Everyone has different ideas on this. Me, I don't prune too much until they start to bear, but I do tie down limbs. For you though, I think you would like to remove those extra limbs. You probably want a nice looking tree in your yard or area and there is nothing wrong with that. I don't spray year old trees in my area, but I don't know where you are or what happens there. Glowingstar is a nice peach.

That is correct Konrad, they have no branches yet. I wonder if some of the buds swelling down low may simply be a leaf or two or if they will all branch out over the season. This whole apple tree growing thing is new to me. I originally figured that if I get rid of any low branches, the tree will push more growth up higher, where I want it. However, I am not sure, so that is why I posted the question. Paully

You don't need to chop them down if branches are positioned where you want them. I think you should certainly remove branches more than half the diameter of the trunk at point of their attachment- especially if there aren't 3 branches around that size, spreading in different directions. I usually remove branches more than a third. Oversized branches can choke out the leader and imbalance the shape of the tree. Sometimes heading back main (scaffold) branches helps to generate secondary branching.

Brian: You are faced with the main challenge seen on multi-grafted trees, the two varieties on the left are more vigorous than the others. You also say you want it much larger. That's not normal for cherry growers who are usually more concerned about netting for bird control and keeping the fruit within reach. But maybe you can grow a large top to feed the birds and shade your lawn and have a lower section for the kids. Richland is a big fruit area so maybe your birds will have other places to eat. If it were my tree I'd mainly cut back J and G, the two vigorous varieties, or in 10 yrs that is about all you will have left. I'd cut out those two vigorous top shoots on J and leave the three shoots below including one you are cutting out. This will slow that variety and spread the tree somewhat. And if you really want to even things up leave I and H as the top laterals on that variety. Then on G cut out the top shoot leaving two outward facing laterals as the new top. This repeated each yr will keep the varieties in balance. The cuts you have proposed are just going to slow bearing without balancing the tree or doing any significant shaping. Better to spread and shorten by cutting to laterals headed in the right direction. If you just want the biggest tree possible as soon as possible then don't prune at all. The Fruitnut