Craftsmen operators are equipped with adjustable pressure sensing controls. There is one sensor that measures the amount of pressure the operator exerts on the door while closing and another that does the same thing for the opening cycle. These adjusting knobs for these sensors are usually found on the rear panel of the operator. They have circular arrows around them to indicate "increasing" and "decreasing" the "down" pressure and the "UP" pressure. As the weather gets colder, overhead doors become harder to move. You need to SLIGHTLY increase the amount of downpressure needed to overcome this seasonal resistance. Turn that adjustment a tiny bit and then signal the door to go down. If this is a seasonal adjustment, then you should not have to move this knob more than a quarter turn. If you do, then I suspect that you have an issue with the door itself that needs correcting. Disconnect the door from the operator by using the emergency release pull cord. Try the door manually. The door must roll smoothly in its travel from the floor to the full open position. If there is any drag or binding at some point, then that needs to be corrected. Therefore, your operator is not at fault. It's doing exactly what it is supposed to do. What many people seem to forget is this. An electric door opener is designed to open and close a door that is in perfect working order. They were never intended to overcome poor maintenance, no maintenance, broken/bent/twisted parts or parts that are rusted. If the door feels balky to you when in manual mode, then hire a serviceman to correct that/those problem/s. If you don't, all you end up doing is shortening the life of your operator. When that happens, you will still have to spend the money to make those repairs because no reputable door company will put a new operator on a door that isn't working 100%.

I also think it could be the lights. The research I have seen (think it was from the U. of Alaska) said that "cool white" fluorescents work better because they put off more UV than those advertised as "grow lights". The more light the better, the closer the better, up to an inch or two from the leaves. I use the 4' two x t-12 fixtures with 40 watt tubes, two fixtures running parallel. Usually you can get two potted plants side by side under this setup. Also setting them outside in warmer weather if you can, sounds like a good idea. Just my 2 cents - Rick

Hi Don, We are trying to attach 4 wires to 3 screws on that part we're trying to fix. We've tried so many combinations that we wrote them down to keep track. Sometimes nothing happens, sometimes the "circuit" board that we're trying to connect these wires to gets hot and the motor makes a strange sound. The door opens perfectly well with the remotes and button by the door to the house. It's this button by the garage door itself that connects to the keypad that's giving us the problem. What a pain, a garage door repairman came by and said because the unit is 20 years old, we should just replace it to the tune of $500. We're still willing to keep trying, if you are.

you definitely want to seal the holes in the wall. i would also put in a french drain under the bed, with perf pipe directing the water down to at least the lower sidewalk, but at an angle so as to not flow back into the garage. BTW, teh cost for this would be probably less than 100.00 if you did it yourself. cheaper to try it first than to do concrete. EVEN if you do concrete, you will have to seal those holes. water will still get under there. at least by directing it away you lessen the amount against the house.