The pH reading, 6.6, is not "very high," but rather, is close to optimum for most vegetables. Our garden soil has a pH around 7.6, & we grow beans, lettuce, swiss chard, broccoli, & tomatoes successfully. Are there any weeds growing in your garden plot, and if so, what do they look like?

As of right now, I don't see any weeds. The area that I made the garden was just a piece of my backyard. It was covered in grass. I rented a tiller and tilled it and mixed in some soil/fertilizer. Then I heard worms where good for a garden and while tilling it, I saw some, I went and got about 100 or so and put them in there. Right now it just looks like a square dirt patch.

A soil pH of 6.6 is toward the high end of optimal, 6.2 to 6.8, that most vegetables find best for them because with a soil pH in that range most all soil nutrients are most readily available.
What you still need to know is what is the humus level (amount of residual organic matter) of your soil. That should be around 5 to 8 percent because organic matter in soils aid in allowing better soil moisture movement, easier movement of plant roots, and make the soil nutrients plants need more available. Some simple tests you can do to learn more about your soil are these,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

2. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

I will try those suggestions this weekend. Thank you for all the advice.

The easy way is to plant the vegetables and see what happens. You might be satisfied with the results, and not have to do anything.

I have soil in the OMG! range for alkalinity ... and I'm successfully growing a long list of vegetables.

I would cover it with 2-6 inches of mulch and water it for a full hour. Then sit back for a couple months and put in a summer or fall garden of flowers. The mulch will allow the soil microbes time to clean up your soil for you.

What kind of fertilizer did you add?

Are you trying to grow blueberries? I assume so since it's on the analysis results table. If so, they *do* like lower pH, but you could amend the area immediately around the blueberry bushes with a soil acidifier. They may grow OK, though, so don't panic.

I would think it's more of a problem to have nutrients reading Low than High, maybe with some exceptions. Your soil looks very fertile as far as the test goes, so I'd interpret all your high readings as "don't need to add fertilizer." But do kimmsr's tests and observations and let us know.

The fact that your garden patch had grass growing on it before you tilled is helpful to know. It means that the soil is fundamentally healthy, capable of supporting plant life. I'm not sure that you need to do anything to prepare this bed for growing vegetables. I would just go ahead and plant.

Boy, that's the sort of soil test some people (like me) dream of. It all looks real good. I would throw on a couple of bales of peat moss for now, and then make plans to use mulch and compost to continue to condition the soil.

Don't let the soil remain exposed to the elements. Cover it with a mulch of some sort, even when it's not planted.