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is this a second leader? should i cut? (pic enclosed)

12 years ago

the japanese maple branch that starts the lowest on the tree, if you follow it up to the top, it is seeming to me like a second leader. do you agree, and if so, should i cut it at the base?

if i do cut at base, what will happen to the little side branches down low that haven't grown much because all the energy went to the second leader. will they grow out? or stall small? what will look best/be best for tree?

thanks much!!!

{{gwi:325713}}

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Comments (5)

whaas_5a
12 years ago
Need another pic from a different angle, but yes there might be a leader you want to cut back and slowly take out completely. It not all that important with JMs though. Unless its a very large vigorous growing one or you want to do this for branching aesthetics.

{{gwi:325714}}
wisconsitom
12 years ago
Johndoug, yes, that branch to our right in the pic is showing some signs of wanting to be a secondary leader. Just head it back to an outward-pointing branchlet. This will slow it down and make it behave more as a branch. This is called subordination pruning, and is used daily by pro arborists to help young trees maintain one central leader longer into their lives.

Being a Jap.maple, such considerations are of lesser importance than say, a young Autumn Blaze maple that is going to be 80 feet tall some day. But the same technique still suffices.

+oM
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From what I can see, I wouldn't, but of course you have to live with the tree. I don't see any aesthetic drawbacks to doing what I suggested because the two branches we're talking about will emerge so close to the main leader that they will 'read' as originating from the main leader. I have several maples in the landscape and a couple of dozen in containers. I prune healthy trees any time I feel like it - usually with a purpose/plan, but with no regard to 'bleeding'. I recommend late dormancy pruning for two reasons. Branches that need pruning and o/a form are much more visible - the future growth habit of the tree more readily discernible, and the chance of disease spread is reduced greatly. The healing of any pruning wounds is more rapid in spring/early summer than at any other period in the growth cycle, so for me, that clinches the case for late winter/early spring pruning. I've never seen a case documented where 'bleeding' affected the long or short term vitality of an Acer, much less a documented case of a tree 'bleeding to death'. I often suggest that if the sap flow is a concern - wait until the tree appears to be resting after the spring growth flush has matured. There should be very little bleeding then. You can also make a case for late dormant pruning from an energy management perspective. What sense does it make to prune the growth off immediately after the tree has spent nearly all its energy reserves to build it. If you prune BEFORE budswell, the tree will move energy from the roots into the remaining organs and not the parts you intend to remove. Al
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Unless I am missing something, I don't see a second leader.....unless you mean that low branch off to the right. I wouldn't consider that a "leader" and at any rate, Japanese maples do not really have distinct leaders unless specifically trained to, as some weeping forms are. Once they start maturing and branching well, they seldom develop a 'leader' other than whatever trunk structure they may have. Removing anything that may be a considered a leader at this young age is unnecessary unless it has developed an uncomfortably tight crotch angle. If it is that lower branch you are referring to, removal is up to you. Personally I'd let it go for awhile to see how it develops - depending on your specific aesthetic, low branching on JM's is often considered a desirable trait. As to the ID, that leaf is very heavily dissected yet good sized. I'd guess Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium' or the fernleaf fullmoon maple, an extremely desirable selection :-) What does the fall color look like? If Aconitifolium, it will be on the smallish end of the scale, growing slowly to about 15', give or take. And Japanese maples do not develop invasive root systems - your retaining wall should be fine.
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should I just leave them alone and grow natural? ==>>> imo.. yes .. a pic or two might help us see if there is apparently anything wrong ... i dont know if you watering protocol is sufficient..because it dont know your soil ... without the pic.. i am torn about whether you should reduce to one leader ... if you goal at planting was a sight block.. multiple leaders wouldnt necessarily be bad ... ken
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brandon7 TN_zone7
12 years ago
I can't tell what I would do from only that one picture. If one leader needs to be removed, I would (at least eventually) remove it completely (as whaas already described).
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
you need to take one of the top two leaders ... and maybe that one little wisp on the lower one .. that is curving back toward the center... even with the side of the neighbors garage way back there ... on the second pic

then you need to define your goal with the rest of the tree ...

i like to walk and drive under my trees.. and they are all pruned to at least 6 feet.. so i would take out the lower also ...

but before you do any of that.. how long has it been there.. we dont heavily prune.. trees within the first year or two of planting..

whats your goal man????

do you have a proper mulch ring around it???

ken
wisconsitom
12 years ago
Nay I say. It's just a runty little JM. Need not be handled the same way as my example above, of a large-growing shade tree. It's only ever going to have a low crown.

I don't raise up flowering crabs to the same extent as Autumn Blaze maples, to beat that horse again.

This is also exactly the same rational for heading back (To a branchlet) rather than complete removal. Again, it's only going to have low branches....ever.

+oM

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