If the wireless deer fence really works, that looks like a nice solution. From people who have dealt with deer, though, I would expect they might just learn to avoid it ... just as they learn to accept the motion-activated sprinklers. I've heard that an electrified wire that runs around the garden generally works well, as does clear fishing line strung at their chest height and "ankle" height ... they can't see it, but can feel it and become confused and avoid it. They can jump quite high, but need room in order to do so; therefore, two parallel fences spaced just right will deter them - they have to be far enough apart that the deer cannot clear both in one jump, but close enough that they can't get the start they need to clear the second. Some people install these fences at an angle, but that becomes quite space-intensive. As others have already stated, keeping the greenhouse cool in spring and summer would be a real problem, especially for those cool-weather crops you're planning. The shade house idea is a good one, however, and I'm wondering if you could get away with some type of tunnel-type structure covered with bird netting or some other mesh. For an easy-to-build frame, have you seen the faux bamboo stakes and connectors? Sort of like a large Tinker-Toy set for adults/gardeners. Gardener's Supply has them. Actually, greenhouser, deer are becoming more and more a problem in suburban areas. We're creating the perfect habitat for them. Deer actually dwell at the woods' edge, seeking shelter inside and food in the adjacent meadows ... whether that "meadow" be wild or someone's lawn and gardens. Their natural predators all but gone and an abundant food supply, their numbers increase until population pressures force them to move outward to new areas. Deer seem to be extremely adaptable and, as evident in some previous posts, become used to living around people, even standing their ground, blithely munching away on choice specimens, as a homeowner/gardener advances trying to shoo them away (I've seen it on video). Squirrelypete, I don't know that it would be any comfort to your hubby, but my dad, who loved fishing, held the philosophy that the fish got itself caught because of its own greed: it thought it was eating something else; so he had no qualms about eating it (though he'd never have hunted).

Hi Jeff, I am in a similar situation. I have mangos, bananas, guavas, citrus, papaya, carambola, lychee, pitomba, pitanga, grumichama, gardenias, plumies, adeniums, etc, etc. 1. Anyone in similar circumstances? What GH did you get, and are you happy with it? For various reasons, my GH is 20x23 tempered glass. I really like it, but at times I wish I had twinwall PC...better insulation and wetfeet is right, better light diffusion. 2. I'll probably use electric heat, but what do you use if the power goes out? Are there gas/propane heaters that can kick on in that situation? You can rig a backup generator. Alternatively, you can use backup gas/propane, but you probably would either have to have them on a microvoltage thermostat with a pilot light, or you would have to fire it up on your own. The next question is whether to use a vented or unvented heater. Vented heaters will not cause any plant trouble, but unvented heaters might. For a raging debate on this issue, look back about 6 months in this forum (or just wait until it comes up again this next winter). I have tons (literally) of soil and rock which act as thermal mass, but I don't go out of my way to add barrels of water. I'd rather fill the space with plants, and my experience and experiments tell me that it doesn't make that much difference anyway. Email me if you want details. 3. Can you grow tomatoes, peppers, herbs? Sure. Peppers and herbs are easy. Tomatoes are harder...they like a lot of light and heat, they take up space, they attract whitefiles like crazy...for me, they don't produce well enough to make it worth the space in the winter GH. 4. I've read that ventilation is important, but do you really suck icy cold air into your GH? No. The way I do it, and the way many others do it, is to just use passive ventilation in the winter. So rather than having a fan drawing air through, you just have a roof or ridge vent open to let a little heat out. Minimizing infiltration is important, but you will want some winter ventilation to keep humidity down. Venting and reheating is an important method of controlling the VPD. When you get rolling, let's trade some plants! SB

I had no problems last spring with my tomatoes going direct from my GH to the garden. Most were about 12 inches tall or taller. The GH has a large swamp cooler blowing air when ever it got up to or over 85 degrees. High altitude Colorado bright sun. It could depend on the quality of the GH material. \

Ok Thanks to all and the constructive criticism I really have a thick skin and can take it!! I will try to address all concerns addressed so that others and myself can benefit from my mistakes made . "I am more concern about the structural concept. If there is not enough cross bracing, any small movement due to foundation shifting or wind load can pop the glass panels out and do some serious damage to occupants. " The building was built like any other normal building frame style. Everything is built then the glass is added and capped for finish. After that its all sealed so any water cant get thru. On the north wall there is a 24inch section of plywood from the floor up for extra strength. Combine that with the plywood gables there is no movement at all. Its built like a brick you know what before the glass goes in. "There is not a lot of detail in the photos for comments. I can see the sheet metal cladding on the wood. I am not sure that¡¦s a good idea. Have a vapor barrier on the cold side of a humid environment can be problematic." Just ask Ill gladly get you more pictures of any detail you request. The aluminum on the wood is just to keep the water away from the wood and clean up the appearance. I donÂt heat the GH in the winter. Its used more as a storage shed in the off season. All vents are left open and the screen door is also left open to disperse any heat in the winter months. "overall, the design does look impressive and admittedly, I was being overly hard on it. But, recheck your calcs for "structural" glass construction. ;) BTW, If you're still interested in exploring a post + beam framed greenhouse, I've designed quite a few timber framed buildings - many with attached passive solar sunspaces utilizing true post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications. Email me if you'd like to see completed project photos and perhaps share some details." I appreciate the honesty it actually helps me learn. I would also love some help on the "calcs" of the glass install it self. Is the Half inch flange of metal not enough in your opinion? Remember the kerf deal is long gone. The aluminum acts as a kind of glazing strip..Please by all means advise of any other way that may help others reading this.! On the roof itself the glass lays flat on the wood surface with a 1 inch space in between glass panels (lots o silicone). I then screw a 1x3 in between the glass sections so the wood overlaps the glass.At the top of the roof there is about 8 inches of plywood sheeting due to the fact the glass wasnt long enough. So I made the glass start from the eves up as opposed from the top down.I honestly think I gained major strengh this way I then cap over wood for apearance only on the roof. I would also love to review any post+beam joinery and patio door glass panels, in both vertical and sloped glazing applications now your talking!! This is something that I have always wanted to figure out. the next house perhaps!! Let me know what you have in mind.