Check that the control cable is still anchored by its clamp near the carburetor. It is not unheard of for the little clamp to loosen (or fall off completely) which renders the cable "useless" to pull the throttle back to idle speed. If the cable is still secure near the carb, check the same thing on the upper end of cable near the control lever/knob on the dash. If not either of those, you may have lost a throttle return spring from your control linkage. Anything deeper than this stuff will require us knowing the exact brand engine and all its ID numbers.

The iron sleeve might be replaceable, but is it worth it? I wouldn't think so. It should hone up and last forever. Sometimes older motors aren't made anymore and you are referred to the newer engine, such as the 13.5 The mounting surface of most of the larger Briggs are exactly the same, so a wide range of HP will have the same crankshaft length and bolt mounting pattern. The differences might be where the throttle cable attaches or the location of the carb. Did you try Tulsa Engine warehouse for a short block? They are much cheaper and you can transfer your old stuff to the new shortblock. You might even find a used engine on ebay.

Okay guys, i REALLY appreciate the help. I'm new to lawn tractors (my first, and WAS so happy to have it, cuz .7acres with a 22" push is balls!) ... but help me out a little more, puh-lease! I think what ya'll are telling me is that the "mandrell" is probably shot? Check out this schematic: http://tinyurl.com/murrayparts What specifically are ya'll thinking? I hear bearings and i *know* that is in the mandrell ... it is $29.95 on that site, but this one here (http://tinyurl.com/altmandrell)has it for $17. SWEET. Looks like "mandrell", "blade housing" and "spindle assembly" are all terms for the same part, part 492574. Looking at that part, i can see how it would get fudged on impact. Reckon everything else is probably salvageable. Just nuts and bolts. No pun intended. Guess it probably woudn't hurt to just go order the spindle\jackshaft too, for another $10. From what i'm guessing it could be bent too. This looks like its a simple operation. Bolt unscrews on either end. Pull washers and spacers out, replace, reassemble? Put new blades on while i'm at it,too. huh? Thanks for all the tips and help. -Nick-

The basics would say to clean the battery cables on both ends and have the battery load tested- new or not. The solenoid needs a good ground as well. Your voltage readings at the solenoid- I assume the battery terminal? The trigger wire should have none until cranked.