I tried to melt a piece of scrap polycarb with the steamer and only managed to soften very slightly by laying the hot metal tip of the nozzle directly against it, and even then it took over a minute, so using it in the aluminum channels won't harm it. Using the floor attachment, I could probably could use it to clean the polycarb too. I've been pretty aggressive with it on vinyl floors and none have suffered from it. I think the best way will be to start at the top of the channels and just run it down, with the nozzle in the channel. As long as it keeps moving, it can't transfer as much heat to the polycarb than it would be subjected to in the full sun in summer. So... time to clean the inside of the polybars, and all those other tiny spaces I haven't the energy or inclination to attack with a tooth brush. sowngrow: If you do get a steam cleaner, make it a cannister model. Don't bother with any of the small hand held ones. No guts, and you will spend more time refilling it than using it. But once you have one, you will be finding many other uses for it. My husband uses it on engines, tractors, garden equipment. etc.

This is long, but important, so please read all the way through. My personal theory as to WHY the dirt in these pads do not like to come clean in the first place is because they are all made out of synthetic microfiber blends. This is NOT a rant about doing everything in your life all-natural so please stay with me. In the beginning of my Cosmetology education, I learned that synthetic fibers (such as those used on wigs and cosmetology tools and brushes, do Not like hot water. Only cold or at least tepid water could be used unless you enjoy having your brushes, cloths and wig hairs get all tangled and matted up in an instant, melted in some cases, or hairs/fibers fused together. It’s synthetic. It can’t take the heat. With that said, I suspect these companies insisting on using microfiber steam mop pads are setting us all up for failure from the beginning. Steam is insanely hot and WILL melt and fuse the little fibers together during use (this is why they say not to put them in the dryer). Steam blows open the fibers in an intense way which is something else I learned in Cosmo school. Steam always works better than hot water in opening up skin pores for instance. Material fibers are no different… unless that material blows up but then breaks down with said heat. Polyester and Nylon just can’t take the heat. You might ask why the heck these companies would make their pads with microfiber if that were true. I’m glad you asked - I suspect the mop companies use these materials anyway, because it’s much cheaper than cotton and will slide nicely across the floor. They know if their customers feel they have to push too hard, they won’t want to use it and will go with the other company that does use microfiber. Let’s be honest, “microfiber” is like some positive buzz word in the retail industry when actually many of us avoid it like Covid. It only has a few good qualities, none of which are involved with mop heads. Microfiber, is good only for scrubbing, acting as a water repellent in some cases, and behaving somewhat like Velcro when used for dry sweeping. Have you ever tried to remove things that stuck to microfiber material after being in the wash or dryer? It’s not fun is it? When microfiber is used in wet cleaning applications however, that synthetic material DOES NOT ABSORB. It just doesn’t. It’s synthetic. Synthetics don’t absorb like a natural fiber (e.g. Cotton) does. Try wiping dry your kitchen countertop with a microfiber wash cloth, and then try again with an all cotton and you will see what it is I’m saying. All of this to share that I finally found a solution to not only keep my microfiber pads from getting too dirty (or worse than they already are), but to also pick up dirt far better than what the pads were originally doing (I have one of the Bissell Power Fresh Pet steam mops for reference). SOLUTION: I take a damp, wrung out steam mop pad, flip it inside out (I also cut off the scent disk pocket), place it on my steam mop, then place the mop down on top of a 100% cotton shop towel and click down the flip scrubber piece in the back of my mop so that it grabs my towel. At this point, I use the mop as usual on the highest steam output setting. Why do I flip the mop pad inside out? Because I discovered that it allows the towel underneath to stay put a little better and glides across the floor better as well. I have also only ever done this with a damp, completely wrung out mop pad in place, but with a dry shop towel. After the towel gets dirty, I rinse out the mop pad and wring it out again as much as possible before placing back on my mop and grabbing another clean, dry shop towel. The benefit here, is not only are my floors getting that much more clean, but I can buy cotton shop towels by the mass for much cheaper than those mop pads AND they clean up white so much easier! If you want to bleach, then bleach. If you want to use your usual make-em-white method, then do that instead. The world is your oyster. Cheaper Works better Cleans up Whiter Easy It’s what has finally worked for me and my mop. I hope it helps some of you too.

RE: Miele vs Wolf. We have a vacation home with Miele speed oven (2010)(combo of microwave and convection with broiler), 30" convection oven, and induction cooktop. We use the speed oven for everything except large meats due to its speed of heating up with the 'rapid heat' feature, but find it inconvenient to not have a microwave available if we are using the oven. But, to simply microwave requires about 5 or 6 steps on the digital panel, a big PITA. And, guests cannot figure out how to use the German minimalist controls for the induction and the microwave. Form over function! So, with our new home in Seattle (2015) we used all Wolf this time. We use the steam convection oven daily, and we don't clean it much. I did a side by side at Albert Lee showroom putting muffins and almond croissants into the Wolf and the Miele, both cold, set both to steam convection at about 360ºF. The Wolf was easier to set (even the showroom person had difficulty navigating the Miele minimalist digital screen). In about 5 minutes the Wolf produced internally moist, externally browned and crispy croissants, the Miele was not yet flaky or crisp on the outside. So, that made my decision for me! Does anyone know if the baking soda/peroxide past cleaning regimen damages the Wolf CSO? Thanks all for the entries. I am late in responding, having just read the thread.

I would try using Cascade Platinum Action Pacs dishwasher detergent with the longest and hottest heavy duty cycle if the machine doesn't have a basket clean cycle. Also, add a gallon or two of hot water through the detergent drawer after the machine has filled and has run for about 5 minutes. You want to get the water level higher than what it would normally be during a wash. Ultimately, you may just have to have the machine professionally serviced.