Troy, we have a similar set up. I also have strong winds blowing on the doors. I have a fan on the back wall, and the fan louvers bang open on windy days with the GH doors open. We also only used one screw on our roof panels, in the center brace (and extra clips.) I agree, thank goodness for the EMT bracing recommended by Gardenerwantabe and others here. Im coming to two new conclusions. First, I think you're right about the unsecured bottom of the roof panels being a risk in some winds, based on your observations of the roof panel bottoms flapping up and down, and bwrights experience of losing screwed-down roof panels twice. (Thats the first post Ive seen about the loss of screwed-down panels.) I taped the bottom of our roof panels to the greenhouse frame, but only because we were one of the "lucky ones" whose roof panels were not quite long enough to project over the gutter as shown in the manual. Not everyone has this problem, but Laserfan used aluminum tape to bridge this gap on his HFGH, so I did too. I was not trying to prevent the wind from getting under the roof panel bottom, but thats probably been (accidentally) protecting our roof in high winds. This also fits with bwrights comments about using the Freezer King tape to similar advantage, to make sure all edges are sealed. Heres our roof panel at the bottom edge: Second, Im starting to see the roof vents as a fairly big risk for people in very windy areas. My kit may vary from others, but the poly panels in my roof vents were a bit too short to prevent movement in the vent frame. They fit tightly from side to side, but after each window was assembled, we could slide the poly panel up and down in the window frame, about 1/4". During one bad storm, I almost lost the poly panel from one of the roof vents. The wind had pushed the panel up in the frame so the bottom edge of the poly was exposed, and the wind got underneath and pried the panel part way out of the vent frame. I climbed up and taped it to get through the night. Next day, we removed all four window vents, and I caulked each poly panel in place on the outside of the window frame. The poly panels no longer wiggle in the vent frames. But, I still have the problem of bad winds lifting up the vent frames up (maybe ¾"?) even though the vent handle is locked in the last hole ("closed down") position. Wind picks up the vent frame, and when the gust stops, the vent doesn't always fall back in place correctly, so it's ready to be picked up by the next gust. If this happens over and over again in a storm, maybe its enough to shake the window stop out of the hole in the roof vent handle...? Once that happens, the whole vent frame could flip over backwards until it popped out of the roof peak channel (I watched that happen while building the GH, retrieving one vent window from our house roof.) If a roof vent fails, wind likely rushes in and puts pressure on the weakest points from inside the GH. If all the panel screws hold, the doors become the next weakest point, so they blow outward. Thats one theory, anyway, and right now Im thinking the safest thing is to leave my vents wired down permanently, since I cant figure out how to prevent the frames from lifting up that 3/4" inch (or so) in a high wind. Wish I had a better solution, but so far Im stumped. I'll add some of this info to my HFGH blog in case it helps others. Thanks for all the good posts here! Good luck with the door rebuilding Troy, looking forward to your pictures. Sheri

jbest123 The door worked fine on the HFGH all last winter until I left it open all summer. As soon as I tried to close it for the first time it stuck. The tracks were clean. The two vents never worked right. Short of somehow trimming an RCH off each side they're not going to work right as far as I can see. The large 6x6s or whatever they're called can't move as they have long heavy rebars going deep into the ground and the frame is well screwed to these pressure treated beams. No trees are near the GHs. We can't add on to the Rion because the foundation thing we got from Rion is set in concrete. It would be a major construction-destruction production to remove the back of the GH to add more sections. All that concrete and the plastic foundation would have to be removed somehow without destroying the GH frame itself... never happen in my lifetime. Once a Rion is set in place (and yes, more rebar was used) I can't see how it can be added on to unless it's just "sitting" on the ground.

Thanks Pat and Nancy! Gardenerwantable, sorry the pic isn't clear. Yup, the punch-outs for the cords to pass through are already out, no problem there. (And I know just what you mean about the option of mounting it 90° and having two punch-outs.) The problem isn't where the cords go, it's the plugs themselves, and it's only because these two have to be piggy-backed together. My thermostat isn't hardwired into the fan. It's designed so you first plug the thermostat into the outlet, and then you plug the (fan, heater, whatever) into the back of the thermostat plug. So, the two plugs are piggy-backed together. The two plugs together are almost 5" long, but the clear bubble cover on these in-use outlet covers is only 2 1/2 to 3" deep. One plug by itself works great (cover closes and it looks lovely.) Two big plugs piggybacked together, no go! I'm still thinking. Jack, thanks for your concern. You are right about electricity and water. All of our wiring is protected in 3/4" conduit, with GFCI outlets and (the ill-fitting) in-use outlet covers to be as safe as possible. You might be seeing the heavy cords of the fan and thermostat, which will be secured with plastic cable ties as soon as I figure out where the thermostat should live. I am far too chicken to have loose wires running about! I think Gardenerwantabe's ceiling fan blades just have a relaxed attitude toward life, which is a goal of mine. :-)

Here's some photos. #1 buy an exhaust fan on a thermostat with a shutter or shutters on the same thermostat loop. I ripped my door off and got rid of it. I took a few 2 x 4's went to the hardware store ... bought some screen, attached it to the frame I built and then got a bunch of poly and tacked it to the frame I built and brought a few bricks inside to hold the poly to the floor. On days when you are around (a "weather station" unit is helpful so you are alerted when the temps rise) , I'm always around so that's an easy deal, but, at anytime I could drape that poly up so the screen was allowing air exchange. The door was held on with a big clamp. That piece of chicken crap "bar/track" on the top of the door frame, I clamped MY DOOR to it. DONE! Cost me 10 cents the way I see it. Everyone has a saw, a hammer or screwdriver so fix it and stop complaining. Those vents don't do jack squat. You need an exhaust fan. Get yourself a shade cloth too. That'll lower temps 10 degrees. Again, I found some bricks laying around and anchored it. Again, Done! Sorry but this is going no-where. Dax Here's your photos. This is a cool mister you can buy anywhere. I'd recommend a larger one that holds more water. This too will lower temps.