Need help with soil test recommendations

10 years ago

For years I've been amending my beds with compost, alfalfa pellets, sbm, cm, chopped leaves, etc. and last years soil tests showed nice 14% organic matter.

It also said I needed to add N, K & P in one bed and only N & K in another. As I only use organics, how can I best follow the advice of the testing without going the 10-10-10 route.

I had the testing done because while spring growth of trees, shrubs and perennials was lush and beautiful, all would look tired and stressed by late summer. Lawn is also treated only using the above and is great all year ~ no weeds ~ really beautiful. wish I could say the same about the beds.

What should I use to bring up the levels found deficient by the testing Thanks.

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Comments (3)

Kimmsr
10 years ago
What to use depends on what, if anything, might be needed. Many times a soil test report will recommend spreading 2 pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000 square feet and if you think about it that is not much and is most likely unnecessary and nothing organic is needed either.
Plants, as a rule, will not look as fresh and perky in late summer as they do in the spring, so what you are seeing most likely is simply normal wear and tear.
So, what is the soils pH?
What are the levels of P, K, Ca, and Mg and are they in balance?
14 percent organic matter is getting a bit high, 6 to 8 percent is good.
lincann
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks, Kimmsr ~ here are results from two worst areas

Front bed - small tree, shrubs, perennials, annuals
5 years old - full sun

Soil pH: 7.1
P: 15 ppm
K: 45 ppm
Ca: 1,472 ppm
Mg: 140 ppm
Organic matter: 14.2%
Suggested: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq. ft. 4 times per year,
1/2 lb P in spring and again fall, and 5 lbs K - most in fall and rest thru growing season.

Back bed - small tree, shrubs, perennials, annuals
40 years old - part sun

Soil pH: 7.0
P: 167 ppm
K: 187 ppm
Ca: 2,656 ppm
Mg: 402 ppm
Organic matter 13.9%
Suggested: 1 lb nitrogen per 1,000 sq ft 4 times year , no P and 2 lbs K - most in fall and rest over growing season.

Don't believe 'end of summer' is the problem here as leaves often turn pale green and growth wanes through summer. Some easy plants have died altogether ~ Shasta daisies and larkspur. Years ago I used to use 10-10-10 liberally as well as other chemical fertilizers and all looked good ~ maybe why today's P levels are so high and skewed.
So, as I remember, calcium binds to iron making it unavailable to the plant and resulting in pale leaves and light veins . With such high calcium levels showing up in the tests, I'm wondering if this is part of the problem. I'm thinking of adding Epsom salts (or other potassium source) to help boost the P levels and bring the calcium to iron ratio into better balance. Does that sound right?
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You can do either. If you have a good amount of rain coming this week, I would lime first. Most soil lab fertilizer recommendations aren't very good. They are very general, the computer just spits them out. When you fertilize use enough to apply 1 lb of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. For most of your apps half quick release, half slow release is recommended (you can use Milorganite as a slow release if you want). If you are overseeding I would apply half an app of starter at seeding, the other half after you mow the new grass 2 or 3 times. So let's say you overseed on Sept. 1. Apply half an app of starter at seeding time and the other half will be in about a month or so. Then in late October a full app, you can use the starter if you want or regular 50:50 fertilizer. Then in late November/early December when topgrowth has stopped, but the ground isn't frozen a full app of all quick release nitrogen (urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate). Make sure to always water in synthetic fertilizers to avoid burn.
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What is the level of organic matter in your soil? Did the lab not make any recommendation to fix that low soil pH? How much Nitrogen appears in any soil sample depends on the temperture of the soil when that soil is sampled and that determines the activity of the Soil Food Web which is what determines the level of available N which is what is tested. So testing for N when the SFW is not very active is not a good indication of what the available N will be when the soil is much warmer. Phosphorus, the P in fertilizer labeling, is needed by plants for proper growth and a deficiency can be seen if the plants develop purpleish streaks, slow growth, failing to set seeds, just a general lack of vigor. There is some evidence that a low soil pH (yours should be in the 6.2 to 6.8 range) can prevent a plant from using many essential nutrients including P. Appropriate levels of organic matter in the soil are also needed since that is what the Soil Food Web feeds on and they feed your plants what they need when they need those nutrients.
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Hello, I don't know what is is the Espoma product, but I'm guessing the "combined sulfur" is a salt such as gypsum (calcium sulfate) which has no significant effect on soil pH. The elemental sulfur is 18%, or about 1/5 as acidifying as nearly pure sulfur (labeled garden sulfur, wettable sulfur, or micronized sulfur). Ag extension is recommending a conservative approach with multiple small applications per season, because large sudden changes in soil chemistry can be harmful. Also, sandy soil changes pH easier than heavy soil. It seems that something like 15 cups of the Espoma product per 100 sq. feet would lower pH to an appropriate level, but it would be safer not to apply it all at once. Note, sulfur applied in the fall will not start acting until the soil warms substantially in spring. For the full effect on pH you need several months of warm weather. Next time I would buy straight sulfur, as you do not need the extra calcium or whatever is in the Espoma product. About the rest of your soil test, it appears you have nutrient-retentive soil and have been fertilizing heavily. It may be you should be applying nitrogen in moderate amounts and nothing else for a while. Excessive P, K, Mg, and Fe can interfere with uptake of other nutrients. Do not apply iron supplements even if your plants show iron deficiency. You have a lifetime supply of P and Fe. Eastern sandy soils are usually acid-- is the high pH the result of liming? If the natural tendency is acid, the more reason to be cautious with the sulfur.
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Kimmsr
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The soil pH is good, optimal for most all plants is in the 6.2 to 6.8 range, and that means that the soils level of Calcium is good and in balance with the Magnesium.
While many think chlorosis, yellowing of plant leaves, is the result of an iron deficiency there are numerous causes ranging from nutrient imbalance to mechanical injury of plants.
One or two pounds of any nutrient spread over 1,000 square feet is a fairly minimal amount although 5 pounds might be something worthwhile to consider.

Here is a link that might be useful: causes of chlorosis

Need help with soil test recommendations

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Kimmsr

lincann
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Need help with soil test recommendations

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Kimmsr

lincannOriginal Author

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lincann
Original Author