Unfortunately I do not know saw prices off hand to give specific recommendations for questions 1 and 2. The recommendations I usually give are a Stihl or Husqvarna because dealer support is usually more readily available for the HO. After that I'll recommend a larger heavier or lighter saw depending on needs. Since firewood is involved, the larger the saw the better for the most part in these price ranges. I like the oaks for bang for buck splitting. Poplars are light and easy, but don't burn as long as the denser woods. I don't have experience with alot of other varieties.

I was able with the help of an Oregon rep locate the part number for the 3/8th drum that will fit the 076. I also found the rim sprockets. I also ordered a bar that was for sale at 30 dollars ( at this price even without sprocket tip it was a good deal) it will run .404 or 3/8th pitch and is .063 that was a 20-inch bar. Not having a sprocket tip will add drag. With the 076 that should not be a problem. I can use this with the Grandburg small log mill. One reason I wanted to go with the 3/8th pitch is the availability of the bars and chains under 30 inches, and the cost of a .404 bar is always over 150 dollars or more. In addition, I want to use the bar Granberg sells 3/8 pitch tip with a .063 chain. It has a sprocket tip, and not laminated which Granberg does not suggest on the small mill since the mill uses two bolts to hold the bar. The problem I have with changing gauges is the climb or dive cuts you get not having the exact chain size for the grooved of the bar. If I have any problem with chainsaw milling it is the climb and dive cuts that ruin the board. I just had that problem with a .058 chain in a .063 bar, and just got terrible cuts to a point the mill just stops cutting. Just that small difference in chain gauge creating real trouble. I inserted the .063 and cut fine. Your post seems to say you can use either gauge on a .404 bar. Do I have that correct? You don't have any problems?

With the benefit of an hour or so spare this weekend, I stripped down the chainsaw to see if I could find out what was wrong. I removed the bar from the saw body and gave the area around the clutch and chain drive a good cleaning to get all the oiled up sawdust out of it. I then removed the exhaust from the cylinder head and removed the spark arrestor from the exhaust muffler and gave it a gentle clean with a wire brush although the mesh wasn't too caked in carbon to begin with. I then removed the carb from the cylinder head while leaving all the gas lines/primer bulb attached and gave it a good blow out with the compressed air line. I did destroy the gasket between the carb and the cylinder head and remade one from gasket card using an exacto knife. For good measure I threw in a new .325 chain from Home Depot (the original chain is still on the saw after 10+ years!) and put it all back together. Hey presto, it started second pull and runs and cuts like a dream again. Can't say I know for sure what fixed it, but my first recommendation would be to blow out the carb with compressed air.

1. It sounds as if the dragging might have disturbed some trash in the carb. How often do you cleaned the carb or is it as needed from performance. Sawdust usually ends up in the fuel tank. If you tried to start it while the filter was off, it could have sawdust in the carb. 2. I can not remember if there is a fine fuel screen in the carb but it would be quick and easy to see. Plus, you could rem your adjustment screws and use fine wire and compressed carb cleaner to flush and verify âÂÂALLâ the ports in the carb are open. 3. What are the carbâÂÂs adjustment turns on your carb mixture screws? 4. The pic attach is of a 70s Poulan S25 that were also sold as Craftsman. 5. I can send a post showing the fine screen inside a carb if you are interested. Do you or others know if the fine screen is in your carb? 6. If the spark arrester is clogged. I hope it was shared that heating it with a lighter Etc will char the carbon and brush off easy.