There are some "absolutes" posted above that aren't correct. The intents were fine, but the end messages give false info. As formandfoliage alluded to, there are times that certain "sealers" have been proven to be beneficial. They definitely have their disadvantages in typical applications, but that doesn't meant they are always the wrong thing to do. Just don't use them unless you are sure they are needed, and usually they are not the best solution. Another point that is a little misguided is that sap bleeding doesn't hurt trees. While it's true that most healthy trees can endure the process without any problem, it's not true that it doesn't stress the trees or atttract problems in some cases. The process costs the tree stored energy, and this can be a problem for a weak tree or one faced with higher than normal disease/pest pressures. There can also be additional pest and disease issues brought on by bleeding. Some pests are attracted to tree wounds (particularly when the wound is bleeding) of certain species of trees. So, even though it's not normally a problem for most healthy trees, it's just not true that bleeding is completely harmless.

Edzard, I think the 'my area issue' is far more widespread than one would like to believe! It seems every town and city I visit I see evidence of topping, poor pruning and homeowner hacking. I really believe the homeowners are just not in tune with proper practices for a couple of reasons; first being, they think professional consultation is "too expensive", Ive heard this too many times. Second, they just don't seem to think that poor pruning harms the trees. "Just look at the new growth sprouting from where they were cut, must have done something good". Its been a tough sell. I should also say that yes there are a very few interested in the aesthetic pruning of various trees and shrubs. The Urban Foresters I think are to a degree, but I think their contribution, as you say, is to an area rather than individual trees. So does one have to prune each tree in the area to an aesthetic level? or would a fine prune of all the trees in the area create a more aesthetically pleasing environment. I do feel aesthetic pruning has its place, There are some magnificent new and established homes and gardens that when the plantings around them are maintained to a higher degree (aesthetically), they look and feel that much better. In addition to increasing property value as well. This applies to neighborhoods, parks and public gardens as well. Finally, where DO people go for information or to learn how to maintain their own material? Take some time to look in the phone book, call a number of professionals and ask a million questions! If there is a maintained garden in the area go and watch and ask questions of the gardener. Sometimes I think patience is lacking when people want this type of work performed. Floyd

you can say the same thing about blue spruce, leyland cypress, white pines like pinus strobus can get very big, lots of conifers With the result that badly overgrown plantings are very common. In my area many structures have tall, out of scale forest conifers looming over them - every year winter wind storms are followed by news reports showing cleft rooms and smashed vehicles, with long, tall branches or trunks lying through or over them. Would you take a picture with 5 or 10 different subjects in view? It is the same with a garden scene, if there is too much going on the impression produced is of a riot or jumble rather than restfulness. Notice that in Japanese gardens - which are generally thought supposed to be serene yet may often employ multiple different visual elements in one area - that the evergreen woody plants are frequently pruned or sheared, with the same treatment being given to all the pines or all the azaleas etc. in each area. This produces a homogenizing effect.

Houzz may one day kick me out over my low opinion of the site and people using it but I give my honest opinion and refrain from pretending I know things I actually don't. I only hang out because I enjoy visiting with a handful of wonderful folks and picking knowledge up from some that have expertise in various aspects of gardening. I realize you are asking for a roadmap but it requires alot of time and effort for savy gardeners to work out a plan for their own situation and less than 1 in a thousand can do it from a thousand miles away having never walked through your yard,much less doing some experiments. The ONLY PLACE you can get you road map is hiring a professional landscaper or read books written for homeowners. Yards you see that aren't lacking got that way and stay that way because homeowner loves working in the dirt or they hired professionals to install and/or maintain their yard. You stated you don't want to work in dirt any more than necessary so that points to spending money for someone doing it for you. Professional landscaper does not include 80% of trucks towing trailers with mowers and blowers on them. From what I've gathered here's what I can tell you. Buy the book written by Neil Sperry that is specifically about Texas soils, weather and adapted plants. Other than a few plants adapted to heavy clay all plants will benefit form large additions of compost. Yes,compost can be worked in with shovel,hoe and rake where tiller risks damaging utilities. Other than a few annuals,you need to wait until fall to plant trees,shrubs and most other perrinials and late winter/early Spring for turf. Use the time to prepare soil rather than waiting and trying to do it all at once. If you haven't already figured it out, your soil is impossible to work unless moisture is just right,which is seldom. Revise your vocabulary to say "artificial turf" when referring to non-living ground covers and "sod" for grass blankets for establishing turf/lawn grass. St Augustine is the only grass adapted to shade and your other conditions,,,,,,,sometimes. I say sometimes because there's various degrees of shade and there comes a point where St Augustine struggles. There are a few well adapted ground covers (some very low maintenance) where shade is too deep for St Augustine. I recommend Coventon's Nursery located 5518 President George Bush Freeway,Rowlett. They have trained staff to help choose plants,reccomend soil amendments and recommend reliable landscapers. In case you aren't aware , your soil is horrible for building homes on. The problem is exacerbated by swings in moisture content causing soil to swell and shrink. You can help by making sure water doesn't pond near foundation, irrigating during dry periods to prevent soil shrinking.