Another of my favorite tricks is to use a power strip instead of a switch. Remember, I have a dry corner (80% humidity but no water being sprayed). A switch is more trouble to install than taping up a cheap power strip so that only one outlet is usable and then the circuit is plugged into it. The lights to the area end up as a male plug, as I enter the area at night I click on the circuit beaker of the power strip and the lights go on. All the fans are housed on a strip, the pump for the water and supplemental electric heaters all have their own strip. All of these strips plug into a 'Master strip' which connects to the power source. Power strips are slightly cheaper but that's not the point. There is only a minimal savings there but they are so much easier to work with than a real switch witch has to be hard-wired. An in-law of mine is a professional 'Handy man' who does a lot of electricity work. He laughs at my antics but has looked it all over and declared it safe. He comments that he wishes he could solve problems like I do, but of course that cannot happen as he has to do it 'right'. He also offered to do my plumbing in copper which would be the professional way to do it. I declined, I want it in PVC as then I can modify and repair it with ease. We each have to live in our comfort zone, different for every one of us. I would love to hear of tricks or shortcuts other people are using. Nick

Well, I found a leak--drip, drip, drip, don't know how I missed it unless I made it when cranking on quick connect union (which is still jammed). My intake pipe is 2" and goes to 1.5" pump connect, glued in since there were no threads to connect otherwise. I recall but can't find, instructions from Mike_Il about applying glue over the leak and running the pump to suck glue in? Any recollection? I am envious everytime I see your tight, tidy pump house, wishing I had done way better, planned better, had the knowledge to do it. I may be looking at major pipe surgery here. Question now is "What do I do where the pipe is glued inside the pump intake and is too short with reduction fitting to add anything. Maybe I'll have to order a new housing and start from scratch! Meanwhile, back at the union coupling and back at the cornmeal I threw in for my pond leak. Maybe this is the price of misguided winter ponding...such is life. Mike

It will work with with a cut angle on it. It may be a little more difficult to get it to go in though. If you can, bevel the end of the pipe to make it slide through the uniseal easier. I use a grinder and it does a great job. Also, spray pam or windex on the pipe to make it slide through easier.

Horton, Thanks. They are conventional knife or gate valves-just my description is a bit awkward. They are installed horizontally, which may explain something about the gunk in there? Two-inch "flex" pvc comes up from the ground and is attached to the valve. The top of the valve attaches to rigid abs elbow. There is nothing flexible at this time of year. I thought to loosen the valve cover, wedge it open slightly and try to blow gunk out. But, I fear damaging a gasket or something else. It is questionable if I can separate the two cover pieces enough to do anything else. This whole suction line assembly, installed in a huge rush just a year ago in the cold by a first-time amateur, needs to be replaced and should have been this past summer. Since I intend to run all winter I should just leave the valves open and leave them alone as I can do any brief maintenance, like clean leaf basket, by turning pump off briefly? I'm sure you have disassembled these valves. How do they seat, what's in there? Is it worth trying to repair or should I just order a couple new ones (cheap enough)come spring? These posts help me find my own answers sometimes along with the advice of fellow ponders. Tendency to over-worry seems to be one of my senior traits. Any more thoughts or guidance will be much appreciated. Mike