My cucumbers, zucchini, and okra all sprouted in 2 days. Now (4th day), my tomatoes are sprouting. Only thing that hasn't sprouted yet are my peppers and eggplant. Tomatos should be started from seed 5 or 6 weeks before being set out. Some start earlier if they plan for large plants (needs more than a floro light can provide). You ideally want 6-8" plants when put into the ground. Peppers you want to start about 8 weeks before planting outside. Not sure about eggplant or Okra as I don't grow or eat either. Your cukes and zukes are way too early to have started if you are looking mid to late May for plant out. You want plants that just set their 3rd set of true leaves at plant out time. Any later and explosive root growth begins and being in a small container limits root growth not to mention it's hard to get enough light to them as they grow huge. Starting 3 weeks before plant out date is good. Where I'm a little confused is what to do next. I understand that I should wait until the seedlings produce a "true pair" of leaves and then transplant them into bigger containers. How big? Is 4" big enough? I need to grow these guys until around memorial day before they are planted without the danger of frost. Also I could use some recommendations as to where to get some cheap 4" pots. I like to use 20 oz. disposable cups from the store. You can also use smaller for the peppers, but the 20 oz cups with a drain hole poked in the bottom have served me well over the years. After I transplant the seedlings into their pots, am I supposed to feed them? What can I feed them with? I have access to horticultural lime (white fine powder), alfalfa meal, bone meal, coffee grounds and corn meal (I bought some a few months ago and left it in the fridge, does it go bad?). Correct me if I'm wrong but I wouldn't want to use corn meal until the seedlings are more developed because it inhibits growth? Anyways how much of what and how (tea or mulch)? Yes, once true leaves grow the seedling is on it's own and the comfort of the seed is gone. For most veggies it is enough to give any old fert at half strength one time before planting out. Nothing you listed is good for seedlings indoors, but fine outside. For any containerized plant seedling or not a water soluble fertilizer is preferred as it gives nutrients right away and doesn't rely upon natural processes to make the nutrients available. I noticed that you used worm castings in the starting media. That should be enough until they are planted outside. It has had time to start releasing nutrients so you should be just fine. Lastly once again I'm growing zucchini, cucumbers, eggplant, tomatoes, okra and peppers. I will be planting them in a newly created lasagna garden (which I will be creating soon). Is there anything I want to avoid putting in the lasagna garden that could stun their growth or burn them? I will be using straw, leaves, coffee grounds, and 6 month old horse manure. Sounds good. Keep any eye on leaf coloration though. If it lightens/yellows add some fast acting fertilizer. Lack of Nitrogen *may* be a concern in the first season due to the browns composting. If so add the corn or coffee grounds in greater amounts.

"Cool soils that are low in initial fertility are conducive to root-growth" - this is why my seedlings and my recent transplants are not fertilized heavily at first. As the seedling establishes new roots in the mix, I increase the fertilizer incrementally - generally starting with a 1/4 strength dose and working up from there. Foliar Feeding is inefficient for the most part, and really only benefits certain plants at certain times of the season when growth is happening so quickly that the normal root-pathways can't keep up with the demands of the plant. In other words, there is a very narrow window for the practical and useful application of Foliar Nutrients. Not all plants have foliar pathways that can even take up nutrients, nor are all nutrients in a form that can pass through those pathways. Temperature, humidity, and time of day will also affect the nutrient uptake. Fertilizing via root-pathways remains the most efficient means of nutrient delivery. If the real issue with the plant is that the roots aren't taking up nutrients, then the root-issue ought to be addressed. In containers, that issue most often has to do with a soil/mix that does not allow for proper watering and drainage. Once the soil-mix is sorted out, root-health and nutrient uptake shouldn't be an issue. Josh

Diakon, First of all, I should say that I don't apply fertilizer until the seedlings start looking like real live little tomato plants ... that is well after the second set of true leaves have spread out and the 3rd set is well emerged. But the original question was "do you feed your seedlings prior to planting out" and I assume this question is in response to many persons advising against or saying they don't fertilizing seedlings prior to planting them into the garden. This has been a long-standing argument at this forum. Secondly, my tomato seedlings always have a bit of purple underleaf. And I attribute that to insufficient light and phosphorus (plants need both) for effective photosynthesis. The florescent lights I use to produce seedlings indoors will keep plants growing, but it's just not the same as sunlight. And sterile starter media commonly used to start seedlings do not contain sufficient phosphorus needed for the conversion of light energy to chemical energy during photosynthesis. So, when I see a purple tinge to the underside of the seedling leaves, I don't get all worked up. It'll eventually go away when the seedlings are hardened off and set in the garden. However, if the underside of the leaves want to roll over or curl under from the tips, I think the plant is cryin' out for nutrients and more light. This seems to occur as the second leaves become distinctly formed and the third leaves are partially or halfway emerged and the seedlings are four to six five inches tall. If, in conjunction with the purple underleaf, the cotyledons (seed petals = sole source of initial nutrients for sprouts in a sterile medium) are beginning to yellow, I know for sure it's a nutrient thing since that's a sign of nitrogen deficiency (the plant is pulling nitrogen from the cotyledons up to the growing tip). Nitrogen deficiency at this stage can cause stunting ... and I think continuity of growth makes for better adult plants. Also, I've noticed that when these obvious symptons of nutrient deficiency appear in tomato seedlings, a light dose of liquid fertilizer and an increase in the light level always spurs an overnight improvement in appearance and condition of the seedlings. Now, interveinal chlorosis (lacey looking yellow and grey-green leaf tops) seems to accompany cramped, soggy plug cells when the seedlings are obviously too far along to remain in the intial seed cells. Seedlings will take on this appearance in plug cells when other seedlings of the same type and age transferred to 3 or 4-inch pots will look vigorous and healthy ... and when everything else is equal with regard to temperature, light, etc. While fertilizer will supply the micronutrients and nitrogen the seedlings are calling for, bottom watering applications just compound the saturated condition of the rootball. So, the best thing at that point, in my opinion, is to pot up and water in the new medium with a low dose of 15-30-15 plus a small amound of Ironite (or similar). Now ... that's just what works for me. Others have different approaches and swear by different products. I'm sure there are home-brews and organic products that work as well for folks who prefer them as synthetic fertilizers work for me. I'm just answering the question the best way I know from experience. If I come across organic type nutrient suppliments that work as well, I'd gladly use them too.

I think at least some of the answer to your question depends on what one uses to start the seeds in the first place. I use soil-less/peat based mixes to start seeds, and the ones I happen to like frequently have little to nothing added in the way of nutrients. For the mixes *I* use, I find I get the best results with a little sparing fertilization. Otherwise, I'll occasionally see some slowdown in growth or even some minor leaf yellowing if I forget to do it. For Metro Mix or Pro-Mix, what I do is use a seaweed or fish emulsion at around 1/3 strength for the first necessary watering after germination. Thereafter, I may fertilize once again about a month later. For that fertilizing, I generally use a little bit of seaweed/fish and also add no more than a teaspoon (*not* a tablespoon*) per gallon of the "blue stuff". I do like to use one that does not have too high of an N number, like maybe a bloom booster formulation. In any case, less is more - don't overdo it. And again, the answer somewhat depends on what nutrients were originally contained in your seed starting mix. Read the label, etc. As to your question: "what do they eat in between time.. 8 weeks is along time to get true leaves" (a) it shouldn't take 8 weeks to get true leaves, if so, something isn't right, and- (b) the seed itself (as Dave also mentioned) does contain some nutrients that will carry the seedling along for a while in the absence of added fertilizers. Nothing wrong with experimenting (as that is how folks learn new things). But -- what I would strongly recommend for you is to read the seed starting FAQ here and follow it to the letter until you get a some solid experience under your belt with successfully starting and growing seedlings to transplant stage. Best of luck. :-)