It's probibly either colder than the pump is desighned to operate in or the pump hasn't been able to recover from a frost up. Switch to aux/emerg heat and see it that helps. If not,call your service man. If yes,leave it on aux until sun defrosts coil then switch back to normal heat. Technicaly,it shouldn't do that but many do it anyhow. If it becomes a presistant problem,stay on emergence heat until this ice spell is passed and hvac contractors catch up.

dave Is it just the outside condensing unit that continues to run or do both the outside unit and the attic air handler continnue to run? If only the outside unit then yes you probably do have a contactor that is stuck closed and will need to be replaced. You can test your contactor by removing the low voltage (24 volts) control wires from the base of the contactor then power back up and try the unit again, if the contactor is still pulled in (stuck closed) and the compressor and fan still run on the outside unit without the control wiring attached then yes the contactor is bad. Note you will need to cut the power off for the outside unit PLUS the attic air handler to shut off all the power. The attic air handler contains the 24 volt transformer and if you do not shut it down there could still be 24 volts coming to the outside unit thru the low voltage wiring. be careful out there people. I would never ever touch any electrical device unless it is proved to be off using a known good and correctly set voltage meter to check it. If you do not have a volatge tester and do not have some knowledge of how to use one please have someone else check the unit out.

When exactly do you mean that the pump continues running? At end of the final spin when the machine should otherwise shut off? Or, if you are referring to the drain period after the agitated wash, the pump won't shut off immediately when the water has drained. It keeps running for a while into the rinse phase. It has to run during spin to drain the extracted water away. There are multiple spin periods during the rinse phase of the cycle, as well as the final spin. It does shut off a few mins into the final spin, then turns back on at the end when spin begins decelerating. An abnormally noisy pump would indicate either that the bearings are getting bad (and it may be leaking a little), or a foreign object or lint/debris may be clogging the tub outlet and rubbing on the impeller. The pump can be run either by advancing the cycle to the final spin, or test run separately in diagnostic mode -- With Power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and panel comes on. Press the Regular cycle button to turn the pump on (or off). Press Power to exit diagnostics. You need to inspect the pump ASAP. A leaking pump can short-out and zap the controller board. Unplug the machine and lean it back for access beneath. The pump is a small electric motor with a fan on the bottom, mounted on a metal plate toward the right side under the tub. Do not remove the mounting plate. Disconnect the pump wires (two wires on a connector plug, separate ground). Find a plastic latch on the bracket near the pump head. Hold the latch released and rotate the entire pump counterclockwise (as viewed from beneath) to detach it from the plate. Have a large towel ready to catch the residual water that remains in the tub outlet. Examine the pump for signs of leaking (rusting or mineral deposits) or bad bearings. With the pump removed, look and feel for foreign objects or a lint/debris clog in the tub outlet opening. The pump is Part Number 420325P. SearsPartsDirect.com carries F&P parts, or FisherPaykelParts.net. Or eBay sellers. A replacement pump should include a retrofit fuse to be spliced into one of the pump wires inside the control panel to help protect against zapping the board. Be sure to follow the directions exactly for your model (GWL15, add the fuse into the WHITE pump wire).

Look at the cost benefit of going tankless, the cost will be much higher and payback may be years coming. May need a larger gas line, will need a new vent stack, etc. For the two of us the cost for tankless was not justified. I installed a 50 Gallon Bradford White, the tank cost was approximately $400. Normally with labor in the area it costs around $800 to install. Power vents not normally used where I reside. Guess with power vent cost to install $1000 assuming electrical is near. Tankless quotes here are between $3000 to $4000. Most gas lines need to be changed to accommodate gas volume requirements and the vent needs to be changed to handle the increased heat. Not a fan of Sears or their water heaters, Bradford White was rated the best by Consumers Reports. I am very satisfied with Bradford White. Looks like turning on and off reset the blower. My two cents.