Using City Compost For Vegetable Gardens
tenbabytoes
16 years ago
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crabjoe
16 years agoRelated Discussions
What is the best kind of compost to use in my vegetable garden?
Comments (5)Are you talking about straight manure or compost with manure added to it (aka manured compost)? Or plain compost which is any organic materials without manure added? Straight manure is great IF it has been age/stockpiled for 60-90 days first. Fresh manure from any animal isn't recommended for the food garden. If you are going to apply fresh then the recommendation is that it be applied 90-120 days prior to planting. Manured compost - a mix of all sorts of organic materials such as hay, straw, bedding, table scraps, etc. plus some manure is also great stuff IF the manure isn't fresh. And plain compost - quality depends on what all was added to make it - is also beneficial but not as high in nutrients. Does wonders for the soil tilth but it takes time for it to supply nutrients to the plants. Keep in mind that all compost requires time for an active soil bacteria herd to develop. The micro-herd is required in order to convert the compost to useable nutrients for the plants. So the first year you will have to supplement the nutrients with other organic or non-organic nutrients. You'll find many more discussions about this all over on the Soil & Compost forum here so be sure to check it out. Do I just mix it with some topsoil? I'm trying to do it organically. Well you mix it in with soil. Ratios vary from 1/3 to 1/2 compost and the rest soil. Whether or not you use topsoil all depends on its quality. Lots of things are call 'topsoil' and some of them do NOT belong in a garden so get the best quality dirt you can afford. Good luck with your new garden. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Soil & Compost forum...See MoreWhat Compost for my first vegetable garden.
Comments (11)Here is a little info on it. Thanks everyone for the rapid replies, I was a convinced at first it was good stuff but now I am a little woried. BioComp BioComp®, a Class I quality compost, is a stabilized organic material that can be used with all plant types and in any type of soil (sandy to clay). This compost (screened 3/8 inch minus) greatly enhances overall soil structure and improves movement of air and water within the soil  essential to healthy plant growth. When salts are a critical design factor, BioComp® is the compost of choice. Low salts also mean that you can safely double the amount of compost used and still have vigorous plant growth. Salt in BioComp® are primarily from nutrient salts and not sodium chloride, as indicated by an ag index greater than 10. BioComp® is listed by the Colorado Department of Agriculture as an amendment approved for use on Organically Certified Crops. Independent testing by Colorado State University confirm that BioComp® safely provides higher levels of nutrients. Application Rates: As a Top Dressing  BioComp® can be used as a top dressing, however the large particles limit its use to where grass is mowed high.  1/4" to 3/8 (1 to 2 CY/1000 sq ft) As a Soil Amendment  BioComp® can be used at any time of the year, in any type of soil. It is especially well suited for use in clay soils where it can be used at twice the normal application rate.  3 CY/1000 sq ft or 1" Deep  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Deep As a Mulch This is one of the few composts that can be safely used an a mulch. It can be used for the protection of flower beds, especially perennials and sensitive root crops.  6 CY/1000 sq ft or 2" Inches Deep  12 CY/1000 sq ft or 4" Inches Deep (Fall application only. Till in the spring.) This compost product has been sampled and tested as required by the Seal of Testing Assurance Program of the United States Composting Council (USCC). Test results are available upon request by calling A1 Organics at 970-454-3492. Class I Compost...See MoreCompost manure amount for vegetable garden
Comments (5)10CY sounds about right as a soil amendment. As fertilizer, you need a lot less, perhaps 0.5-0.8 CY. Bought at a garden center, it will cost a fortune. But - you don't need to add it in one year - you can dilute the manure cost with some heavy wood chip mulch (plus some nitrogen). The wood chips will eventually compost, and they should be free of charge if you contact a tree company and ask them to bring you a load. - you can further dilute it by collecting bags of dead leaves and yard clippings in your neighborhood. Discard only the bags with grass clippings treated with pesticides. All the mulch that you pile this year is compost you don't have to buy next year. You still have to get 10CY of organic material eventually. See if some dairy or horse stable will deliver manure to you, and load up on dead leaves this october....See MoreUnfinished Compost on my Vegetable Garden
Comments (12)First...I looked up Abbotsford and you are in the same relative weather area as I am here in Western Oregon. In the interest of full disclosure I have ONLY been gardening for 8 years and I am giving my opinions based on that experience, reading and NOT scientific evidence. How long have you been gardening? It looks like from the photo you will be having to deal with the grasses that border the compost. Was the compost spread over dormant grasses? How long has this been fallow? Here is my advice. In the next couple of weeks we should have a "drying period." Watch the forecast, and at the end of that time work this into the soil. If it is on top of grasses, I would just disk it in. I think if it is on sod, it would be difficult to till and might just spread the grasses. If there is no sod...go ahead and deep till it in and plan to till it a couple of more times before planting (weather permitting). To me, you are one year away form effective gardening on this. Mother Nature will not be rushed, but rather loves smooth steady attention Good Luck PS. Go to your GW profile and update your location and zone and then it will appear in future posts (that is essential to get quality responses)...See Morejoepyeweed
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