Mimosa pudica, aka sensitive plant. That response to changes in daylight (also other stimuli) is called nyctinasty.

Thanks for the responses. Since we are a little bit south of you, bogturtle, the yellowing may be a little later here. We haven't had much cold yet and I do have a few yellow leaves at this point. Mistascott, thanks for the idea. I will try posting on that forum. So many of my plants seem to be slow growing. For that reason, I agree that it is probably wild. The things that I would love to have grow quickly, don't! Very irritating that something I didn't plant is flourishing! Thanks so much.

This seems to be my biggest problem when it comes to rhododendrons - keeping that root ball hydrated once it's planted. The only rhodos I have the problems with, though, are the ones that I buy in pots. The roots become very congested in those pots, and must be 'roughed up' a bit, and watered very well, before you plant them. Even then, I find, they are difficult to keep hydrated. The only rhodos that are more easily transplanted are ones that are already established in the ground, with a root system that has grown outwards already. A neighbour of mine dug up a huge rhodo a few years ago, and put the poor thing by the road for garbage day. I saw the rhodo laying there (all forlorn) and phoned the neighbour and asked if I could rescue it. He said sure. I took the rhodo, (it had been out of the ground for over a day) and planted it. Watered it a few times, pruned it way back (he had kind of hacked away at it), and 3 or 4 years later, it's looking really nice. The point of my story is I had absolutely no problems keeping the roots hydrated because they weren't in this tight ball that you find on pot-grown rhodies. This is just my experience, of course. I'd do what's been suggested (dig up - pull apart roots - rehydrate rootball). Also, cut off any dead wood, and replant. I'm not necessarily recommending this - but, I drastically pruned the rescued rhodo of mine, then again I figured I had nothing to lose. It turned out good, except I have problems with it having grey-coloured flower buds, and I'm not sure if it's going to finally bloom - but that's another story.

Hi Beth. Welcome! I use Fish Emulsion as soon as I can get my plants outside as a preventative on any possible sucking insect and it works for me. I spray with it at least once a month now and more so before I bring them in for the winter. I have no pest issues with the trees I treat except for mites after a long period indoors if the winter is extremely dry and cold, which it has been. Too, I forget to treat a plant or two before bringing them in such as my Olive Tree because I left it out way beyond my other plants and it will get attacked by mites which can spread to surrounding plants. At least every other pest that seems to attack many others trees such as Mealy, Thrips, and Scale are not a problem at all and I thank the Fish Emulsion for this. Now that I can't spray with F.E in my home, I have to watch for mites at least since especially towards the end of winter. Now I have been using Rosemary Oil because they are indoors, and the stuff smells good too and it has done wonders for my trees. Not a one mite damaged leaf to be found after a month on any of my plants and just because I don't seem to have a problem anymore, I'll treat again once a month until I can stick them outside again to be safe. Then once outside, I'll start using Fish Emulsion again. :-) Mike