It started out as just a few leaves, but now most of them are like this. I'm not exactly sure, but I do think that it started on the outer edges of the leaves and has worked inward. I have not sprayed the trees with anything and they did not look like this when I bought them. It's possible that I've overfertilized... Really, with me, any mistake is possible.

Find another nursery :-) Apple scab is not well controlled (if at all) by dormant sprays. It needs a fungicide applied during the time weather conditions are conducive to its development, generally during mild, wet springs but avoiding when the blossoms are present. At this time of year, the best you can do is practice the proper garden sanitation as jean suggests. There is no such thing as a "disease free" plant and even more so with most fruit trees. That is like saying there are disease free humans.........:-) There are fruit varieties that tend to be more disease resistant than others but problems can still occur. Keeping plants in the best cultural health can help but it is even more important to get ones well-suited to your location. Not all fruit tree varieties work equally well in all areas. And I have never heard of a nursery that would guarantee its plants against any sort of diseases or refund those that may contract a disease down the road - s**t happens and nurseries have no control over that! Check with your local extension service for what fruit tree varieties are best for your area. And then double check those against listed as disease resistant. I've attached an apple scab link for review. FWIW, scab is not usually a huge problem. While it can affect the appearance of the fruit, any blemishes are typically only on the surface and do not affect the fruit itself. It is more troublesome to the foliage, as a severe infestation can promote early leaf drop and repeated years of this can seriously weaken the tree. Gravenstein is my favorite home orchard apple variety and it is extremely prone to scab. I never sprayed my tree and it had only minimal early leaf drop and the fruit was perfectly edible. It is quite possible to grow fruit organically (without spraying) if you select the correct cultivars, tolerate some imperfection and maintain your garden tidily. Here is a link that might be useful: IPM for apple scab

A lotta photos showing a lotta of pretty common issues on neglected apples! And unfortunately not of the best quality to really nail things down but I don't really see anything that pops out as fire blight. I do see signs of anthracnose and bacterial canker, however. Depending on how advanced they are and where they appear on the trees, they may or may not be easily treatable. The orange "rot" looks to me like the bark is missing from that portion of the tree, possibly by rabbits or voles or other hungry bark eating critter. If that is the case, that tree is toast. Just get rid of it.

second pic... why are all those leaves off the tree??? did they fall off due to transplant stress??? .. did you plant it fully leafed out ... how are you watering.. and how are you verifying there is sufficient water at root depth ... was the tree potted when you got it ... did you bare root it ... or did you plant the whole gob of potting media ?? .. what is your native soil ... and does it properly drain??? i hope you didnt pick them off because you thought there was a problem ... every leaf is a food making machine.. to grow the roots.. to get your new tree established ... so its usually best to leave all the leaves on ... even if slightly damaged.. they can still process sunshine into food ... btw.. its stressed.. fert is not a proper response at this time.... frankly.. it still looks pretty good.. just perfect watering .. and hope for the best .. and try not to love it to death ... if you move it right now .... you will stress it further.. but sometimes you gotta do.. what you gotta do ... if you could rig up some shade for a week or two.. after the move... it will help reduce stress related to the replanting .... i would not expect an actual crop on the tree for 2 or 3 years ... it needs to grow the roots ... to support the crop ... it might work out faster in your zone... but if you expect such.. and it comes in sooner... then you will be happy ... lol .... rather than worrying when it doesnt happen .... ken https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub