Thanks for the reply. I've attached the soil test results for this blueberry patch from Penn State. Exchangeable Cations for Mg is 0.5 % Saturation of the CEC for Mg is 3.1 I did two other soil tests in other parts of my property with different soil types. One area that is a vegetable garden that I limed and fertilized with Garden Tone last year. It's MG numbers are 1.8 and 18.4 and the Mg is a little high. The test says pH is 6.9 an I need 1.75 lbs of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet. The other area is old farm fields that are mostly clay and worn out. The Mg numbers there are 1.1 and 11.4. No amendments yet for that area. Soil test says 5 lbs/100 square foot of Calcitic Limestone plus 3.5 lbs of 10-10-10 plus 0.5 lbs of 0-46-0.

Daylilies like around 5.8 to 6.5 ph. I did some more reading and found out epsom salts won't change the ph, it is in the form that plants can use for growing. With that error corrected,I would still not apply it too often as Daylilies do well with fertilizing in spring and fall. They are not "heavy feeders".I have read where it can alter the tone of some "white" blooms.Search this forum for epsom salts and you will be able to read that. I have included 2 links for you, one you will have to copy and paste. http://hubcap.clemson.edu/~blpprt/lowerpH.html Here is a link that might be useful: Daylilies

Epsom's salts (magnesium sulphate) can be beneficial to plants that have a high magnesium demand - tomatoes and roses come to mind immediately - and it does promote the development of chlorophyl as schmoo mentions, but there is nothing in this amendment that improves flowering ability. And the routine use of an amendment like this can lead to an overabundance of specific elements that could produce counterproductive results unless you perform regular soil tests. In a PNW climate, partial shade is desirable for most hydrangeas - morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal. Too much shade can result in impaired bloom and too much sun will result in daily wilting in summer and bleaching of the foliage. It often takes a season or so for new shrubs to settle in, establish a good root system and perform as described. I wouldn't be overly worried about LinR's lack of blooms unless it suffered any winter dieback (possible in our bizarre weather last winter) or it is receiving excessive fertilization. Both of these can affect bloom potential. Most likely it just needs additional time. And I'd avoid applying any sort of amendments or fertilizing unnecessarily. Test you soil first and apply only as the test indicates deficiencies are present. FWIW, a regular mulching with compost or other quality organic matter will reduce the need for pretty much any supplemental amending or fertilizing and is most beneficial for the soil organisms.

And since Epsom Salts is magnesium sulfate there'a also the possibility that the growing medium was acidified with too much ES, which isn't positive either. Mg++ is the central unit in the chlorophyll molecule and in areas where the tourists want to see green palm trees swaying in the breeze it's not uncommon for the locals to spray the palms with Epsom Salts. As for me, Epson Salts is best for bathing sore and tired feet. LOL I've never used it on tomatoes and don't plan to in the future. If soils are lacking Mg++ as determined by a soil test, OK, but for me at least, that would be it with the Epsom Salts. Carolyn