Welcome, Sqftgarden. The previous post is correct - you'll find a wealth of information on the 6x8 HFGH if you run a search. Overall, I believe most people are very happy with them; in most places, they don't require the structural modifications the 10x12 does. I am in a similar zone, USDA 7, coastal New Jersey, have one and have been thrilled with it (though it is a little cramped ... but I think I'd have the same problem with a much larger one anyway, lol). The amount of info you'll find in a search can seem overwhelming, so, in brief, I believe I spent somewhere between $600& $800 all told; the following list may not be all-inclusinve, but probably close. Trailer rental for transport (we picked up at a local HF store), treated 2x10's & hardware for base, weatherstripping tape, caulk, gravel, paving blocks, benching & shelving materials, U-clamps for hanging things, circulating fan, electric heater, small propane heater for backup, wireless thermo-hygrometer, automatic roof vent, clear solar pool cover, 2 sheets 1" foam board for north wall & roof, hardware cloth and foil faced bubble-wrap type insulation for rodent and draft barriers around perimeter, GFCI outlet. I didn't buy a shade cloth, since ours is under a limbed-up tall oak, which provides dappled shade May-late September in all but the morning hours. Ours took about 6 hours to build (we had prepared the site the day before, and electric had already been run to the garden shed, so it was a very short run from there to the greenhouse.) I can provide you with more specifics, but first run a search and take a look at what others have already posted. Lots of good ideas out there, and "Conifers" posted a wonderful set of photos and notes documenting his assembly. A lot will depend on what your site is like (i.e., any special conditions like high winds, sloping ground, etc.) and how you plan to use the greenhouse. Be careful, though, as these things can be habit-forming. I am completely hooked ... I'd give up my second bathroom before I'd give up my greenhouse! Diane

The money saved using the solar pool cover has more than paid for itself. We usually put it on just before Thanksgiving and take it off late March or early April. I made the mistake of not ordering a clear cover and had to pay shipping on the return. I don't remember the size, but my GH is a 8 x 16 SunCountry and the cover goes up the side and over the top and back down the side again. The front is flush and I wrap the back like a package. I also purchased mine out of Wichita and ordered the gromet (sp) clips from Charley's Greenhouse.

Great pictures! Fortunately, the tree in our way died about a year before we put up our greenhouse (still had to cut it down, though!) We had a furry OSHA inspector too (all extra paws and hands were greatly appreciated.) I love my 10x12 HFGH, enjoying it for my third year. It's totally stuffed with plants, year round. "- We will add more clips to prevent the panels from flying off in the wind - a major concern." Sounds like you've read the archived threads here about the recurring problem of lost HFGH panels. In addition to extra clips (we did that too) it's pretty easy to add self-tapping screws to the panels, as even more protection against panel loss. The 10x12 is pretty tall and makes an even worse target for wind damage, but there are some scary threads archived here about wind-damaged 6x8 HFGHs as well. Here are some photos showing how we screwed the panels into the aluminum frame (thanks to previous GardenWeb forum members who suggested this improvement.) Part Six, Adding the Panels "- Depending on the temperatures, may add a blind on the western end to prevent sunburn and excessive late afternoon heat." I definately need shadecloth on the roof, west end, and south side (my succulents and cacti cook in there without it.) I also believe that adding shadecloth has helped to increase the lifespan of my HFGH panels in our sunny climate. (I used Aluminet shadecloth.) Some GardenWeb HFGH owners have reported problems with the HFGH panels deteriorating after exposure to sun, but others don't seem to have this problem. My panels have yellowed, but I see no other signs of deterioration (fingers crossed.) "In winter, may add water jugs as heat sinks in cooler weather." In theory it seems like this would help, but the general consensus seems to be that you'd need very large containers of water to retain enough heat to truly benefit you into the wee hours of a cold morning. Most small greenhouses can't afford to give up the high percentage of space required to make this work, but there's lots of good reading on this topic in this forum (posted by folks who are much smarter than I am.) "- Wish list: shelves, solar fan, temperature activated window control" Just a warning, the HFGH solar fan is not powerful enough to adequately cool your greenhouse (sounds good, but doesn't quite work.) If you do a search in this forum for HFGH solar fan, there's a thread with a knowledgeable poster sharing his calculations that a 6x8 HFGH would need three of the HFGH solar fans to exchange enough air to drop the temps (if my memory is right.) There are also some posts from folks saying the HFGH vent openers don't last long at all, and it's best to research and purchase other brands that have a better track record. Good job, congratulations, and happy greenhousing! Sheri

Ya know, it's funny... One of the roof vents binds (and I attribute that to the structure being 'slightly less than perfectly square'). The window brace (#51) on that side has also managed to twist itself slightly, since installation. That's the vent on the "north" side of the GH and I don't think I'll be putting a self-opener on that one (*I* get to be the automatic window-opener!!!). The window vent on the south side seems to open and close easily (:::shrug:::). Since that's the side that's exposed to sunlight, I'll put the solar vent opener over there. As far as the door goes: I've futzed around with that endlessly! I tried cleaning the track thoroughly (leaves, dust, dirt, etc.) and sprayed it with McLube (Sail lubricant - for sailboats - it's non-greasy). I'm a little leary of using anything called "grease" since it's outside, and Grease + Dirt = Yuk! (Or is Silicone Grease not really "greasy?!!"). I can get the door to open/close with "relative ease." Meaning I don't have to wrestle with it, but it definitely does take both hands! The thing that's giving me grief is the little plastic "lip" piece (Excuse me, "Door Bottom Slider" #40). It stays on the track, but pops off when the door is almost fully open. I can't seem to find a way to "lower" the upper door slider-track, so I'm thinking I need to shim (and/or bend) up the bottom instead. Dave, what was your experience with this? Thanks! -Nancy