tps, at least you learned some things that you can use to your advantage in the future. Products such as Seafoam are more intended to PREVENT the formation of new varnish than for trying to "scrub away" old, solid varnish. As you mentioned in your second post, you suspected the machine had been sitting in storage for a while. That will create the most stubborn kind of varnish. Seafoam can handle relatively fresh varnish/gum (which can obstruct fuel flow too). For the hardened and "cured" varnish, it typically requires products like the Berryman B-12 or other brands such as Carb Medic or Gumout (just to name a couple). For the "worst cases", a professional shop might even prefer to use a "dip bucket" cleaner such as "Berryman Chem-Dip" or the classic Solder Seal "Gunk Dip". You can still use the Seafoam as an additive to your fuel. Beware, if the "old" fuel lines are still in place on this machine, there's a chance that some particles/debris can continue to "slough off" and make their way to the filter. Also, if the lines leading from the filter>fuel pump>carb are old......any particles/debris shed from them will be transported right into the fuel pump and on to the carb. If a pieces of debris get caught between the needle valve and valve seat (carb inlet), there is a chance that blockage can occur or the needle valve can't control the fuel flow. You should replace at least the sections of fuel hose between the filter> pump> carb inlet to minimize the chances of that happening. The hose between the filter and fuel tank is probably ok for continued service (unless you see cracks in the hose surface) as the filter will trap the debris. If you want to "go all out" on the recovery process, replace ALL the fuel hoses AND remove the fuel tank for a good cleaning with the spray carb cleaner. This will get rid of any "flakes" or "sheets" of varnish that might be stuck to the interior surfaces of the tank.

It is a "pulse vacuum operated" fuel pump. It works because there is a hose connecting a diaphragm chamber in the pump body to the crankcase area of the engine (this could be a valve cover, the engine case itself, or a portion of the oil dipstick tube). The pressure inside the engine crankcase changes from a positive pressure to a negative pressure (vacuum) as the piston(s) move up & down. This "pressure pulse/vacuum pulse" cause the pump diaphragm to move in & out in its chamber and fuel pumping action takes place on the opposite side of the diaphragm. Oil is "spooging out" of the chamber atmospheric vent on the pump because the engine has (or had) a serious problem of excessive crankcase pressure which has likely damaged the diaphragm chamber and oil is now migrating up the pulse hose and out the fuel pump diaphragm chamber vent. ***"the mech at the JD Implement didnt call it a fuel pump"*** As a professional mechanic myself I would beg to ask "Who called that guy a mechanic?"

(1) Disconnect tank outlet line to check for a strong fuel flow. Loosen cap.Blow air through the inlet line into gas tank,if slow.(2) If OK, Install (solder) a brass hose fitting in a gallon metal can to make a temporary fuel tank.Put ths 'tank' on top of tractor,and run a fuel line from it to the carb inlet.Add about a qt of fuel.Run engine.This can help pinpoint the problem area,if a fuel delivery problem.

please help. have john deere lt133 . gas in oil. i put on new fuel pump. i bought new carb. sick of changing oil with gas in it. have fire flame coming out of muffler when shut off. it doesnt want to shut off . sick of wasting money please help.it lacks power when in use but it does mow. somebody said gas shut off(so i installed) but dont make sense if it has fuel pump. then after i turn it off white smoke comes off engine.