An acre is too big to use Starbucks for much. You might be able to use other organic materials like ground grains (such as soybean meal, cracked corn, etc) as fertilizer and to add some organic matter. For a lawn that size, it would be difficult to spread compost unless you had access to a compost spreader of some sort and they tend to be pretty expensive. In Springfield, you've got a cool season grass, probably Kentucky bluegrass (KBG) and maybe some tall fescue and/or perennial rye mixed in. I would not try seeding this spring. You need to wait a little while due to the weed killer, so if you tried to seed, by the time it germinated, you'd be starting to see summer temperatures. Any grass you planted this spring would have a tough time getting through the summer. What I would do is to concentrate on the weeds and on making the grass and soil as healthy as possible. Raise the mower deck and mow at around 3.5-4 inches (or the highest setting of the mower if it doesn't go that high). Always mulch mow. If you water, water deeply and infrequently so that the grass can develop good roots, but the weeds don't stay moist long enough to germinate. Don't aerate now. Instead, aerate this fall in preparation for overseeding. That will help provide better soil contact for the seeds. What you'll want to do is just before seeding (late summer/early fall, as soon as the heat breaks), mow as short as you can. This stresses the existing grass and gives the new grass more of a chance to germinate before the existing grass needs to be mowed. Core aerate, making multiple passes if you can. Overseed with good seed, roll lightly if you have a roller, top dress with a thin layer of compost. Water 2-3 times a day for about 10 minutes for 3 weeks, then gradually cut back on the frequency and lengthening the duration until you're watering once a week when there's no rain.

Already id'ed on another forum as Ground Pine, Lycopodium sp. This picture makes the plant look huge - like it was a tree!!

Something in the Apiaceae. I'm not familiar with Carol23's suggestion but it looks a possibility from images.

I'm using a matte subway in an off-white, but I selected a grout as close to the tile color as possible. It was all about what I was trying to accomplish for the tile. I would not change grout based on gloss/matte. I would go by the color that gave me the overall look I wanted with the tile. The subways I'm using are handmade, so they have wavery, imperfect edges, and they're probably close to 1/2" thick. I want to enhance the shape/texture of the tile itself, so I opted for a grout that would disappear. If you want to enhance the presence of the tile a bit more, since yours has a lower profile, then I think a light grey would look nice, especially with the countertops. Have you looked into the beveled subways? They might give a nice enhanced tile look, too, similar to the use of darker grout.