, egocentric view of things. HFGHs work well for many people. Some of us don't have or want to spend the money on a larger greenhouse. In my case, it is because I have many different hobbies. Gardening is just one. I grow a lot of dahlias and I get into arguments with dahlia growers who think that showing dahlias in competitions is the only way to go. They can't understand how I wouldn't want to compete. I grow them for fun.

I am a major college football fan. I go to almost every game my team plays in, both home and away (they're all away for me, because I live in a different city). I find going to away games to be very enjoyable, but I would NEVER tell anyone that aren't true fans for not doing so. Even though to me it is one of the coolest things I do, I realize that it's not for everyone. Some people just have other priorities.

I could go on, but the bottom line is the HFGH is great for me. It is small, but is a real greenhouse. When I first saw it in an ad, I thought it had to be junk, because it was too cheap. Thanks to this board, I found out that people like it. I was amazed at how nice it was once I put it together. I think if some people, like Weebus, actually saw one, they would be surprised at how nice they are. Of course, they aren't perfect and some corners were cut to make them cheap. The instructions are simply dreadful. All in all, I'm glad I got it.

I don't care what Weebus says, what his experience is or that he grows in "85,000 ft2 of covered greenhouse space." I'm not a professonial grower and I don't care to be. I do very well being a professional computer consultant.

For those looking for heaters for use in their HFGH -- Black & Decker make a small portable electric heater that has a frost setting as well as a regular thermostat. You can set it to come on via the frost setting or higher via the thermostat. I bought 2 of them, one for the greenhouse and one for my shop out in the shed.

Ken in Glassboro, NJ

Not everyone can afford to, or even wants to, build a full fledged greenhouse. The thing that thrills me to death is that the HFGH is WAY cheaper than the other hobby greenhouses and it works!! I love mine! One of my friends has commercial greenhouse and 2 others have huge custome built greenhouses. They get a kick out of how much I'm growing in such a tiny GH. I have a very expensive hobby (I show a vintage car) and I don't want to get too involved with a bigger GH. I'm happy with the little one.

Weebus...what can I say. You're not nice.

Myself, I have to find deals on food, clothes, and believe it or not greenhouses because I'm disabled and receive very little money from the government.

This isn't a sob story, this is how it is. I barely have enough money to buy food at times...

I feel lucky to finally be getting what I should have had a long, long time ago.

As to my conifer knowledge...all I can say is this. I've spent the majority of the last 4 years personally meeting and grafting with the nice people up at Rich's Foxwillow Pines in Woodstock, IL; I've become a somewhat personal friend of Chub Harper who donated the entire intial collection of the 'Harper Collection of Dwarf & Rare Conifers' at Hidden Lake Gardens in Tipton, MI and who's garden I vistit a few times a year; I used to donate my time at Bickelhaupt Arboretums 'Heartland Collection of Garden Conifers' in Clinton, IA until I became disabled; and I've been emailing Bob Fincham of Coenosium Gardens for many years now discussing propagation of conifers. Bob like the others above is one of the most current authorities alive today and it's Bob who recommended to me several years ago to graft Spruces at 40 degrees F.

I hate to say it, but "I'm" leaving "Your" forum. I will however leave you with some beautiful photos of 'The Harper Collection' & 'Bickelhaupt's Collection' which I took and am posting to add to the overall growth of this forum.

Thanks for thoroughly disgusting me. Should you ever feel the human desire to apologize to myself or anyone else, I'd accept your apology any day of the week and twice on Mondays and I'd never look back.

My Regards,

Dax

Here is a link that might be useful: Conifers Photo Gallery

An oddly contentious thread, especially for the GH forum.

Disclaimer #1: I don't own a HFGH.

Dax, what about putting a layer of 1" thick rigid styrofoam underneath the wood?

Disclaimer #2: I'm not an electrician.

Also, is that line your only power supply? My quick calculations suggest you might need more amperage in the GH.

OK I'll admit I came back. My own curiousity has definitely gotten the best of me.

stressbaby,
I'll look into foam or some sort of insulating product that might be applicable in this situation. That's an interesting idea. The deal however is this: whatever might/may be used would need to allow for free drainage and at the same time not be prone to being washed away rather easily.

Also, I appreciate your concern for my electrical situation, but I can tell you I'm safe and actually up to code. We used romex. For those of you who aren't familiar with romex, it not only carries a serious amount of juice, it's also safe for being exposed to all types of indoor & outdoor weather conditions. It can be left completely exposed (anywhere), it's also commonly buried (underground), and it's also what is used to wire a home and its electrical box.

morrowsmowers,
Thanks for the black and decker tip. Coincidentally, they are my most favorite brand of tools. I love their battery-powered lightweight string trimmers and blowers along with their drills, saws, etc. I think I have a Black and Decker brand for just about all of my power tools. That's exactly what I'm going to look for. Thanks again for the tip.

Take care all and thanks,

Dax

stressbaby,
Thanks for being the mediator and third party. I feel somewhat better, actually much better now.

Much appreciated and no hard feelings weebus.

I'll admit I too got pretty wound up and wasn't thinking as clearly as I'd like to have been thinking.

Take Care,
Dax

Hi All;

Conifers: I'm sorry to hear about the delivery nightmare and hopefully it'll all work out for you. I love the job you did on the floor and framework. I can't think of anything offhand that would insulate but drain well. Sorry.
AS far as heating I'm using 2 milkhouse heaters, one on a thermostat and one to be used as needed. As we sometimes have electrical outages here I'm also keeping a portable propane heater on hand for an emergency.

Consultant, HOW did you manage to cram 75 gal of water into your HF? LOL I'm using 2 large rubbermaid trashcans to catch rainwater from the gutters but would like to use them inside the house as well for solar gain.

Vamptoo, How did you attach the two frames together. Can't wait to see the pics of your expansion..:)

Utlucky, could you post a pic of the lock you bought for the door. I'd like to see it and how it's attached.

and to all. It's a shame this thread has turned into such a contentious issue. But it DOES say Harbor Freight Club in the title...so on to business as usual..:)

Cheers all.

Dave
in an unseasonably warm Milwaukee

Dax,

I guess I wasn't thinking so much about the exposure as I was thinking about amperage. If you have that line and that line only on a 20 amp breaker, then you shouldn't generally exceed 2/3 of that, or 13.3 amps for all the items powered by it. Well, one 1500W electric heater draws 13.6 amps by itself, leaving no room for pumps, fans, timers, a second electric heater, radio, beer fridge, whatever. My GH is bigger, granted, but I think I have 200 amps, something like that. My point is that you could be up to code, yet still not have enough amperage for everything you want to run.

I would put that line in a metal conduit, though, just in case.

Don't forget disclaimer #2. ;-)

Good luck. SB

Dave,

The 'connect the two greenhouses' project is this weekend. We are going to use a wooden strip 1" x 3" up the middle of the edge pieces. Dan says he is going to use silicone on them so they won't leak.

Hopefully the camera will be fixed by then so I can take some decent pics.

Cindy

stressbaby,
I asked my dad about the amperage deal and he says, "You (me) can heat that 'chicken$h!*' greenhouse to 500 degrees on a 20 amp breaker...then as to the exposed wire he went on to say, "the only reason metal conduit is used is so you don't drive a nail through it or saw through it." He says, "believe me - I know what I'm talking about."

Our conversation was relatively funny as you can see.
Thanks for your suggestions nonetheless,
Dax

Just an update.

I learned to heat this greenhouse with my zone 5 temps and to keep it at 45 degrees a heater displacing a little over 5000 btu's is needed. In terms of amperage as dictated from 1500 watts for a 5000 btu heater that comes down to 4 amps of usage per heater.

I'm going to purchase two ceramic heaters at the 5000 btu range along with a fan which of course is more than fine for a 20 amp circuit breaker.

Thanks again for everyones input,
Dax

P.s. stressbaby,
I had thought you were absolutely right about protecting the wire all along however my father wasn't the slightest bit concerned from the beginning. Just this morning I purchased plastic Split Flex Tubing which I learned is commonley used for exposed wires on camping trailers. Thanks for your thoughts, I really appreciate you generating some thought for me. Myself, I have to be honest, I never liked the way that wire was exposed either. My dad finally caved in as well and now thinks that this purchase is worthwhile. Thanks again..

Disregard my above post.

As to heaters...efficiency varies from heater to heater.

I was thoroughly confused about the relationship of Watts and Amps. My dad just explained to me this:

1200 Watts = 10 Amps @ 120 Volts.

Therefore I need to find some efficient heaters which will provide the btu's I need at a low amperage.

Now I'm back to what kind and where I'm going to find these and/or this ellusive heater(s).

Regards,
Dax - definitley not an electrician!

Hi Dax;

I also have been looking for a more efficient heater but I've been coming up with a blank. Almost every heater with the required BTU's that I've seen runs at 12 to 13.5 amps. That's the lowest I've found. Another 20 amp circuit perhaps? Better now than later...:) If you find one PLEASE inform us here.

Thanks

Dave

I've been looking for the greater part of an hour. I'll keep everybody informed.

This was definitely a huge oversight, darnit.

Dax

Dax, Dax, Dax....don't kick yourself...hehehe

not an oversight really...just a glitch. At least you found out before you started the main structure. On another note, has anyone here tried constant low level misting as a way to cool their house? The temp here has been rising steadily and I've been using it for the last few days and it works great. Highest temp I've gotten since I started was 86 degrees in full sun. Otherwise it was at 119....The eggs and bacon are on me? LOL

Cheers all
Dave

I use three Rubbermaid 25 gallon rectangular storage containers lined up on one side of the greenhouse. I moved some gravel out from under them, so they are resting a little lower than the rest of the greenhouse floor. I put shelves over them. They essentially act as the bottom shelf. The other side of the greenhouse has my taller plants, which need to rest on the ground, so I couldn't put any containers there.

"Consultant, HOW did you manage to cram 75 gal of water into your HF? LOL I'm using 2 large rubbermaid trashcans to catch rainwater from the gutters but would like to use them inside the house as well for solar gain. "

There's major trouble brewing with this electrical situation. I've learned that as far as btu's are concerned, it's not possible to produce more than 5120 btu's at the 1500 watt level. And as Dave mentioned (and now its a matter of simple math)...@ this wattage level your dealing with 12-13 Amps. The only solution I see is to either have my 20 Amp circuit breaker converted to 30 Amps or to have the current standing of 120 Volts brought up to 240 Volts. Bringing the juice to 240 would also require a completey new circuit breaker and whether it's one or the other being the solution, it looks to me like my electrical box will need some tweaking.

I actually found a heater on the internet that was labled as producing 6200 and forty some odd btu's at 2000 watts and at 120 volts. I phoned them and learned that what they were showing was a misprint of sorts. Besides, they were asking over 250 dollars for it.

Once again don't quote me on any of this. I'm going to speak with my father tonight to see if what I'm thinking is wrong or right.

Not appearing to be good news for us guys in zone 5 with 20 Amp circuit breakers.

Dax

Sorry, Dax.

I can give you the formula if you want, but assuming a 1500W electric heater puts out about 5000 BTU, lowest outdoor temps of -20F, desired inside temp of 45F, GH surface area of 228 sq ft (H6', W6', L8'), and using 4mm twinwall, you will need BTU capacity of 9880 BTU. This will require two 1500W electric heaters, and therefore at least two 20 amp circuits at 110VAC.

At least this gives you an idea of the BTU capacity you'll need.

SB

Oh, yeah, bump that a little if you are losing any heat through the floor. SB

Hey Dax,

As far as your utility box goes they do make breakers in a 'slimline' type of model. They're designed to place two breakers in one slot...just a thought.

Dave

Well...

My dad and I have decided that I'll be ok with how things are currently set up. After looking at ceramic heaters today we learned that there are several on the market that have settings for both 900 Watts and 1500 Watts on the same heater. So mathematically speaking if I were to run two at the 900W settting I would have a btu of approximately 6140 and this would only use up in terms of amperage about 15.5 or 16 amps. We also discussed that the temperatures here haven't dropped down to -20 in ten years so were not too concerned about that. As a rememedy to the matter however, we also decided that if the weather were to drop below *say* O degrees I could run an extention cord to the greenhouse and plug in another heater with the potential of 1500 Watts or an additional 5120 btu.

So that's where things sit and that's how I'm going to manage this situation.

Dave, You're right about yourself needing another 20 Amp circuit breaker. Having 2X the capacity your basically left to double anything I'm doing here on my end to say it in so many words...I'm sure you're realizing that already as to your prior comments. I learned a valuable lesson today that all 1500 W heaters are STANDARD in the btu's they generate just like how everything else is STANDARD in the electrical 'world'.

Dave you mentioned about slimline breakers and my dad told me that what I need to understand is that there's only (1) wire going from the electrical box to the outlet. He says whatever slimline means you still have the issue of needing more than one outlet per line. Thank You for the suggestion however.

Stressbaby, thanks for your continued help and insight. Not much more I can say.

As to the benches, I've decided to go with 18" Wide by 36" long by 18" tall. I'm going to assemble them in a "U" shape having a little space left over. I'm speaking of the rigid plastic type of shelving kits you can purchase at home improvement stores.

Dave, Since it appears you're going to have to go to the trouble of installing a new electrical box and so on and so forth... You might consider having one of them pushing 120 Volts and the other at 240 Volts. You could save money on heating costs this way, the problem is and as I'm sure you realize, you can only plug the heater into your 240 volt outlet. Not to repeat myself, but no matter what you'll need a 120 volt outlet as well.

I think this about wraps it up (for me anyways) and I'd like to take the time to thank all of you who contributed information on this thread. I just got word that my replacement will be arriving a week from today (Tuesday the 11th of Oct) and I'll be sure to post some photos of it up when its complete.

Thanks again!
Dax

Well I'm new at greenhouses myself and also bought a Harbor Freight 6X8 model. It is going into a sheltered area between an enclosed porch and the workshop. This surrrounds it on 3 sides with heated house. Unfortunately the open side faces north, but what can I do. This is being done on a tight budget.

The structure is going in on gravel and will hopefully be assembled and secured by friday. Since the gravel is bounded by concrete or walls on all sides it should not go anywhere. I'll take some pictures of the building process and post the best ones. The underpinnings are pressure treated 2X6's so it had better not move or rot.

If nothing else I hope the HFGH will overwinter the houseplants while the porch is repaired. They don't seem to mind the northern exposure and now they'll get the added bonus of light from above.

Did anyone manage to completly figure out the instructions? I think I'm on the right track, but won't know till it is assembled.

Thanks for being an audience to my rambling.

What I keep wondering is, why doesn't someone take photos of their HFGH during construction and post them on webshots or photobucket with explanations...better yet, make a little HFGH website with good written instructions and photos.

I'll take photo's of construction...
Dax

Surprisingly, I was going to take pics during construction as I was doing a modification of the kits. But in the process I got so involved that I lost track of time and failed to take them. There are quite a few pics that people have posted in the previous Harbor Freight Thread. Check those out. They're very helpful.

Don't get too bogged down in the instructions. A lot of it is intuitive thought. And as Vamptoo said, and I agree with her, the second one is not NEARLY as much trouble to put up as the first. But, again, I really didn't find it all that difficult.

The biggest thing that I can reccomend is to make sure that you have all of your caulking or weatherstripping materials ready when you start. Also try to use at least a 2x10, 2x12 would be better, for the foundation. You'll appreciate the extra headroom later.

Just my 2 cents worth,

Dave
Milwaukee

I noticed on the other Harbor Freight thread photos were taken of construction. I'll try to expand on that with photos of each numbered piece.

Dax

I'm a new member of the club. I would love to make mine more heat efficent but I really dont want to build an inside plastic tent or cover the whole thing with plastic.

I was thinking silcone caulk...but someone mentioned weatherstriping. Can anyone expand on that for me ?

charlotte
upstate SC zone 7

Hi Charlotte,
I silicone caulked my entire greenhouse. I started a new thread posting photos of the assembly process. With the diagram on page 5 of the instructions and with the photos I took and the commentary, you and anyone should have a much easier idea of how this thing is put together.

Now, I live in zone 5 and only intend to use this greenhouse during the coldest months of the year so I caulked every little nook and cranny on this thing. On the same note, many folks have discovered that their Harbor Freight Greenhouse gets really hot in it and I think they might be having problems controlling this issue. Some have put screens in where panels go, etc.

I won't be using my greenhouse all that much when the potential for extreme heat is at hand so thats a consideration you should keep in mind.

I used no clips, none of the stuff those guys gave me...just lots and lots of silicone caulk.

There's of course a million ways to go about this thing so you'll need to suit it for your growing needs.

I hope my photos and instructions help those of you building this thing A LOT!!!

As many have commented on, these instructions are of the most poorly written and diagramed in existence. You practically need a degree in engineering AND A LOT OF LUCK to put this thing together right the first time around.

Good Luck!
Dax

P.s. This thing after I've seen it for my own eyes is worth every penny I paid. There's no question in my mind about it. Good Luck Again.

Here are a few photos of the shelving, floor, and door handles we built for our hfgh. We try to use recycled materials in all our building projects, so the shelving is made of recycled refrigerator shelves (24" wide), and the second set is made of recycled tent poles. We put two levels of shelving in, and put a walkway of recycled brick (many hours hacking off the mortar). If I can fit it in, I'll enclose a picture of our door handle (a recycled towel rack fixture.)
24" wide shelving
{{gwi:303529}}

18" wide tent pole shelving
{{gwi:303530}}

lower levels of shelves with brick walkway
{{gwi:289681}}

door handle
{{gwi:303531}}

Hope you enjoy the photos. Jim

Hello All;

Charlotte, If you're going to use this during the winter, even in zone 7, I'd stil add some insulating layers. Either bubble wrap on the inside or a pool cover on the outside. It will defnitely cut down on that heat loss.

Javan, those are some great ideas...especially the recycled tent poles and towel rack bracket...LOL

I've been adding some of the wire closet shelves to mine using the t-bolts made for a Juliana GH. That's been turning out great.

Dax is right about the heat gain. I have to plan some exterior shading. Currently I'm using some loose slats just to get some shade which is working well. But I'll have to come up with something a bit more permanent before next summer or I'll just end up with steamed veggies...LOL

Best to you all,
Dave
Milwaukee

I am pretty good with a caulk gun :)

I plan to NOT use mine during the hot part of summer....June - Aug or the coldest 2 months of winter Dec-Jan.

I would like to start things up in Feb though...if I can afford the heat costs.

I might be able to afford bubble wrap since I could buy it in smaller quantities...how do you install it on the inside - cut pieces slightly larger than the panels themselves ? and then attach it in some way ?

You could do that, and use double sided tape to attach it to the individual panels. I did that with reflectix on my north wall. Charley's has some clips to attach it to the tracks where the bolts are embedded. I'll be using those to attach my bubble wrap as it will help insulate the aluminum frame as well.

Or, you could use the double sided tape on the frame and attach it that way. But it would be a pain to remove in the spring and would probably destroy the wrap in the process.

Depends on how you want to go. maybe you should consider just shutting it down in the dead of winter for the first year and see how it heats itself.

Dave
Milwaukee

Oh yes Dave...I do intend to close the house during Dec and Jan and start up in early Feb -so I will only have about 1 month of really cold weather to contend with...I guess I need to go to Charleys and look at greenhouse stuff...I need to get an auto vent also..we have cold weather but it can get hot here also...even in the winter.

just a bump up.

{{gwi:303532}}

gotta try this once.

Dave

Well, I joined the club yesterday ... picked up my GH at a HF retail outlet 20 minutes away (cool place!); they were very pleasant and helpful and matched the online price for me (which I spent, and then some, on a pair of adirondack chairs, chipper/shredder and safety goggles and gloves). GH is sitting in its box, and I'm hopeful that assembly can begin this weekend. I'm studying all the pictures and messages in hopes of making the task go easier on my "construction crew" of husband and adult son.

Milwdave, I see you've set your gh on 2x10s set on edge. I'd like to do something similar, for the added headroom, but am not sure how you did that, since the instructions call for attaching the floor plate to a 1x1/2" board laid flat on a cement slab. From the drawings, it looks like if one attaches that plate directly to the 2x10, there will be a metal flange sticking out (which would otherwise be flush with the concrete floor they're talking about). I haven't even opened the box yet ... I don't DARE!, LOL ... maybe a lot will become more clear when we actually get to see the parts. Just hate to have to make additional trips to HD ... it's not even 10 minutes away, but husband works there so on his days off he tries to avoid having to spend any more time there than necessary :-)

Thanks in advance to all who have shared their experience and advice. Conifers, special thanks to you for taking the time to take those pictures and post them with the comments!

Diane

HI Diane,

Actually I used 2 x 12's as I wanted the most amount of headroom I could get without needing a ladder to get over the threshold of the greenhouse...LOL.

I constructed the GH in reverse (it's typical for me). I put together the frame on the patio, built a rough foundation next, placed the frame on the foundation, Then measured and cut to length the 1x1/2 boards and placed them between the foundation and the framework. That took care of the flange that you notice. The side with the door is the most important as it has to be without dips or bends.

Hope this makes things a little clearer. I think we need some technical writers in this group. LOL

Dave
Milwaukee

OK, Dave, lol, ... why did you build the GH on the patio first and build your foundation? Were you just impatient (as I am) or was there a practical reason?

No need for a tech writer - your explanation is very clear. Just one thing, though: looking at the drawing (and I realize that should be taken with a large grain of salt), it looks like that foundation plate is 2" wide ... and "2 by's" are no longer really two inches.

I'll throw this question out for anyone: Relaxing in my yard and looking at the fence around the vegetable garden I had a brainstorm ... those picket fence sections are white cedar "seconds" from a local fence place ... $12 for a 3x8 section. Measuring the horizontals, I see these sections could be trimmed back to make a shelf 21.5 inches deep (or an even 24" if desired). I've seen redwood-slat benches; would white cedar work? It is supposed to be insect and rot resistant, and the pickets are fairly closely spaced.

The reason I built the framework first is because I was building 2 kits as 1 frame. I wanted to be sure I got it right and got an accurate measurement for the foundation so there were no...ummmm...surprises. It worked well, BTW.

you could use the cedar but I'd still treat it with some preservative. I have cedar siding on my house and I'd NEVER use it again...LOL. Too much painting.

Dave
Milwaukee

I don't go for painting outdoors either; you're right about the work ... I'd rather spend that time in the garden! We have cedar shakes, but they're stained with a penetrating oil stain and don't need much attention. Used a tinted opaque stain for the porch railings - the thought of scraping, sanding and re-painting peeling trim was too much - it gives a nice carefree & long lasting finish, and except for the lack of high gloss of an exterior enamel (which I don't miss anyway), you'd never know.

Now I can see why you built the GH first. I'll let my construction crew decide which method to use.

Here's a some pic's
{{gwi:303533}} This is my guava plant.
{{gwi:303535}} This is my HFGH.
{{gwi:303536}} This is my Meyer Lemon.
{{gwi:303537}} Some Meyer Lemon flowers.
{{gwi:303538}} Fruit and flowers.
{{gwi:303539}} This is my kumquat.
{{gwi:303540}} And my date palm.
{{gwi:303541}} My aloe vera plant.
{{gwi:303542}} Kumquat cutting.
{{gwi:303543}} Aloe vera pups.
{{gwi:303544}}
Dragon fruit plant.
{{gwi:303545}}
Miracle fruit plant.
{{gwi:303546}} Pinnapple plant,about a month old cutting. {{gwi:303547}} Dragon fruit cuttings.
{{gwi:303548}} Sago palm. Mandrin orange fruit.

Prickly pear cactus 3/4 year old seedling.

Well...I got the caulking done but I need some good advice for sealing up the door and the vent window...I may need to be able to open this vent some...I think you guys used weather stripping? Can you give me some help with exactly what you used...where you put it and how it was attached ?

thanks
charlotte

I also purchased a DeLonghi heater, with a real thermastat :0). Much more energy effichant then my older one. I can actually control the temp all the way down to 45 deg. And it gose off if the temps go up. I can also set hi & lo temps as needed. Call your electric company to have them help U calculate the actual cost.

I insulated the floor & foundation down to 24" with 1" foam board. My solor pool cover will be here in the next few days.

I made self watering totes, (like earth boxes) & the added water acts as thermal mass.

I'm growing carrots, tomatoes, cukes, onions & lettuce! So far it's been a great learning experiance.

Definitely a learning experience, birdhope, and a very enjoyable one.

Weatherstripping - I applied it to the side panels this week, planned to caulk the roof panels, but really like the way the w.s. went on and works!

Insulation - found 1" foil-faced foam insulation at HD and installed on north wall and rear 1/3 of side walls (don't want to block morning or afternoon sun).

Solar pool cover question - It finally arrived and is (mostly) installed. It's large enough to "gift-wrap" the gh, so I have a question ... how does one vent the structure? Obviously, the roof vent won't open without slitting the pool cover, but that must cut down significantly on the effectiveness of the cover.

Heater question - still debating whether to get a forced hot air, convection or oil-filled radiator type. Somehow I'd expect the latter two to provide a more consistent and gentle heat, and be less drying than the first. Any comments? In the meantime, we've found a carefully-placed 500-watt worklight keeps the frost at bay. 30* outside last night and the inside temp was 41, with incomplete weatherstripping/caulking and no pool cover yet.

Benches - took a backseat to "winterizing" efforts, but one is partially complete and looks great. A local fence mfr. sells their seconds of 3x8 white cedar picket fencing for $12 apiece. Cutting the pickets back flush with the crosspieces yields a 22"x8' shelf.

Thermal mass - still painting the accumulated 2-liter soda bottles and 1-gallon milk jugs. (This is the one area in which my two younger children have been most helpful, being more than willing to empty as many soda bottles as I'd like.) I read somewhere that dark blue or red will absorb almost as much heat as black, but still reflect some useful light back to the plants ... will try some of each out of curiousity. Noticed also difference in soil temps in green pots vs. white pots (no big surprise, actually, just never thought about it).

Except for the impeded view due to the pool cover, it was delightful in there today.

Diane

Diane, would you post pictures of your benches on the discussion side of here? There is a thread started. Eventually it would be nice to have pictures of all kinds of GH stuff...

I'll be glad to, as soon as we've got one finished; I'll warn you, though, it's not as fancy as ednsue's red cedar-stained treated lumber beauty! I ran a search and found a few threads on benches, any preference which one I post to?

We're still focused on a few other issues just now. As if there weren't enough, we've now got to repair a large hole in the solar pool cover - looks to me like the dog got hold of the as yet unsecured rear corner. She loves to chew empty milk jugs and soda bottles ... looks like she got even with me for hijacking most of them to the greenhouse :-)

Over in "Conversations" under "Different Types of Benches" I've posted a message re the cedar bench we're building. The embedded image didn't work, but there's a link at the bottom of the message that will connect to the image.

While I'm here in HGFH2 ... I've been having trouble with the door coming slightly off the track - just enough to make it difficult or impossible to slide open (I got stuck in there last weekend ... decided to stop struggling with the dang thing and putter, as someone would surely come looking for me soon ... no one did ... LOL ... I finally got myself out, but now take my cell phone out there with me! Anyway, anyone else have this problem and maybe a solution? In the meantime, going over the directions again to see if we did something wrong/left something out.

Di

Hi Di,

Assuming that the door is constructed correctly (lousy instructions, I know), you might want to use silicone grease, not spray, on all surfaces that make contact during operation. Both upper and lower track.

Dave
Milwaukee