It's quite dry under my pines. I do water with soaker hoses under there when it gets really dry but the jetbead survives quite nicely most of the time without supplemental water. I strongly recommend the use of soaker hoses in dry areas. I use lots of them in the garden. Jetbead can be hard to find in an average nursery. You may have to get a local nursery to order it for you. I got mine in a specialized woodland nursery. I don't think I've ever seen it in a run-of-the-mill type nursery around here. The viburnums that you see in the pictures are on the north side of the garage. The ones that flower the most are the ones that are on the ends and get more light. If I was planting them again I'd plant the American Highbush Cranberries (Viburnum trilobum) instead of the European ones I have. Mine have little to no fall color - the American ones have better fall color. Arrowwood (Viburnum dentatum) is the viburnum that is listed as most shade tolerant but it has blue-black fruit and I like the vivid red berries and lacecap flowers of the highbush cranberries better. I do worry about the spread of the viburnum beetle that is heading this way and decimating viburnums... Flowering currant (Ribes aureum) might be a good option for you. I don't grow it because Ribes species are an intermediate host for White Pine Blister Rust and I don't want to risk getting my white pines infected with it! If you don't have white pines, it might be something to try. Also, what about a flowering dogwood? American Elder (Sambucus canadensis) also grows in fairly heavy shade - I use it to hide an ugly garden shed! Things will flower much better with more light but you never know until you try something. I have a variegated weigelia nearby the Jetbead and it blooms amazingly well although it only gets an hour or two of morning sun slanting in under the pine branches. Is your shade from trees or from a building?

Suggestions: - azalea is evergreen. - buddleia is not but the branches are there all winter until you cut the plant back in early Spring. The flowers are awesome for about three to four months. Looking out your window and seeing the butterflies on the buddleia -- a treat!

would be under the eave, so a part shade/shade situation. Would need to either grow to be no more than 3 ft. wide and preferably 12' tall. ==>> foundation plantings are planted to hide the foundation .. not on the foundation ... in my world.. if you are planting under an eave ... you are TOO CLOSE to the foundation .... conifers are trees.. they NEVER STOP GROWING .. ever ... all of them will eventually hit the eave how about a pic.. maybe its much different than what i am thinking ... though west coast MI is basically z6 ... i would not push it long run ... and go with a steady z5 plant... ken

I've had good luck with winter gem boxwoods here in zone 5. Also have had green velvet without a problem with the cold. I think these are both varieties of Korean boxwood. I have lost one or two over the years to what I believe was a fungal disease, but most years they look great. I don't happen to be using them as Foundation plants but you could. I also have had no problem growing densiformis yews in partial shade. Probably a prosaic plant but it works and stays fairly small. Maybe three feet wide and two feet tall. I do use some of these as Foundation plantings. Obviously you would want to combine several different types of plants. Annabelle hydrangeas are also popular here as foundation plants in shady spots.