Hi aptosca - It said - for potted plants. How are you to know that doesn't mean house plants? That was one of your questions. The terms potted plants and house plants are often used interchangeably, but there is a difference. All houseplants are potted, but not all potted plants are grown in the house; many people have potted plants outside, on patios and porches, or summering their houseplants outside, or just growing-on plants for size or whatever - many reasons. Plants grown outside in pots tend to dry out faster than plants grown indoors, and that's why some people prefer "water retentive" soils for outdoor potted plants. But one thing is true outdoors or indoors - wet soil that never dries out makes for wet roots, and wet roots make for dead plants. As you can see from reading all of this thread, there's a lot of 'different strokes for different folks.' It's one reason that you find so much conflicting information if you do much research. One thing that's absolutely true, though, is that if roots stay too wet, plants die. But... That's not always true, either, because many plants are incredibly, amazingly adaptable. Species that are known to hate "wet feet" sometimes adapt to living in a constantly wet - I mean soaking wet - pot. I know, I have one. This is another source of much conflicting information. My advice to you would be to try what seems reasonable to you, what seems to fit your own requirements best. If things don't work as well as you would like, try something else. Even if you are satisfied with results, go ahead and try something different, just as an experiment. That's one reason you never get tired of working with plants, once you get into it.

i guess it's my turn for input, For years i've been using a formulation called dutch master one for flower production one for vegetative growth, found these to work very consistently and also are so minimal in tds I tend to run little risk of fert burns etc etc, the one thing it does have is that they're both loaded with macro/micros which of course is due to the fact that the fert was developed for MJ growers. in addition i apply twice weekly from spring - fall via foliar spray, what can i say i don't like having to flush often Second on the topic of bird poo ferts they've already been packaged. most are actually bat guano but there is a sea bird poop one as well most are sold by hydroponic stores and have been gathered in several different locations globally, more interestingly is that these locations are also the geographical basing for most orchids.(could this mean that mexican bat guano = good for mexican chids?) any ways i wont supply a link simply because it's better in these cases to attain the products from local hydro shops then on line, being that it'll save you some where in the ball park of 20$ i will supply product names and link for product info all manufactured by sunleaves it comes in these flavors Mexican Peruvian Jamaican and Indonesian also sea bird i haven't used them yet because i think i'm thwarted by the possible stench Gaston Here is a link that might be useful: check it out

Your mileage may vary, but I plant all of my rose wraps (Burrito Method) in it. Those planted in the coir product this year worked well. Those planted in the "organic" blend containing "landfill material", did NOT. But, again, I have extreme evaporation here. There is no summer rain. There is almost constant wind of low humidity. There is extreme UV, to the point where roses and hibiscus sinensis REQUIRE some protection from the direct, all day sun or the foliage burns. If you don't have those kinds of extremes, and if you receive rains so your pots don't dry out in a day, you may not need, nor even benefit from it. Too much fertilizer? I don't think so. I think the issue is the amount of moisture it retains and the humidity and moisture of your conditions/location.

Greg, unless you are willing to put in a good amount of effort, and what can for many a new gardener mean quite a bit of money, it's often best to learn and build a good soil over time. The learning will include a decision to grow, or not to grow organically, and to what extent that is important to you and your family. Many, like myself, religiously avoid what we consider poisons - such as chemical herbicides and pesticides. However, if someone where to give me synthetic fertilizers such as MG, I wouldn't turn it down. Because I have a personal issue with supporting that industry, I wouldn't purchase such products, and I even recommend that others avoid such products. However, even today I added a 6-12-12 farm co-op synthetic fertilizer to my eggplants. It was free, and would have gone to a landfill had I not 'rescued' it. Chemically speaking, for the most part, as long as it's used as a supplement instead of the 'backbone' of the soil structure, the differences between synthetic and organic fertilizers are hardly worth the arguments that sometimes arise. I'll sparingly use that fertilizer until it's gone. Using such products on decorative houseplants is more practical for many who are just starting out. I have found that organics are much 'better' (well rounded, higher buffering capacity, supports the natural environment in which the plants have evolved to grow, etc, etc...) for my life-style and the health of the garden. As others have suggested, MG will not truly replace a good soil, but it will support plant life. In fact, for plants to grow and - depending on your personal definitions - thrive, soil isn't required at all. Hydroponics prove that assertion. As for 'quality soil' brought into your space, unless you know the history of that product forget that word 'quality'. Even the best store-bought top soils are lacking in many nutrients. Depending on where you live and what was done to it in the past, your regular backyard 'dirt' may be better. I have clay where I live, and while it lacks organic matter, it is EXTREMELY nutritious. So, learn what organic matter is available to you locally. Start and learn about your own compost piles. One good rule of thumb (and yes this is simplistic,) for a long-term healthy garden, feed the worms, not the plants. Then learn about the conditions each plant enjoys and make the minor adjustments accordingly. Next year, very early, get a soil test done. Learn what and how to add organics to your soil. Try not to over-think it. Forests and natural environments do quite nicely by just dropping last year's growth on the top of the ground. The key to nature, as others have suggested, is the structure and biology of the soil. Worms, good bugs, fungi, bacteria and soil microbes are where it's at. Learn how to 'farm' those critters and you'll do well. As for now, if you notice pale colors, or the plants seem to be showing unhealthy signs, the internet is a modern gardener's friend. Search the conditions you see, and act accordingly. As you've already done, ask questions. If you choose, add synthetic supplements such as MG erring on the side of less-can-be-more. It's easy to add more after a week or so, but sometimes quite impossible to remove. Read the labels as especially the liquids have a high bio-availability. Since you jumped in, if you do notice issues, synthetics can get you through the early days and even benefit the plants until you can improve your knowledge and skill.