Peter- Wow. Sounds like you're getting into my head. Had some questions a while back about whether people only tended/tilled their rows, or tended/tilled their entire garden. I was thinking that it could be more cost/labor effective if you only tended rows year after year and let the aisles kind of be... with some sort of cover crop. Sounds like it can be done. I'm very interested in that. Is the white clover you mention, "dutch white clover"? When it creeps, will I be able to bring it under control when I till as normal for my fall/winter garden, and my spring/summer garden, or will I need to do additional spading/ edging of some sort then, and throughout the growing season? Can I plant it now, along with my winter garden? The book sounds interesting. I'm going to pick up a copy. Thanks for the clarification on the fact that, yes, I can grow hairy vetch and cereal rye now and still have organic matter to till in, in the early spring. Great news for me. I'm being thick headed here, but I'm still not understanding how the cereal rye affects seeds/seedlings. You say "cereal rye will suppress small seeded vegetables, but will not kill healthy transplants". Do you mean that ANY healthy transplant will not be harmed, and that only small seeds sown in place may have issues? Or do you mean by "small seeded vegetables", even transplants that are grown from small seeds can be affected? No till eh? I might be interested and your experiment suggestion is certainly something I'd be interested in trying. Do you think that even with the poor soil conditions that I have currently, it would be worth experimenting with that right now? Or, as I'm thinking maybe better to bring up my organic matter by tilling in pine bark fines, bring up my potassium levels with sulfate of potash (currently very low), add alfalfa meal to supply nitrogen needs, plant the garden, mulch with either shredded leaves or straw or hay.... Then next season try the no till part of the equation? Frankly, I'm just a little unsure about how the whole no till thing is going to work for me. Don't know a whole lot about it, but kind of thinking it might be better to do "next phase" because my soil is so poor. Please feel free to argue this to me, offer suggestions for no till on poor soil conditions viability. Do you (or anyone reading this) have a good source for cover crop seed? I was going to purchase from Johnny's selected seeds, but they are out of some of the varieties I was interested in.

A southwestern exposure in GA will be very difficult for most rhododendrons unless you are high in the mountains. The best possibility is probably one from the Southgate series or another variety with rhododendron hyperythrum as a parent. It would also be a good idea to check with local nurseries, your County Extension Service or state agriculture department for their input.

For a while there was one tree draped with small amounts of Spanish moss on the south side of Raleigh. I haven't driven through that intersection in years so I have no idea if any of it is still there. I think that our humidity levels are too inconsistent to keep it happy this far from the coast.

That is not Pothos (if we are referring to Epipremnum.) It looks more like heart-leaf Philodendron, P. hederaceum, to me, but it could be P. erubescens. Pothos usually technically survives here, but not enough regrowth after a frost to be a useful perennial. I've seen the Philo survive, but not as reliably. Lobelia might survive winter here, but unless I plant it in the fall, we'll never know because I've never seen it live through the heat of summer.