Well, it would appear the machine needs to be set im the back of the garage, and left to dream about things that have been, long ago! ITS WORE OUT!
If the engine runs good, remove it and sell it, and send the rest to the snow drift in the sky!
The probable unavailability of parts for something that old is not good, and you'll spend a lot of time and money trying to make it do the job!
I had an old Dayton here. It ran great, but the snow part was done, so i sold the engine to a guy for his log splitter, and gave him all of it. He junked the works, and is splitting logs.

Not going to get me to give up that easily. I have no doubt I can get it running. I'm getting a book that should help me figure it all out. I just wanted some knowledge from someone who know's toros and their adjustability etc.

Turns out it's not a 1969, I ran the serial and it is a 1974 model. My uncle must have owned a different blower in '69 and forgot. Regardless, this is a 1974.

Model 31823 , Serial 402xxx

Also, something to keep in mind is that I am the one that did all the carb and fuel delivery work. I'm pretty good with a wrench ;-)

**side note**
I wish there was an edit function to add to/edit old posts, then I would have just had one reply instead of these 3.

It has been a while since I've worked on these. They were beasts. Go through about anything, would lose throw distance pretty quick in the soupy stuff tho. The disc adjustments as I recall you have two. You will see that 1 basically sets the the friction disc position on the driven disc. Set your adjustment for reverse with this lever. You really just balance high and reverse with this adjustment. The other lever's sole job is to set the carrier and how far it allows the friction disc to travel. Think of it like a clutch adjustment. With the bottom cover off, this will make sense to you. There are also gate and yoke adjustments directly under the panel if you need to line things up if dad drove into the handle with the suburban on occasion. I don't recall if there even were chain adjustments. Replace them if it gets too much slop. These would shear the pin next to the driven? gear if things got too far out of whack. Check for things like missing or damaged springs that control the carrier, worn bushings and put a straight edge accross the driven disc while you are there. Visit Toro.com for part diagrams and manuals. Go get 'em.

Thanks Tom.

Turns out it was just a loose nut on the lever coming down to the rubber disc. I tightened that up and I'm in business. I'm missing the two bottom plates though, hopefully I can find them in my grandfather's garage where the beast was stored. If not I'll have to get them from Toro (yeah right, they probably cost WAY too much or maybe you can't even get them any more) or more likely I'll fab some up. This thing still blows snow like crazy. I moved a 4' tall ice filled snow bank with it after tightening the nut. Only problem was when I got too far into the bank the rubber would get wet and I'd lose propulsion till it dried back out. It does still "hang" in gear sometimes so when I pull back it keeps going forward till I get over the neutral area, but it's not half as bad as before.

I found the plates for the bottom and rear in my grandfather's garage. They were all bent really bad, but I was able to hammer them out and make them fit. It works perfect now, just like a new blower (not quite, but just as good as it was when it was new anyway).

there is this thing called a a clarence impeller kit. 30 bucks or u can make your own. the beast will start throwing snow over the rood. u should may be able to get the manual on line form toro for free. worth having . good luck.

I've heard of the clarence kit, but the blower works well for me right now. The one thing the clarence kit would really help with is that when I am doing only 2-3 inches somewhere it harldy throws it out of the shoot due to the 1/2" or better gap between the thrower blades and the housing. I ordered the manual from toro.com a few days ago for $4.

I have another problem - part of the auger came unwelded on the tube part. Is there any way to repair this other than welding? And if I do have to weld it, how hard is it to take the auger out?

Nevermind, I got the drum off. I'm going to bring it in to my mechanic to get it welded today. I think I may take the other drum off (there is one on each side) and have it rewelded as a few of those welds are cracked. I'll wait and see how much it costs to get this one fixed first.

I got it all welded on the 17th. It works perfect now. I reinstalled it with a shear bolt, and replace the other side with a shear bolt as well. Hopefully it won't wreck itself again...this thing is a monster.

I went home yesterday and used my dad's YardMachine - 5hp/22" to clear some snow around a tree near the driveway (so they can drive around it when the driveway is full), and it sure is a lot smaller lol. I actually like the smaller blower for a lot of things, but it is fun using the big toro as well.

The drum auger striking the surface is usually the culprit in breaking these. Spring loaded scraper I assume? Set the skids to only allow the the scraper to contact the ground a minimal amount. Set it slightly above w/ a gravel drive. On this old of machine, it is likely the scraper is worn. BTW, they use grade 5 bolts in the augers , ideally w/ nyloc nuts. It's kinda fun to have to change these when your drum is full of snow after the nut dropped off and the bolt came out. Enjoy the beast!

It is indeed a spring loaded scraper, but it doesn't touch the auger more than just a little scrape here and there. I noticed it was broken after I had pushed back some ice banks (hand been snow, but it warmed then cooled and made it all ice)...I'm guessing that's why it was broken lol.

I have a 1986 toro 724. Similar problems as far as it not propelling itself. However, the major problem for mine is that the gears are worn out. The question I do have is what is the diameter of a new friction disc? Pondering if I should replace that as well since I've got it all torn apart, or it is still good. The friction disc still seems to slip though, so I'm not sure if it's just an adjustment I need to do. Diameter of mine is 5.75". Because of the age, I can't just go to a parts dealer and see a new one.

Thanks

I think the universal 6" discs you get anywhere work on those. It has been awhile tho. If you let your control go into the forward gear and the control doesn't bottom out, it is likely the disc. Pay attention to the bearings and that the plate is flat. What is the 5 digit model #?

Model # 38050
Ser # 6002078

I have to plead now I'm not so sure on that disc. I don't know that the universal discs fit the 4 hole. I looked in the OEP book, and the number does not cross to the universal 6" disc. I back when I repaired them, we used Toro discs. I would think that the Toro dealer would stock it. I only remember 2 discs for the Toro - yours and the small for the 21-22" chassis. I'd say just go ahead and toss one on as Toro parts aren't expensive. Now their parts are more that Deere's! Still probably the way to go tho.