I would the spark plug, if its the wrong plug then the engine might just be dumping fuel into the cylinder therefor flooding it.I would take out the plug and check your engine's manual to see if its the right plug and has the correct gap. Please tell us what kind of engine u have. MY dad just recently got a LT160 and I love the thing John deere make the best tractors!

i have a jd stx46 it will crank but will not start I have put a new solenoid on a new carb on a new ignition module on checked flywheel for sheared jetway installed new sparkplug have brand new battery fully charged have tried starting with parking brake on and seat safety switch depressed even tried with safety switches bypassed yesterday I pulled the valve cover tirned the motor by hand observing valve operation removed spark plug got piston on compression stoke at top dead center did not measure valve lash but there was enough play to wiggle rocker arms have not done a compression check going to town to get a compression tester try again any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Oh boy! You may be "inna heap o' trouble". This is a shining example of OEM placing the cost savings burden on the consumer. This pulley may be doomed for destruction in the removal process. The best type of puller you could use on this pulley, would be either a "T-bar puller" or a similar "steering wheel puller". These two types of puller have a heavy central "bar" that has a threaded center hole and slots, or holes, for "connecting" to the pulley using two long puller bolts. A long "jack bolt" threads into the central threaded hub. Using this type puller requires that there be two holes in the pulley near to the center of the pulley for the two anchor bolts to attach to the pulley. You will have to drill two holes in the pulley to attach the puller bolts to the pulley. The bolts need to align across from each other along a straight line that runs through the center of the crankshaft. This process is going to have you under the raised tractor, so be very cautious about how you support the tractor. Mark a straight line across the lower face of the pulley, center the line on the exact center of the crankshaft. Draw the line with a permanent marker. You will be using a bolt diameter of 5/16". Find the edge of the inside diameter of the pulley (this is where the pulley fits to the crankshaft). Measure outward from this edge exactly 5/8" and make a mark across the centerline you drew previously. Do the same on the opposite side of pulley face. The two places you marked across the centerline are where you need to drill a 5/16" inch hole. With the holes drilled, attach the T-bar puller to the pulley by inserting an appropriate length, 5/16" bolt through the puller hole in the pulley. Thread 5/16" nuts onto the bolts where the bolts emerge from the backside of the pulley. Do the same to the other hole in pulley. Adjust the two puller bolts until the T-bar is level on both sides. Thread the central jack bolt into the bar. Tighten the jack bolt, use washers across the crankshaft to protect the crank threads and to center the puller. Oil the threads of the puller. Tighten the jack bolt to remove the pulley. Using this technique may save your pulley. If you don't understand what I am saying, let me know and I'll draw you a picture.

Stator voltage needs to be @ 24v AC or greater. 316's are notorious for corroded connections. It's very possible that your stator and regulator are good, but the voltage isn't making it back to the battery. Check the fuse holders as well. I'd bet you've got bad connections and voltage drops / resistance causing your problems. Some folks can't handle things like that, thus the "nagging" problem comment. Those can be over the head of the average parts replacer. A voltage drop to the Time Delay Control (TDC) can cause the battery light to come on. You'll need a schematic to make sense of what's going into and out of it. Good luck! A 316 is a great tractor, just needs some TLC.