Just wanted to mention that for me, 'Mrs. John Laing' doesn't need pegging the way the majority of hybrid perpetuals do to maximize bloom potential. I have two bushes of MJL and keep them pruned somewhat like a floribunda and this rose blooms just fine as an upright bush. I agree with you that some of the HP can be stingy bloomers. In fact, for me most of the ones I grow I consider mainly once-bloomers with the rare and highly unpredictable scattered fall blooms. But I have to say that in my climate, good rebloom is a rare commodity due to my short growing season and I may be more forgiving than others. Celeste

Sounds like a very good way to go. I am going to be doing my foundation as a hybrid of the method sugested in the instructions. I will be excavating an the area for the greenhouse so the foundation can be sunk in the ground. Since the area I will be putting it in is slightly sloped, the door will probably be close to flush with the ground (or at least the pavers that will be going between the greenhouse and the patio. The back of the foundation may only be sunk about 3 inches (externaly, because I will be leaveling the ground inside the greenhouse). Electrical, water, and the drier venting will be routed underground, under the base frame. After setting up Gardenerwantabe's corner reinforcements, I will be sandwiching the foundation frame between two 2x4's and then buring the frame/foundation. I think that if I use this suggestion of mixing the cement with the soil, it should help to anchor the foundation. If the cement/soil mixture is not going to be water porous, then I might run a drainage pipe under the wall as well so that I will have a gravel covered drainage pipe running down the middle of the greenhouse. Now I just have to wait for the soil to dry out so I can till the ground to excavate. (It has been drizzling all day now, but at least it will make digging up the sprinkler head I have to cap, easier). I feel like I am building a celler for the greenhouse. Perhaps I should rent a Bobcat ;) it would take about an hour to dig out a 10x12 area to 5 inches

Sheri my vents were hard to open and close they did not fit all that well but after 1 season I decided that I would not use them anyway. Most of the time our GH is in use we are heating it. The last few weeks in the spring before we put the plants in the ground we need to cool. I have a 16" fan in the peak of the rear and a motorized shutter in the front. On the cool but sunny days the fan will run for a short time this is handy if we are not going to be home if home I just open the door some and don't need the fan. Once it becomes warm enough to run the fan all afternoon then you want the roof vents closed anyway so I really have no need for the vents.

The colour of the "Chios" rose is described as pink-lilac and the size of the flowers as 8-10cm in diameter. I don't know if these fit with TROMN. It is easy to obtain a plant of the 'Chios' rose. I can have it budded bare root in late October and it will show how it looks in March. Chios does have a traditional cottage industry of producing deserts and jams from once bloomers, so called 'May roses' over here (probably damasks although I've never seen the roses) so this particular rose may be a chance hybrid between these and some more modern rose. It would be exciting though if it proves similar to your TROMN although I feel it is highly unlikely. There's also the chance that the nursery is just talking bull and they named the rose thuswise to give it an exotic air. Although this is a reputable nursery it does have a history of renaming well known roses... I don't trust merchants... Jeri, have you checked with European experts with regards to TROMN?