Hi Mangomoon, I'm not an expert in this stuff but i did build 2 concrete paver walkways a few years ago. Here's what I remember from my research back then and my experience. "Traditional" brick is made from clay. Good for walls and fireplaces but has some drawbacks for walkways and patios. One thing is that they can chip pretty easily. Modern "pavers" are made from concrete and are designed for strength and durability as walkways and patios. They are available in many different shapes, sizes and colors, even "brick" look-a-likes. There are many manufacturers and costs vary widely. Poured concrete is a relatively inexpensive way to create a patio or walkway but doesn't offer many design options. However, one can add color to concrete and there are concrete "stamps" that can be used to create a faux stone or brick look. Bricks and concrete pavers are usually installed on a base of sand and gravel. Sand is usually used to fill the gaps between joints. As such, they do allow some water permeability. Still, it is recommended that the project be gently sloped to allow water to run-off away from the nearest building structure. This will be more critical with poured concrete. Heat retention will depend largely on the color chosen. Lighter will be cooler. I'd be surprised of there is much of a difference between similarly colored bricks or concrete but I don't know for sure. I think brick and concrete will have the same "hardness". The skill level required to build a simple square patio with pavers isn't too high. It is more physically demanding than anything else. And, most of the work is in the base preparation. i.e. excavating, getting it level, put in a gravel base, then put in a level sand base. Indeed, the better the base preparation, the better the final job. If you use a concrete paver, installation is easy. If you don't have to make any cuts, no special tools are required. I'd suggest looking at some of the manufacturer sites for concrete pavers, if you think you might like to go that way. I used Unilock brand (others are Bolduc, Belgard, Nicolock...just Google "interlocking pavers"). Good luck...

I am laying down some pavers just to play around with design ideas, and I have a few photos showing the design elements below. I have some design questions. The basic design I want to pursue is to have a commercial paver patio and place a border around this of yellow real granite cobblestone. The cobblestone is too difficult to install and it would also be harder to walk on, so I am reserving it for strategic use as a border only, in order to make the patio look more custom than a pure paver design would suggest. So 90% of the patio will be commercial pavers, and maybe 10% will be a small border of cobblestones. The total patio dimensions are something around 10' x 10' (100 square feet). These cobblestones are about four inches cubed (4"x4"x4"), whereas the commercial pavers are Belgard Marseilles Stone (7"x7"x2"). The pavers serve as a walkway to a bench, from a walking path. Behind the bench, I have a small plastic storage bin that holds some accessories for the bench, like cushions which I want to keep out of the rain and elements. The questions: * What are some general design guidelines for how wide the patio should be, relative to the width of the bench that the patio is serving? I was figuring that the patio might extend about 12 inches on either side of the bench legs. Maybe more is better? * How should I provide the best base floor for the end pieces of the heavy concrete bench? The bench is made of concrete and the two end pieces are separate from the top piece. The bench is either bolted together, or some designs just use gravity to hold the heavy parts in place. As a result, the surface under the end pieces must be very flat and stable. If I put the end pieces on top of those patio pavers - which have an unfinished and rough textured surface - that is not an ideal platform for the bench. One solution would be to use a different paver design in just the area where the bench will live. I could use a paver that is perfectly flat in just the area where the bench is installed. But doing this will impact the aesthetics of the patio if the bench is later removed. I could lay some "flat" pavers down on top of the patio, thus providing a slightly elevated but relatively flatter surface for positioning the bench. But I am not sure that looks aesthetically pleasing, as those elevated pavers will be visible when the bench is in use. Another solution would be to "end" the patio just prior to the bench, then use a different paver install just under the bench end pieces. That would allow me to put those pavers in the ground and they would be better hidden while the bench is in use. But if the bench is removed later the pavers next to the patio might look a bit strange. One advantage to ending the patio prior to the bench install is that the cobblestone border of the patio would be fully visible on all four edges of the rectangular patio while viewing the patio and bench from the walking path. Otherwise, the back border of the patio would disappear behind the bench. * A similar question exists for the table surface in front of the bench, which is also made from concrete. Should I just attempt to stabilize it on top of the commercial pavers, or should I design in some flatter surface in the center of the patio and set up the table on that? I suppose I could put in some concrete tiles in that area with a pattern on them, to provide a kind of centerpiece to the patio. * In terms of the cobblestone border, I took one photo of the yellow tone cobblestones. I am thinking about sizing the border with two four-inch cobbles, creating approximately an eight-inch border section around the patio. What do others think of that use of the cobblestones? I could increase the border size to 12 inches or 16 inches. * I am also interested in opinions on possibly increasing the spacing between the cobbles in the border and planting ground cover there. If the groundcover takes off and overgrows the cobbles then that might tend to hide the natural beauty of the grain in the granite cobblestones.

Techo and Cambridge are (in my opinion) pretty comparable. I don't have any experience w/ Rinox. They're sold here, but we do so few paver jobs that I stick with what I know. The only thing I really don't like about Techo is theirs is a much more muted color palette. We did the plantings for a job where someone else did a Blu60 patio and I think the overall effect was pretty blah.

^^ that's not how interlocking pavers are done "but start laying the pavers at the front of the patio so you are not kneeling in your unfinished base." You can walk or drive over the gravel base as much as you want - it's solid and that's it's purpose. The sand you just screed a section at a time before you lay pavers. To start at the perimeter and work towards a house corner as the OP, you'd have to have strings and your measurements would need to be spot-on, which adds another layer of risk you are not square or wind up with slivers. "Use sand to raise or lower as you go, just like if you were mud setting a tile job." Mud setting, meaning place one piece and hammer it level, is for stone or large format slabs. When you screed your sand bed is perfect and placing the smaller interlocking pavers seldom requires an adjustment, when one does typically it's because you've set it down at an angle and the corner displaced some sand.