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Starting Problem with Husqvarna Lawn Tractor

14 years ago

I have a 12-year old Husqvarna YTH-180 with 18 HP Kohler Command two-cylinder engine. When I finished mowing the last time I used it, I parked it in my garage and shut off the engine. A lawn service has maintained the yard since then. Now, 18 months later, I can't get the engine to start. First I added fresh fuel. Then I changed the spark plugs. Then I charged the battery. Then I syphoned the tank completely, changed the fuel filter and put in fresh fuel. Still, I can't get it to fire. I'm thinking I have a fuel pump problem as I don't feel any suction when I remove the fuel line from the intake side of the pump, put my finger against the opening and crank the starter. Also, the air bubble in the see-through fuel filter doesn't move when the engine is cranked. My friends are telling me that air in the fuel line is causing the problem and I need to "prime the pump." (Not that I doubt my friends, but I've run out of gas before on this tractor and I've never had to do anything but fill the tank.) Any advice would be appreciated!

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Comments (6)

rcbe
14 years ago
during the machine's 18 month storage, did it still have fuel in the tank? If so, you may have a now-gummed up carb. Also pull engine shroud sheet metal and look for mouse nest, etc... If all looks OK, try cranking engine to start (remember, somebody has to be sitting on the seat) while shootin a little spray can carb cleaner into carb throat. If still no effort to start, pull sparkplug and then hold it to ground on the engine block - crank and look for a bright blue spark. If weak or no spark, prob is ign related.If spark is bright/blue, prob is fuel delivery related.
If still no luck after all that, post back here with results and model#/type info off engine I.D.plate.
tomplum
14 years ago
rcbe has a good idea. Know that you can crank/ start it just by setting the park brake however.
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I take it that the engine does not even TRY to start, but just spins when the starter is engaged. You need to make the test that mownie suggested. There are probably more safety interlocks than just the seat switch, and one of them could be "shorting" out the system. There is likely one on the clutch/brake pedal, and another on the PTO lever (the one that engages the blades), and one on the shift mechanism (to prevent starting if the transmission is in gear.) Testing these will require a multimeter. There is also a ground wire from the engine to the frame; typically on Husqvarna/AYP/Electrolux/Roper machines, it is a rather small black wire that is attached to the underside of the tractor frame just below the engine and inside the right front wheel. You've likely got a bad magneto or (more likely) either an electrical short caused by chafed insulation, corrosion, or loose connection, or a malfunctioning safety interlock switch. This all based on your being certain that there is no spark at the plug.
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socram420 - you're gona hafta disasm that carb all the way - let the parts soak in fresh carb cleaner overnite - with a magnifier locate and clean out all the small holes with a small dia bras/copper wire - blow everything clean with compressed air - reasm using a new carb kit for that particular carb. Just dumping the entire carb in a can of cleaner won't get to the blockages that are most likely causing yer engine to not run well.
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zoulas
14 years ago
try starting fluid/spray. it may be enough to get it to start so you can see what is up. if it starts then dies right away, it must be the fuel pump.
mownie
14 years ago
If there was "unstabilized fuel" (meaning that you did not add a fuel stabilizer product to the fuel before storing the machine) remaining in the carburetor float bowl during the 18 month storage, it is possible that the needle valve has become stuck to its seat, the main jet and idle jet are varnish clogged, or all the above. Follow rcbe's advice on using "spray carb cleaner" as a starting fluid. Commercially available ether based starting fluids are a bit too violent for your average small engine. Don't expect to be able to "feel" much suction from the pump with a finger, these pulse vacuum pumps are pretty weak even when working good. A better way to test the pump output is to remove the fuel hose from where it attaches to the carb and put the end of that hose into a plastic soda bottle. Crank the engine in the normal fashion and if the pump is working, you should see some squirts of gas come out the hose in distinct pulses (will not be a "steady stream"). If the needle valve has become stuck to the valve seat, the fuel pump will not be able to move any fuel while the fuel hose is connected to the carb inlet fitting. Take that hose loose and put it into a bottle to check pump as described.
mrtractor
14 years ago
Depending on the engine model you probably have a solenoid on the main jet on the carb. It is a small cylinder that hangs below the carb bowl. As you turn the ignition key on/off you should be able to feel the solenoid click as it opens. I've had a couple of these solenoids quit. If nothing, check to make sure it is still getting power.
mownie
14 years ago
"Depending on the engine model you probably have a solenoid on the main jet on the carb."
Yes, good point. The varnishing act I cited in my above post can prevent this afterfire solenoid from operating too. If you can't feel the solenoid working with the key switch, be sure to try cleaning the plunger and barrel of the solenoid with spray carb cleaner before buying a new solenoid. They are so proud of those solenoids they put a "royal" price on them.

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