For the first 2-3 years you need to make sure when the new branches sprout out that the angles are kept at 45 degrees or less from horizontal, and if not, then prune them off or weigh or tie them down so that they are. Clothes pins can be handy for this -- clip a clothespin to the central leader with the side of the spring pressing down on the new branch while it is still young and green to keep the angle low. Another thing is when the branches become too crowded, you may need to do a little thinning. But for the most part, young trees just need time to grow out. It will be a couple years before they produce any fruit unless they are already several years old at planting time. One other thing I like to do is if the trees grow up way too tall -- I mean like 9 feet high, so that you won't be able to reach the fruit up there -- then you may wish to lop the top off each year so that the fruiting wood stays low enough for you to be able to pick it later in the tree's life. I guess I've assumed that you want a pyramid-shaped central leader tree. You could also do an open-center vase-shaped tree. There are different techniques with many books and resources about each. Figure out what you think will work best for your orchard and stick with it. Have fun with it.

You can't really do that with peach trees as it may kill it. Only new wood can be counted on to generate new buds next year. The tree was trained to be an open center from close to the ground. If you have squirrels or coons (and no adequate chase dog) and don't plan an electric fence you may want to tape up a branch to grow vertical so you can start your scaffolds at about 4'. This will allow you to attach something to the trunk which will prevent these animals from getting up the tree.

Hi Ed- I will lend some experience to my 4-1 apple. Last year my 4-1 looked like this on the main scaffold of all the 4 types. It was almost like the tree was damaged somehow but the ends were just like your tree and leafed out properly. I had probably a foot of just branch with no leafing. I waited until late November and cut them back quite substantially and it leafed out properly, flowered and now has apples. So, I would probably just let it go until dormant, then cut. It worked for me. With a tree that young its really about the root development and removing 30% of the leaves can't help early summer.

Clare: Open center, hands down. Your newly-planted trees are already the same height as my pear trees that have been in the ground for 15 years -- and it's not because of the rootstock, it's pruning and training. I would not have purchased and planted trees of this size, since I prefer to begin training well before they achieve that height. Horizontal branches are fine; vigorous central growth is not. Tying the branches down is one technique, branch spreaders is another. To control growth, try pruning in late summer. European pears are often slow to begin bloom and fruiting, but I have found that training to a vase shape and pruning in summer reduces the time required. Nurseries often like to sell very tall trees at premium prices since many people believe taller is better. The opposite is the case. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA