I need help with my Lt 1000 as well the model number is 917 271920 not sure what year is it but my issue is that the axles won't spin when I put it in gear. It won't go forward or backwards it used to before I opened the transaxle to install the axle locks or whatever is called the ring that holds the axle in place and prevents it from sliding out. After I put everything back together it stopped working. There was this one washer that fell off when I first opened it and I had no idea where it belong and to be honest I do not know if I put it in the right place.

While the typical Craftsman owner assumes "LT2000" to be THE model number, that number is no help when seeking technical info. Basically, LT 2000 is useful on the sales floor only (as in "selling you a tractor"). Look under the seat for a decal which bears a 9 or 10 digit string of numerals. Usually it will begin with 917. Find that number, post it here, and help should arrive soon.

OK. Listen up people. In the 60s oils were developed for Jet aircraft which operated in the extreme cold (like -50) at 35000 + feet and yet could handle the extreme operating temperatures ( 300 + degrees ) generated by the jet turbine engine, basically a giant blowtorch. These are what we now know as "Synthetic" oil or hydraulic fluid. I live in Northern Canada where in the winter I have experienced -55 degrees F. and summer temperatures of 120F. Cold Temperatures such as this cause oil not to flow where needed, to seals and bearings and bushings, and to seize or wear out or just break or don't function. Synthetic fluid continues to flow at these extremely low temperatures, therefore the components are lubricated, do not dry up, and do not break. As well the load on your starter is less, quick start without overheating your electricals. Very high temperatures (+80) have a similar effect on normal oil by causing it to break down from the engine/system heat into it's constitute parts and thereby lose lubricity. Synthetic oils do not break down inl heat, again all the parts are lubricated and can withstand the loads on them. I know it is much more money to run Synthetic fluids, but the savings in time, Repairs, and frustration is worth it. Synthetic fluid costs more, but your change intervals are longer, therefore it works out to about the same. When you first use Synthetic you will find everything starts to loosen up and work much easier. It is important to choose the right Synthetic for each load application. Here in Canada, Toyota now uses only their Synthetic at about $5.00/ quart on their vehicles since their research proved that it worked better, and they had fewer service recalls. I change my Synthetic every three months, my hydraulic fluid once a year. At -40 my Kubota starts every time and runs better than the day I bought it used. If you can't afford to use Synthetic all the time, just replacing one quart in your engine with Synthetic will cause wonders. All the best, lubricate and save on repairs.

Well, I set off to replace my belts in this way. Undoing the engine bolt worked eventually, though I had to heat it up with a gas gun then hit the end with an impact wrench. Unfortunately that's where things fouled up. The pulleys were seized on. I tried a seriously strong puller, which only bent the pulleys out of shape. So - lateral thinking........ The things that are stopping the belts coming off are the keeps - two rods down the sides of the pulleys. It turns out that they are only held on by half-inch gripper nuts at the top, and are easily removed. Now the belts are free to drop off the pulleys. Further round the system there's a silver coloured link thing. Undo the bolt at the link end, then undo the nut holding the pulley. Shift the pulley out along its shaft so that the belt can clear the keep. There's a big spring in the way, but you can manoeuvre the the belt round it. That gets both front belts off and back on. I haven't tried to get the short belt at the back off, because it looks like you have to take the rear axle off. Bernie