interesting d-d.... As a potential client, I wouldn't care about having all those details written out, although I can see why you might want them in writing in case of disputes. We had a rough time line for the house renovation/addition but it was not written into the contract. We had a desired completion date but it was not a hard-and-fast thing because we were all well aware that things never go quite as planned and our desired completion date was somewhat(!) unrealistic (and in fact completion happened 6 weeks later than we had hoped.) There was no time-line/phases written into the contract with the architect either. I found verbal discussion (supplemented with e-mails with the architect...) was sufficient for both sides to understand what was going to happen and when. The relevant issue that I would be looking at if that quote was provided to me is the total cost and a target date for completion. The ultimate question would be whether I thought that it was worth paying that price for your particular skills and experience or whether I thought I could use a less experienced/less expensive designer and still get an acceptable design. The details in that quote aren't going to have much of an impact on that decision. Reviewing your portfolio, checking references, seeing examples of your previous work - in person perhaps - are the things that would help me make that decision. How you present your fees (or what goes into that $125/hr.) is of less importance than how you present yourself (i.e. are we compatable/am I comfortable that you understand and can deliver on what I'm trying to achieve...) and how your previous work presents itself are much bigger factors.

I started tomatoes via wintersowing, in a low tunnel-type structure (an upside down, child-height folding table with 6mil plastic over it...the legs of the table holding the plastic up, and then the rest of the plastic tucked under the table), in windowsills, and under lights. At this point, the ones from the windowsills are bigger, sturdier, and leafiest. Of the ones I've hardened off and moved outdoors, one of the windowsill plants is setting blossoms already. (And it really, really shouldn't be this early, but the temps went from freezing to hot here really quickly.) Not that I think anyone has enough windowsills to start 1000 plants, but figured I'd at least chime in with my experience. The ones from the low tunnel-structure and the wintersown ones are running about the same...on the small side. (I did not pre-sprout the low tunnel ones as you mentioned you might do.) The ones grown under lights are about in the middle.

I think the kitchen could probably use more, but I don't exactly agree, not based on the lighting courses I have taken. The three cans are in front of the prep island so their beam spread will shine on the countertop of the prep island and part of the sink island unless you use a very narrow beam spread, which there is no reason to. There is usually no reason to have the can immediately over head particularly on perimeter counters where it creates visual hotspots on the fronts of the upper cabinets. (But these cabinets should also have undercabinet lighting). Islands yes, I agree should have lighting overhead, probably centered down the middle, but that's not the only way to light a kitchen adequately. I will generally aim for a perfect grid of cans as a primary pattern to create even lighting throughout the entire room. The surest way to have a shadow is to aim the beam right at the top of the person's head.

I'm so sorry, I typed the below up last night and forgot to click Submit! LOL *********** What are you growing in the greenhouse in winter? Does it require a specific temperature or just to prevent freezing or winter cold damage? @gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9), it's mostly plants that wouldn't survive my winter, but I don't have room for in the house: dracaena grasses, Tradescantia zebrina (formerly known as Wandering Jew), cordyline (which would survive but doesn't come back until July or August), etc. But I also have Blue Java banana trees that I'm hoping to actually get to fruit (minimum 65), and I start my hot peppers in January so that I'll have fruit by September (minimum 60). Greenhouses can fit in anywhere, especially on good sized suburban and rural properties. You want to site them where they receive maximum sunlight, are convenient to any utilities and where you have easy access. For them not to stand out, they just need to be given some context with plants and hardscaping and not to have them appear as an afterthought. Shipping containers seem even more outrageous than an ill-placed greenhouse (if it is ill-placed) and would not be something I'd consider appropriate to a garden. I have 5 acres of land, with about 3/4 of an acre of it cleared and the rest is wild woods. My house is near the back Western corner, so I only have about 30' of woods to the East and North, with the rest of the woods to the West. You can see the greenhouse here: I already had a breaker box nearby, so I was able to run heat to it for pretty cheap. The front and Western side of the house are the only full sun areas; if I go to the back then it becomes full shade, and I don't have a lot of room before getting to the edge of my property. If I did the storage containers then I wouldn't have those limitations. My dad passed recently and I'm supposed to get his tractor, which means that I'll have the ability to dig a hole myself and then drag the containers in and cover them up. In theory, if grow lights would be enough then I could put them in a small clearing in the woods for virtually free, and all I would need to invest is more wire from the breaker box. What are the walls currently made of/constructed? @beesneeds, this is the greenhouse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0851K3SGB/ The customer service from the company has been great, but it has a few flaws that make it pretty inefficient for heat: the cover only straps down on the front and back, so wind can come under the sides and then lift the middle! I've gone out a few times and seen more than a 1' gap at the bottom :-O I've lined it with cinder blocks now to hold it down, but it's still not air tight or anything. I think that you had mentioned some of those things before (someone did, anyway), and I've started that direction as time allows. But when I realized that I had these two shipping containers available, it hit me that I might have a better option for cheaper. But if grow lights will still come up short, like @gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9) said, then it might end up being a lot of work for nothing :-/