This was the thread that helped me put a name to the style of garden that I love best. I have been working towards the cottage style for many years and never get tired of the evolution of it. Loved reading them all again today. Cheryl

Thanks for your advice in this, Mike. The root system is so extensive that if I tried to pull it out, it would leave all the roots behind. I tried for a while and even after emptying out as much of the hydroton as I could, it wouldn't move a millimeter. It's because I used the small hydroton, I think. With that stuff the roots grab in a zillion places, whereas it's easier to shake plants loose of the medium grade (I think). I think I just have to resign myself to the fact that this antique glass is a goner at some point. I can split the glass using the scoring and water technique for making wine bottle planters. It goes so fast I don't think it will hurt the roots too much. Okay so here's the setup. It's in an apothecary jar about 10" high and 3.5-4" in diameter. It has produced a new leaf, which is now full size, so a one leaf cutting could be taken, if neccessary. My options: 1. I can break the glass now and move it to a new situation before its roots become of a sufficient mass to be endangered by the extraction. 2. I can harvest a small cutting and get it rooted now (while it's still summer), as a backup policy. 3. I can leave things as they are, allowing the plant to gain strength and stability, waiting to break the glass till the plant displays ire at its substandard quarters. So, what do you guys think? Do I act fast or bide my time? Thanks for reminding me about your reservoir strategy. I think that's how I'd like to grow my main plant in the end, although it would be nice to have one in soil and one in hydro and see how they do. Because, you know, I have so much room that really I need a lambii experiment going on.

For Richard concerning pvc pipes for watering, here are 2 links. I suppose that his reference to a rock is for a cap on the pipe instead of a pvc cap. http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf19058273.tip.html http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-make-your-tomato-plant-bigger With respect to this thread and grooming tomatoes, it is just common sense, and even we geologists can figure it out. SOME grooming of tomatoes is beneficial as more energy is available for fruiting, but if too much is done then there is insufficient leaf area to produce vegetation and fruit growth. Also, removing some leaves and stems is in reality an injury to the plant and produces a reproductive response in it, which results in more flowering and fruiting. So groom judiciously, keep plants spaced sufficiently apart for adequate sunlight and water (pvc pipe?), prepare the soil well so roots can grow easily, and be sure to put seedlings as deep as possible for greatest root production. Now to the good stuff. Nutrition! A retired physician here in Tucker, GA has published in our local free rag his tomato "secrets" which he acquired from another gentleman in Buford. In one season from 10 plants his production was 2281 tomatoes weighing 752 pounds. He used hybrids (I will grow ONLY heirlooms) consisting of 1 Parks Whopper, 5 Beefmasters, 2 Sweet 100's, and 2 Better Boys. Of course the Sweets being a cherry upped the number count and lowered the average weight considerably (0.32 lbs), but accounting for that my guess is that the average non-cherry plant yield would be 100-140 tomatoes averaging a pound each. I'd be happy with that any day. This is what he does. He uses new soil every year, although I feel that this is optional, as the soil adjuncts should be sufficient after the first year. He digs holes 15X15 and fills with bagged topsoil mixed with potting soil and Natures Helper. I use just Natures helper and a little sandy loam I dig up from the woods (a former terraced farm) behind my townhome. With clay soils here the sand helps considerably. He then mixes in: a) handful of 10-10-10 b) handful of lime c) handful of Epsom Salt (critical, as tomatoes are magnesium hungry) d) 2 handfuls cow manure e) 2 tablespoons baking soda After planting he covers the soil with pine bark nuggets to help keep the soil moist. At 3 week intervals he adds around each plant 2 handfuls 10-10-10, a handful Epsom Salt, and 2 tablespoons baking soda. So after the first year of new soil and Natures Helper try just the a-e adjuncts and see what happens, especially if you do not wish to excavate many holes and have no place to put the resulting "used" soil. The method says that the soil is important, but I think that it is overemphasized after year one's conditioning. This is "Dr Dan's Tomato Recipe and Method" from the February 2010 issue of Up Close and Personal in Tucker, and has been reprinted each year since. Dr L. Dan Johnson was shared this method by the late Mr Ralph Pass of Buford, GA, a former patient of his. A golfing buddy of Dr Johnson's told him that "Thank God you do not grow watermelons!"

There's still some wackiness, but mainly from phones. Pics take time, but I've determined that sometimes the file is too big so if I adjust for that it fast. It's not a problem too much, just not in the title section of a post. I don't have many issues honestly.... only typing from my phone, so I use voice recognition. I must have a strange accent or talk too fast because it records funny things! I hope you'll visit both sites.... I personally miss your infectious spirit and know many northerners have questions about keeping their pots over the winter and I'm always scrounging up your old posts. MUCH BETTER to have you sharing your hard-earned wisdom! : ))