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Question on Fall Planting?

10 years ago

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking for some advice on planting in the fall. I've always been told that spring and fall are the best times to plant, however I've been getting some conflicting information about planting ilex and laurel. Can anyone provide some information on whether it's safe to plant the following shrubs during September/October in Zone 7 (Long Island)?

Ilex Opeca
Schip Laurel (Cherry Laurel)
Mountain Laurel

Or do I need to wait until Spring? Thank you!

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Comments (8)

Embothrium
10 years ago
Do it in fall. Too cold for fall planting starts with Zone 5.
bogturtle
10 years ago
Roots will grow until the soil freezes and drought is not a threat in Fall. However, sweeping freezing winds will damage these plants in Winter, especially in Sun. I notice some people spray something or wrap the plants. Cannot be bothered. Despite these challenges, Fall planting still seems best for me.
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Scarygirl, Water them now! They should not be allowed to dry completely out. Also, I'm not sure if I understand if you want to free up your pots now and plant the daffodils out or if you want to plant them out after they bloom indoors. If you want to have them bloom indoors: Put the pots into a sunny, bright, COOL, window turning them every once in a while to assure even growth. If the foliage is presently very pale you may want to gradually move them into brighter and brighter light over a week or so to avoid burning the tender leaves. Most Daffodils need at least 12-13 weeks of moist cold (35 to 48 degrees F.) before they are ready for forcing, so make sure that you have met that requirement. If you wish to plant them out after they are finished blooming, wait until the weather warms and won't freeze the foliage which will be acclimated to being indoors. Plant them at the depth that you would if Fall planting (5"-6") You want to keep the foliage healthy as long as possible so that the bulbs can rejuvenate themselves. They probably won't bloom the next year, but may the following year. Many people just throw the spent bulbs away rather than planting them in the garden. It usually means weeks and weeks of keeping ugly, bent over, elongated, foliage in the house in a sunny window waiting for acceptable weather to plant out. Unless they are very special bulbs, it's not worth the trouble in my opinion. There's lots of info on the internet on this subject so just search for forcing daffodils to get more details. Paul
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Spinach is an excellent fall crop . Most Asian greens like tatsoi, bok choy, and all the relatives are good too. I plant fall seeds slightly deeper than in the spring, because those seeds usually don't like germinating in hot soil and the surface of the soil can still be very hot at this time of year. If you can provide shade during germination and keep the soil moist and cool, that's half the battle won already. Another difference between fall and spring is that fall seedlings are immediately attacked by insects (for example leaf miners or cabbage worms as the case may be). So lay down insect barrier row cover after you seed spinach, and be ready to use Bt for the caterpillars on brassicas. The third difference is that there isn't a clear time when the crop is finished (unlike spring when they bolt and that's it). They will just gradually decline and go dormant as the weather cools. Lettuce will be the first to kick the bucket as it is the least cold hardy of fall crops.
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Quick question regarding planting in the Fall
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hey .. glad to hear you backed off on the watering ... ok.. first.. if you figure out how to kill a forsythia.. let us know.. i had a neighbor..dig a 2 foot ball.. on a 12 to 15 foot round bush [he cut it to 3 feet] ... IN AUGUST.. and DRAGGED it 2 acres to my lot.. and we stuck it in the ground.. watered it once .. and it lived ... this is a cut it to the ground.. run it over with the truck type of bush ... as are a lot of shrubs ... [i didnt really want it.. but they so wanted to 'save' it .. i had had ground to cover .. i would have just rooted a few pieces .... but apparently.. he needed the exercise .. lol] i dont even think.. presuming its potted.. that i would worry about waiting for dormancy ... i would probably plant it.. as soon as night temps are reliably in the mid to low 60's .. and water it PROPERLY.. thru the root zone.. late into fall ... say.. 11/1 ... for ground freeze areas.. i would want it in the ground.. 6 to 10 weeks before freeze ... which in MI is usually around 1/1 ... they wont need much of any water in nov ... if there is any rain.. the soil simply will not dry out.. like summer ... so insuring water.. just means checking most of the time ... forsythia root freely ... in a glass of water ... so experiment.. and root a couple 6 inch pieces.. and as soon as you see roots.. pot them all together in moist media .. and tent them in a plastic bag .. and in october or so.. bare root and put in a holding area [veggie patch??].. and i would not be surprised if you dont get a couple to winter over ... there is really NOTHING foo foo about shrubs.. they are the workhorses of the back of the garden .. and need little or no SPECIAL care .. once fully established ... absolutely none of my shrubs have gotten any water in this extreme drought and heat ... and though some look a bit ragged ... i fear for none of them ... but again.. they are 10 years on site ... with all your recent experience with planting trees.. and succeeding wildly[how many did you plant this year??] ... shrubs will be a piece of cake.. unless you go foo foo ... and even those.. will just need a little more water care ... ken
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'Fall planting' versus 'Spring planting'
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this is a very interesting dichotomy of opinion... based on zone ... the poster is in z5 ... and should lean toward the opinions of peeps from z5 or 6 .... IMHO i have moved and planted hundreds of conifers and trees in october or april ... i SUSPECT that the suspended animation of ground freeze is the key .... and.. in my yellow sand... EVERYTHING ends up near bare root .... planting in oct in my z5 .. gives you about 3 months for root growth in fall, before the ground freezes .. and then the additional 3 months next spring ... etc ... dan added that its hard to get bare root stock in fall... my experience is in moving things from one spot to another on my 5 acres ... so i never contemplated the mail order issue ... so i am hoping to get some things moved this fall.. and some more next spring.. it simply doesnt matter in my z5 near ann arbor MI ... i did hear an opinion recently.. that anything variegated .... with white or yellow tissue plus green .. that tissue which is most prone to winter dessication .... should be moved in spring .... it would answer why conifers with such variegation ... in my yard.. suffered greatly the first winter .... but i am still wondering what nursery is sending bare root stock in fall ..... if you are using a sub par seller... it might be moot whatever we say ... good luck ken
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zooba72
Original Author
10 years ago
Thanks for the responses. That's what I was hoping to hear. Thx
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
10 years ago
drought is not a threat in Fall.

==>>> it is a threat in fall ... but the odds are low ...

too often.. peeps put away the hose in early october.. when the leaves fall off ...

but for me in MI.. ground freeze is 1/1 or so ... and thats a long time for the soil to POTENTIALLY dry ... especially in my sand...

with cold nights and low sun ... it usually wont happen..

but that should NOT stop you from checking every few weeks .. to insure that the soil stays moist ..

and as i understand... from posts here.. that is very important in non-ground freeze areas ...

NEVER PRESUME... insert finger ...

ken

ps: i like to say.. in ground freeze MI ... winter is technically a desert ... because the water is tied up in frozen form .... things are technically in suspended animation ... which makes it OK ... but you still have to think about moisture...
ericwi
10 years ago
I have had success transplanting blueberry shrubs in the fall, between September 15 and October 15. We live in Madison, Wisconsin. I like to plant in the afternoon or evening, and I am careful to keep the roots damp. I also water in immediately. Planting when the sun is low gives the roots a chance to begin working before the leaves are exposed to full sun, on the following day.
prairiemoon2 z6b MA
10 years ago
Here in zone 6a, I want to move a number of shrubs. Normally I wouldn't hesitate to plant potted shrubs that I purchase even in November, but digging up a shrub
and moving it, is it a good time to do that this month?

I always thought waiting for trees and shrubs to be dormant before moving was the best time. Is that right? How do I know if it is dormant?
zooba72
Original Author
10 years ago
I'm definitely not the expert, but I was always told to transplant trees when they are dormant. I'm actually going to be moving a couple of Red Maples this year and plan on doing that sometime in November. I'm in zone 7.... It might also depend on the type of tree. Hopefully someone else can provide more information for you.
prairiemoon2 z6b MA
10 years ago
Thanks zooba, I'm not going to move a tree, thankfully, what a job that would be! Just a few small shrubs. Good luck with your Red Maple moves!

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