What you are talking about is called the "Minnesota Tip" here. How it works is that you dig a trench as long as the rose is tall on one side of the rose starting a little ways out form the base of the rose. Then you dig up the opposite side of the root ball so that you can lay the rose down into the trench and then bury it all with soil. You are not bending the canes down but actually lifting the roots on one side to lay the rose down. The roots on the side with the trench will bend much easier than the canes. Like you said the canes will snap if you attempt to bend them down that far. It works but it's a lot of work to do and undo in the spring. Burying the canes can also lead to other problems like cankers so I wouldn't suggest it. I would suggest that you stake and cover it instead. Put in three or four good sturdy stakes around the rose and then wrap around the stakes a couple of times with burlap and tie it up with twine or staple it to the stakes if they are wooden. Mulch the bottom with what ever mulch you prefer about a good foot deep too. That should be enough protection for the roots and the canes to get them through winter. You will probably still have some winter cane die back but it shouldn't be excessive.

If you have any more cuttings I would love to have them, I have a Dendrobium Orchid..?

Well I am really a novice at training climbers but I learned after watching many youtube videos especially of Mr. Paul Zimmerman's. You want to train it horizontally, some roses are easier while others have non-flexible canes therefore train when they are young. When they are horizontal, the main canes that is, you are persuading the bush to produce laterals which produce the flowers. I read not to use steel wire and the sort because it will damage the plant especially when it is windy. I use regular strings, forgot what they are called. The same materials as the burlap wraps.

Basals (primaries) come from the graft or the ground. Laterals come from leaf joints in the basals or previous laterals. The only big concern with tying climbers is that you not break the canes. With some varieties, the young shoots are glassy and brittle. You shouldn't try to bend them much until they become somewhat fibrous. Other varieties have canes that become quite stiff and unmanageable when fully grown out. I would bend the first canes a little further down than you have done, to leave room for other canes that will be tied into those spots later. Build the fan starting almost horizontally.