I cannot help with the spray gun plan, but I would echo what Charina said. I use a home made version of the device in this link. It is: - 5 gallon bucket - drip lines made with smallest gauge standard drip line - hole drilled in the bucket to closely match outer diameter of drip line - inside the bucket, a coupler is attached to the end of the hose. This makes the drip line flare, so that pulling on it tightens it against the hole in the bucket. - attached to the coupler is a pill bottle that has holes drilled in it. It is filled with aquarium floss (like pillow filling), that acts as a filter. - On the watering end, I have micro valves to control the flow. Basically, they are little quarter-turn valves. I can try to dig them up online if you are interested. This works great for me, BUT I am only doing individual trees and a 12' blueberry raised bed. I would guess you would need many more buckets or larger vessels. Also, larger tubing probably more akin to the PVC ones in Charina's vid. Maybe you could calculate gallons needed per sq ft? It is pretty easy to just fill up the buckets and walk away. Plus, it is a slow watering so you have less run off. Let me know is my description is confusing... I can take pictures. Here is a link that might be useful: Drip Irrigation Bucket

i do not do chemical analysis of my soil, so i have no idea what lives and for how long in it. i just look at my plants to see if they do ok. i've started using a very weak solution of 3% peroxide (2-3tsp per gal) about 5 years ago. i read that is one of the tricks that is used for growing larger plants in containers, when most of the soil media is consumed by root mass and the plant can only be rejuved by removing a mere 1-2" around the root ball in-situ. so the rest of the rootball is mostly untouched and very compacted (some top dressing should be done too). peroxide gives roots extra oxygen in a compacted root ball. but solution has to be fresh, not allowed to stand and be used immediately. since i have a number of very large and heavy plants that i cannot repot - i started experimenting. after some time i started watering most if not all my plants with above solution regularly (most of the time, except when i flush). then i started putting my moisture lovers on water-wicks for sub-irrigation (i need to be away for longer then sev weeks at a time and i keep close to 100 plants indoors - so no irrigation system is possible beyond passive wicks and ceramic spikes in city apt). naturally i add peroxide into the water reservoir too - to suppress algae growth (that i learned from hydro forums) and to keep water solution from going briny. of course, i do liquid feed too thru water. i don't see any visible detrimental results on my plants. they are all doing well. it's been 4-5 years.i also started to add water for cacti/jades/sansi - so just everything really at this point. my medium contains 40-50% perlite and the balance is divided between peat/coir peat/fine bark/scoria and some LF sphag or sphag peat depending on the type of plant. i read that peroxide solution also will prevent mildew/mold/fungal infections in the soil - fine with me. since i grow only indoors (+some balcony in summer with no insects to speak of on a high fl except scale) i use exclusively soiless medium and do not use organic ferts (only kelp from time to time, but only for top watering, or very occasional spray with fish emulsion, but spray only, not in soil). so, so far i've had only positive results. plants that i grow: sev ficus lyratas, f benji, f. alii, sev large polyscias; aroids like spath, ags, alocasia,anthuriums, syngonium, caladiums; amaryllis, begonias, stroms, african violets, holiday cacti, tropical ferns; mature jades, var cacti, sansi, broms and ivies. i think that about covers it :). i have subsequently read that watering/misting young seedlings/sprouts/seeds helps to prevent mold/damping off. since i was sprouting some tropicals that required sev months on the heat mat and in moist condition - preventing seeds from mildewing was necessary (peroxide to the resque again: done that, like it, recommend it). by the way for these hard to germinate seeds it is advised to soak the seeds either in peroxide or alcohol solution (much higher concentration) to kill off surface 'flora' - to sterilize the seed surface to keep contaminating the medium.

You can try transplanting it into fresh potting mix and plant it with the affected part of the stem below the soil level in the new mix. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Then reduce the watering. The peroxide spray 1:10 can't hurt, might help. Dave

Hi Growitnow, I sow seeds indoors and I wintersow. I haven't used any peroxide on my WS seeds, however I have recently learned a great deal about using it on the seeds indoors. I had some bad damping off. I mixed 3% hydr. peroxide with water in a 1:10 ratio. I sprayed the surface of the soil and the mold was gone in a matter of hours. I also noticed that the seedlings grew taller and greener over the course of that night. I believe it was from the extra oxygen. I have since then cut the solution to 1:20 and I spray all my indoor trays with it every 2 or 3 days. I haven't had any problems. Some people water with it but I don't think that's necessary. HTH.