Compost, this Tone, that Tone

11 years ago

Hi folks,

I really enjoy posting here. You all have a lot of good insight but mostly, we share the same passion.

I'm trying to simplify my "home nursery." I call it this because I have a lot of different trees, shrubs, perennials, etc. around my home in Southern Maine. What I want to simplify is the method in which I take care of my garden family. I love the simplicity of visiting each of my 200 + varieties and watching them grow. I could walk around my house 50 times in garden bliss.

Let me get to the point here. Reading posts and articles on their care is very confusing because it is all a matter of preference given the basics are met. With that said, I want to save money, keep it organic (like grandma or the old farmer would)and let the wildlife enjoy it like I do. I know that one size doesn't fit all but I am going to throw some questions around for you to help me sort this out. My confusion is similar to when you have to pick out a dressing at the supermarket and there are about 100 varieties in front of you....ahhh!! BTW-I don't want to make my own compost at this time short of keeping grass clippings and some fall mulched leaves on the lawn.

In "general," what are the basic guidelines I need in order to have a beautiful, healthy and natural looking landscape over time. I'm not in a hurry nor do I want to show off to the Joneses. I want to stick to the basic necessities required. In other words, I want to avoid too much TLC. Thank you all in advance : )

1. Minimum water requirements?

2. Minimum requirements for fertilizer, mulch, compost, this Tone, that Tone, this meal, that meal, manure, etc.,etc?

3. Minimum insect and disease control requirements?

4. Minimum pruning requirements?

5. Minimum PH, N-P-K requirements? I have neutral/slightly acidic maine soil. A bit more on the clay side.

6. Light, I got this one covered!

7. Minumum requirements for a decent looking lawn. Grass clippings? I gave up on all the this step that step programs. I'm surprised they don't give a diploma out for completing it after all the $$ you spend.

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Comments (10)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
you want a thesis .. crimminey ...

let me simplify it for you .. SHRUBS 'NEED' NOTHING.. after becoming established.... though a little of this or that wont hurt ... but as you suggests.. i am a cheapo ... the ONLY cost is buying it.. and after that.. they should be cost free ...

that is why i planted them ...

they are simply not that foo foo .. presuming we are not talking about the foo foo types ...

a little water in SEVERE drought .. OK ...

as for fert/food .. forget it ...

mulch and compost is always a plus.. but NEVER requisite

grass.. water in drought. and quit feeding it .. i didnt understand this.. as a lawn warrior .. until i moved to 5 acres.. and found out.. if i didnt feed it.. and water it.. it browned out for 10 weeks in summer.. who cares.. lol .. no mowing ... and it comes back ...

you are waaaayyyy over thinking shrubs.. relax.. enjoy them.. and ignore them .. IMHO

ken
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
11 years ago
What you are asking for is the essence of the art of gardening, boiled down to 25 words or less :-) As Ken has indicated in his inimitable manner, there is not a lot you need to worry about. The emphasis will always be on 'right plant, right place' and good soil conditions. A loose, well-draining and fertile soil with a slightly acidic pH is the most desirable for the widest range of plant types. If your soil is not at that loose, fertile and properly well-drained stage yet, mulching on an annual basis will make it so over time, especially if you use compost. Make your own or purchase a local commercially prepared compost, often the product of municipal yard waste recycling. Mulching will also reduce the need for a lot of watering (reduces surface evaporation and increases moisture retention), helps keep weeds in check and if compost is used, can go a long way in increasing disease resistance as well as elimintaing the need for additional fertilizers.

Group plants requiring the same growing conditions (sun, shade, water) together and select varieties based on their optimum mature size and site accordingly. This should reduce pruning requirements to the minimum of removing wayward branching and dead or diseased wood. Watering is a factor of soil conditions, weather and specific plant requirements - there is no set rate or magic key for watering. You just have to pay careful attention to the plants and the conditions until you get the hang of it. Typically after establishment (or the first couple of growing seasons in the ground), the need for supplemental irrigation for most plants is greatly reduced.

No garden is NO maintenance-free but by doing some effort before planting and researching the needs of the plants you want/like ahead of time, you can reduce the amount of time you need to spend tending and increase the amount of time just enjoying.

I think this may be a bit more than 25 words!! :-))
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mainegard3
Original Author
11 years ago
Great feedback! I do appreciate the feedback. I guess I'm getting suckered into all the marketing of these products that can do this or that. I could essentially by all of the tone stuff like holy tone, plant tone, tree tone, coppertone, you get my jist. But are they necessary vs a layer of good compost and pine/cedar mulch per year. With Maine being acidic, I most likely don't need to add any acidity. If I want to condition the soil over time, I probably don't need any fertilizer, organic or chemical. I would think compost would be enough. Then there is the disease/insect prevention products that could potentially save your trees, shrubs and your kitchen sink. Do they really prevent or should I let nature do its thing? Again, it's the marketing hype I'm caught up in, overthinking!! Granted there is marketing buying the plants but this is more of a preference/real estate thing. Thanks!
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
11 years ago
The best disease/insect prevention is selecting hardy plants suitable for your area. Even with some plants prone to disease issues (ie., lilac blight or powdery mildew), you should be able to find disease resistant selections. The rule of thumb is not treating or spraying for either insects or diseases until you know you have a problem and identified exactly what that problem is.

And you are correct - most of what we think we 'know' about fertilizers is marketing hype by the Scotts/MiracleGros of the world. Under most soil conditions, fertilizing trees and shrubs is unnecessary unless you see signs of specific nutrient deficiencies. And a good organic mulch, especially a compost-type mulch, pretty much eliminates most nutrient issues.
jimbobfeeny
11 years ago
The best thing I've ever done for my plants is nothing! I do water if I've just planted or if it has been really dry. Other than that, I just let the things grow. The power company left a huge pile of woodchips last year, so I've been mulching everything - I would never go out of my way to buy mulch. And, no, plants don't need much if any fertilizer. I sometimes add some starter feed if it's kicking around.
lisanti07028
11 years ago
The Holly Tone, Garden Tone, Plant Tone, etc. to which you refer are from Epsoma's line of organic fertilizers and are, if you do need fertilizer, excellent at feeding your plants and your soil.They've been around for years and years, at least in NJ, where they're headquartered, and have a good selection of some of the supplements that HD has never heard of.
I just didn't want them to get lumped in with the snake oil salesmen.
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
I guess I'm getting suckered into all the marketing of these products that can do this or that.

===>>> BINGO.. BANGO ... the light has come on ... and he is emerging from the tunnel of marketing guilt .. lol ...

never forget.. THEY ARE NOT CHILDREN... they need not be fed.. bathed.. educated ... or anything else.. associated with personification of inanimate objects ... otherwise known as Anthropomorphism

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: if you have nothing better to do .. lol
botann
11 years ago
In my ornamental garden I choose plants that don't have a serious problem with bugs or diseases in the first place. That eliminates spraying off the git go.
On my ten acres I have a lot of different environments from sunny and dry, to shady and damp. I plant plants where they will do the best without a lot of maintenance. Sunny and dry is a relative term here in the PNW. ;-)
Once established, I don't have to water my plants, even with our dry summers.
Mike
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
11 years ago
bingo again ...

now that i am past 50 ..i am seeing the wisdom of selective removal of PIA plants ..

i mean really.. if i have to shear you once or twice a year.. burn pile

are you afflicted repeatedly with bugs.. burn pile ...

you knock my hat off while mowing.. i will prune you back once.. piss me off again.. burn pile .. lol ..

need your ph adjusted.. get over it.. or die.. i have a burn pile ... lol

you burn in too much sun.. if small enough.. i will move you .. ONCE ... if too large. and too much work to do that.. cut at ground level .. apply round up to stump.. and see above re: burn pile ...

you began on the premise of winding down.. so wind down the garden ... get rid of that high maintenance girlfriend ... she is not worthwhile. in the long run .. they all eventually get ugly .. lol .. dump her now.. before she starts costing you real money ... [same with high maintenance men also .. lol]

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: are you confused as to what a burn pile is?????
alexis717_df
11 years ago
Ok, totally OT. Ken you are a hoot. "Get over it . . Or die!" I SO agree. 4 years ago I got a metal sign with stake for garden that said "Grow Damn It!".2 years later I got a matching one that says "Die, see if I care".

All excellent advise here BTW.

Compost, this Tone, that Tone

Comments (10)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

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