Thank you for the guess. The pictures I'm googling are all coming up from more mature plants so it's hard for me to tell.

Medonto: I agree with all of Trudi's suggestions, but I have said on this forum the best marker is one from Lee Valley. I just removed some from my front bed today that have endured two winters and last summer and look as good as when I labeled them. I use pieces of plastic from fabric softener bottles, but they also work on popsicle sticks. You can remove the ink with acetone (nail polish remover) and re-use or keep them for annuals/toms/veggies which you sow every year. You could also use Trudi's idea and label on the underside. I did that my first year, but did not like the idea of having the lift the entire container up to see what was inside. Good luck with the ID's. Northerner.

Diggin, it's hydrangea macrophylla. The exact name of your particular variety can be hard to come up with on a florists plant. If you planted it last year and it wintered over with its flower buds intact without protection, you may have received a hardy shrub, often they are tender to about Z7 or so - they don't always perform well in gardens - garden placement wasn't the original growers intention :). With just a handful of exceptions, they bloom on growth produced the previous year, or 'old' wood, so winter or Spring pruning (other than deadheading old spent flowers) should be avoided. If you are trying to keep the size somewhat compact, you could prune approx 1/3 of the stems that have had flowers on them down low at the end of each season. The result is a plant that is completely renewed every three years that hasn't gotten as large as its potential. Size depends somewhat on climate(winter injury/dieback)and variety but 4x4' or larger at maturity might be average. How much water how often will depend somewhat on your soil type. If you check at the base of the plant and it feels dry below the top couple of inches, water - even if that means daily in extreme heat. Mulch will help to cool the roots and conserve moisture. That much sun is more than is recommended, most hydrangea macrophylla appreciate some mid day shade when the sun is at its strongest. I don't see the foliage looking especially burned in your photo though, however your flowers are suffering from too much sun and those are browning out prematurely. If your soil PH is high, treating it to keep flowers blue will be on ongoing process - even more difficult if your water is also alkaline. I let mine bloom at whatever color they will arrive at naturally (it happens to be blue in my acidic soil) and don't try to control the shade, so I'll let someone else add some input there for you if the color is important to you.

I don't think so ,Vera. Very different plant. used to grow them because they were supposed to repel whitefly--they don't Here is a link that might be useful: Nicandra