Rhaine, I had the very same thing done by a garden designer. It was over 2 years ago, but I watched alot of the construction on my slope. They used a sodcutter to remove all the grass in a wide strip. Then dug and made shelves and laid small gravel on the shelves. Then fit the thick (3in or more) flagstones onto the flat shelves and shoved and packed until they were solid. I ended up with 4 wide but shallow steps up, then a four ft paved 'landing', then 3 more steps up, etc. to the top. To finish off, they dug in edging material about a foot out from the flagstones and covered the bare dirt with mulch. Between the stones some of the bottom peagravel showed thru, so they covered that with a layer of pretty round and multicolored stones. (about ½ to 1 inch in diameter) My walkway is four to five feet across, and about 20 feet long from top to bottom of the slope. The flagstones are really, really large. Long and narrow strips fit under the tread part, and are sort of like the riser of a regular stairway. They started at the bottom, laid one large stone, then the riser, then the next stone overhanging the riser just slightly. It is a beautiful piece of work. I hope you go for it. Pondy

The entire structure would probably need to be furred out from the outside walls in, making thicker walls and deeper window wells, in order to insulate it to current building codes and to be able to pass inspection---AFTER you rewire it and replumb it to also pass inspection as a multi family structure. That will take away from what is already planned to be a pretty small residence area, but it is all necessary. Sprayed dense pack cellulose will have the greatest sound deadening properties, coupled with double layers of drywall on both sides of the internal walls. Your local municipality will need to determine if the walls need to be fire walls though, so check with them before even beginning the project. Be sure you have the proper insurance in place to protect yourself. Also double check to make sure that you only hire licensed and insured trades professionals for the project. Multi family buildings have additional requirements beyond single family homes due to more lives being at risk. And unless the homeowner is also a licensed trade, then he cannot work on the building's systems. To turn the building into a multi family dwelling, you will also need to file to have the zoning of the property changed. If you don't, and get caught by your neighbors, you'll face fines and possibly even jail time. There is a GREAT deal of personal risk to you if you do this project incorrectly or "off the books".

I'd have to check with my husband for the details (I should know, but we dealt with that set up 8 years ago and my memory is fuzzy.) I know we needed a separate circuit for each 1500W heater. My greenhouse is a Harbor Freight, so only 6mm twinwall polycarbonate. I think the Riga greenhouses use at least 8mm polycarbonate (and some models, maybe 10mm?) I think there are several good greenhouse heat calculators online, but I used this one to get a rough idea of what I might need, for my greenhouse in my climate: Greenhouse heat calculator I don't need both 1500W heaters most of the time, but I wanted to have the capacity for the rare times I do, because I keep the GH full of plants I've spent years growing. In Feb 2011 we had crazy record lows of -6F (our normal winter lows are in the teens.) My sliding greenhouse doors froze shut for a while, and I was so happy to have two heaters in place, working on thermostats. Even with rolling blackouts for days, they managed to keep the greenhouse above freezing, and I didn't lose any plants. Phew! My greenhouse houses my collection of cacti and succulents. Many could go lower, but to satisfy the "wimpy" kids I try to keep the gh above 42F. We used ¾” polyisocyanurate foil-faced insulation on the north wall to help with winter temps. In my climate cooling in the summer is a bigger challenge than heating in the winter. Most of it won't apply to your (much nicer!) Riga greenhouse, but I'll post a link to the last section of my blog on our Harbor Freight, since it shows the modest thermostat set up I cobbled together. Part Seven: Greenhouse Enhancements

Not only does the wall need braced internally, you need waterproofing from the exterior. The brick should not look saturated like that. There are multiple ways to brace the wall from further bowing. I would recommend the carbon fiber bracing over beams, but beams (either steel or treated timbers) work also. On cinder block you need a brace every 16 inches so every cinder block is supported. If you put a 4 foot level up against the wall, you can measure how many inches it has bowed. Looking at the pictures it looks braceable and not a complete rebuild of the wall. More info: http://www.uswaterproofing.com/learning-center/pros-cons-of-carbon-fiber-foundation-repair http://www.stablwall.com/