The left tension pulley on my LT 1045 Cub Cadet was about 1/2 inch to low and at an angle that took it out of a horizonal plane with the ajacent pullys. Took deck off and removed the bracket that holds both tension pullys. Put the defective pulley in a metal vise and hammered it so that its angle when reinstalled was parralell to the ajacent pullys. This solved the problem. I called Cub Cadet and spoke with the technical representative and he told me that the bracket I had to bend was bent out of shape because I, as many people do, engaged the electric pto to the blades while the deck was in level 3 to mow. He told me to put the deck in its highest position before engaging the pto to engage the blades. This alleviates the stress on the Kevlar belt that is trying to come up to 3600 rpm while in the grass before they start to rotate. This can eventually bend the bracket that holds the tension pulleys. He said he is trying to tell the company to include this in the owners manual.

With all of the questionable reviews I bought the LT1046 last week. I mow a little less than a 1/2 acre which I know is small but I was tired of pushing in the heat and wanted to get attachments such as an aerator and dethatcher. I have been very pleased with my tractor and am pleased at how much time I save mowing which gives me more time for trimming and edging. My dad came by to test it out and he is a murray man and he commented on how smooth the mower was in comparision to his but did note that it was a little on the slow side for his liking.

Manufacturers seem to go back and forth on whether or not they should paint blades- both on new equipment and as service parts. People see a heavily painted edge and feel the blade isn't sharp enough. So they decide not to paint them and sometimes drop them in a bath of protectorant at best which doesn't seem to consistantly keep them from rusting. So the answer is: based solely on blade rust you shouldn't assume the machine has been hanging around for a while. If the finish looks good and your otherwise happy with the mower say no more.

Here is what you have proved so far: Fuel system. The non-running state of the engine IS NOT because "the engine is not getting fuel". The shots of carburetor cleaner you administered IS FUEL, and if the non-run was due to a problem in the fuel system of the engine, the engine would have responded to the presence of the carb cleaner "fuel" by eagerly running........for about 1 or 2 seconds for each shot of carb cleaner. Since the engine remains unresponsive even when given an alternate fuel source (carb cleaner shots), lack of fuel can be discounted. Cross fuel off the list. Ignition system. You have stated a couple of times that you believe the ignition system is producing spark. The bang that nearly deafened you (soiled BVDs?) proves that you at least had one instance of spark. So, we might want to presume (for the moment) that the ignition system is OK. Disconnecting the kill wire from the magneto eliminated the possibility that chewed or bare wires were stopping the production of spark. Place a question mark or 2 beside "Ignition system" on your list. You have indicated that you feel little or no compression when you place a thumb over the spark plug hole and turn the engine by hand. Do this. (you might need a helper) Move the spark plug wire as far away from the spark plug hole and place your thumb over the spark plug hole. Spin the engine using the starter. There should be enough compression that it takes a bit of effort to keep your thumb held over the hole. If you do not feel the compression trying to push your thumb off the hole.........the engine is not making or holding enough compression to run. If this is what you find, it is time to decide if you want to go further, or whether you would even be able to go further depending on how well equipped you are to perform a cylinder leakage test. Read and study the Kohler service manual page 3.4 about the cylinder leakdown test. Though the Kohler leakdown tester kit is nice, you really don't need that much capability. But you will need a source of compressed air, an adapter fitting for the spark plug hole to mate the compressed air hose to the engine cylinder head, and you must have socket wrenches large enough to fit the flywheel retention nut so the engine cannot move when the compressed air is applied to the engine. If you qualify in regard to the above, and feel confident/mechanically competent enough to do a cylinder leakage test, then you can do one to see why the engine has insufficient compression. E-mail me for a copy of my description of how to do a "poor boy's leakdown test". The poor boy's test still requires the above tools and compressed air, so if you do not have (or can borrow) those, you do not qualify for a DIY leakdown test. Place a "frowny face" next to "Compression" on your list and choose a professional small engine shop for further testing.