Let me ask you what you mean by "take them in"? Are you going to plant them in the ground or in pots? If in the ground, I think you would do more damage by digging them up to take them in. Covering them with several inches of mulch should protect most of them pretty well. If you plan to plant them in pots, then you do need to do some planning for winter. You can either bring the pots into your unheated garage, or you can bury them (pot and all) in the ground to await next spring. There are plenty of discussions about these winter protection methods here on the site so you can get all the details. It is true that some minis are more winter tender than others, but if you do a good job of winter protection they should come through okay.

I can't see the situation you have there so can only guess based on knowing how hot air behaves. Also, calculations based on 'yearly averages' are misleading and can lead to wrong conclusions. A number of palms will cope with moderately cold minimums if the daytime maximums are much higher. However, if daytime is also cool the palms could be dead in a few days regardless of how high the overall yearly average might be. So to get them to survive you have to concentrate on the period of time they're most at risk, not on the offset value of summer time temperatures they might not live to experience. Without doing it in a completely enclosed space, not just behind walls, you're bordering on the impossible. Heated air rises so without some barrier overhead you'll be losing it rapidly. I could imagine the cost keeping heaters going to try and compensate this would be very high. It'd be more economical to build a structure overhead and reduce the amount of heating required. I've seen a few examples (photos on the internet) where people have done that. One was a fanatical Hoya grower who posted photos of an extension he built onto the house. Snow was piled high against it on the outside while Hoyas were growing happily inside. Another was what the owner called an atrium, quite large, filled with lots of tropical plants, mainly aroids. You could do that for palms, just keeping to the smaller species of which there are many beautiful ones. Just a suggestion that could be more easily achievable.

KJM, it's your choice if you want to protect or not. For climbers, usually they're better on their own - if they require protection to survive they're not going to climb anyway, so it's better to know now if they're hardy for you. Frankly, I agree with Cindi that you should be fine. If you do decide to protect, the styrofoam cones have a lot of problems with them because there's no air circulation and it can create canker and mold problems. Some folks will mound mulch or dirt or oak leaves/pine needles around the base of the plant for a little added boost, but if they're hardy roses they shouldn't need it. I lay filled leaf bags around the edge of my beds to cut the wind a little, but few of the roses probably actually need that protection (it's an excuse to gather up leaves for spring mulch, probably). My recommendation would be to grow them without protection, except that if you buy a grafted rose to make sure to bury the graft at least 2" below the soil line when planting. Otherwise, Kelly's experience indicates they should be fine for you in MN. Cynthia

Ok dahlia yes I think so The large one lying flat is different I'll try to get a better photo tomorrow. For the person who thinks I don't know what a weed is: telling someone that a weed is something growing where they don't want it is 1) condescending 2) annoying 3) useless I know some of you are regulars but my advice is don't condescend.