It might help if you explain what you are gunning for primarily. It SOUNDS like you want an attractive (kinda-)shade tree in a sunny spot. What state are you in - rainfall might matter. 6b puts you about mid-country, so you have lots of choices. I think your big limitation is space. That is a small front yard, close to the foundation, and have you checked with utilities as to where your lines run? Just some offhand thoughts - DED resistant elm might get fairly good size without too aggressive roots. Possibly some oaks or (yuck) pine might fit the bill too. Otherwise use a smaller ornamental - not sure what is best for your area.

Thank you all for the awesome ideas and links!!! The artists that paint the trees, WOW! Their work is beautiful and also gave me some more ideas. I'm thinking I might both paint it and plant the crossvines at the base. I'll likely trim off the top 1/3 of the tree though. The branches are pretty thin and brittle and will likely break. And then I'll probably paint the cut branches and use those somewhere. Wheeee! I'm curious, if anyone can answer this, I certainly don't want to send out an invitation to termites. Would painting the tree deter them? Wouldn't the paint act as a seal of sorts?

If you can drop the native restriction and provide water in summer one of your best bets would probably be Fargesia bamboos. These can be quite nice, grow in shade and won't take 20 years to size up. If instead the natives only restriction is set in concrete then about the only choice you have is Thuja plicata. Local shady woods with vegetation containing species such as those you have listed as being existing have no bushy, attractive native evergreen species of more than shrub height other than this conifer - it is the only kind that looks like it would lend itself to serious screening of views. Where salal is present evergreen huckle-berry may certainly also be possible - these two often grow together in the wild, on those occasions when the Vaccinium is present at all - but unless stimulated with liberal watering, this latter, like other heaths including the salal can be quite slow- and rather small-growing, prone to weevil attacks beneath overhanging trees and so on. And lack density in heavy shade, as do most trees and shrubs. Finally it is often the case that when people ask for quick 15 ft. tall plantings to block something next door they are thinking in terms of this screening being over near where the source of the unwanted view is, want therefore such height. But they may not in fact be using that part of the property most of those times when they are wanting there to be a visual barrier present. So that installing a source of relief near where they are looking from instead, well inside their property would be more efficient - and perhaps even immediately effective, if an architectural feature or modification is used.

"Encouraging it to get taller is going to create issues with my neighbor..." As pointed out, the neighbor has a complaint ... but no rights to call the shots on whatever is not on, or directly above, his property. If the problem were resolved, even if it took a little time, the complaint would dissolve. This same dilemma plays out in shopping centers across America. Codes demand that trees be placed along streets or in parking lots. Retailers want their stores and signs seen. So the trees are installed and then the retailers demand that they be pruned like shrubs on stumps so as not to block view of the signs above the storefront! That solution is the expensive, time consuming one that can't do anything but end in deformed trees and an oddball landscape continuing on into perpetuity. If the trees were proactively pruned by chasing the canopy upward creating a view below the canopy, the problem would be resolved once and for all, with less cost and a superior end result: signs and storefronts that are seen AND handsome trees.