best organic fertilizer?
11 years ago
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Recipe for Organic potting mix
Comments (18)yaso, My primary reason for suggesting buying an organic potting soil from a producer you trust is the company has done a lot of the hard work, assuming they are honest, adjusting the potting mix so that the critical components are where they should be. This may be too much information, but those parameters are total porosity, air space, container capacity, available water, unavailable water, bulk density, pH and cation exchange capacity. Also, nutrition (fertilizer) in some form is typically added so that you can grow at least for an initial period without additional nutrition. All of those things are actually pretty easy to test, but most folks understandably don't want to be bothered. If you can not find good organic, potting soil at one of your local garden centers (I avoid HD or Loew's), try a hydroponics store. Irrespective of what you feel about what their primary customers grow, their selection of high quality potting soils and organic components is far superior to the standard garden centers in my area and I hear everywhere. I have been successfully growing blueberries in pots for several years. I grow Jersey, Rubel, Rancocas, Bluecrop, Elliott, Legacy, Misty, Patriot, Revielle, and, as of last Fall, Elizabeth. Yes, I like the old strains. I agree with shazaam that pH management for blueberries is atypical from most of things folks grow. I did a lot of research before I chose my media and I chose not to use the 5-1-1 media and instead went with a media recommended by Dave Wilson Nursery. http://www.davewilson.com/community-and-resources/videos/blueberries-planted-container http://www.davewilson.com/home-gardens/growing-fruits-and-nuts/growing-vine-and-bush-fruits/blueberries-containers I did it because the water & nutrition management of the 2 media are different and I prefer this media which I find more forgiving. That said, you should be able to get excellent results using the 5-1-1 with careful management. Two words of caution. First, be aware that all components vary in their physical properties EVEN from the same producer. Here is one scientific publication outlining meaningful differences from various Canadian peat mosses. http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/42/2/349.full.pdf The same is particularly true of pine & fir bark where tremendous physical differences have been noted in barks from the same producer harvested at different times of the year or locals tens of miles apart. The second caution is to test the pH of a test batch your media with all the goodies added prior to adding the soil sulfur. I got very lucky & the components I used following the DWN recipe landed me on a pH of 4.9 without any added soil sulfur. The same is true of the 5-1-1 or any other mix. Your blueberries will not do well at the wrong pH. I apologize for adding to your reading list, but here are some excellent blueberry resources: http://nysipm.cornell.edu/organic_guide/blueberry.pdf https://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/summaries/summary.php?pub=14 http://www.umaine.edu/mafes/elec_pubs/bulletins/b852.pdf http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/43/1/51.full.pdf+html Good luck with your blueberries!...See MoreWhat is the best retail organic fertilizer for vege garden?
Comments (33)The formula listed by neil16 is the recipe for Complete Organic Fertilizer from Steve Solomon's book titled Gardening When it Counts: Growing Food in Hard Times. His logic is to supply all of the nitrogen needs and to replace the nutrients that are removed as a result of harvesting the crops. I used the recipe last year with good results and soybean oil meal was my nitrogen source. My local farm supply sells 50# bags for about $16.00. The analysis is about 7-1-1 or 7-2-2 depending on the sources that I've found. This material gives me the biggest bang for my buck in terms of a nitrogen source. One drawback is that the nitrogen must be broken down by microbes for plant availability and that requires warm soil temperatures. In cold weather an animal source of nitrogen like blood meal or a fish product is necessary. Be aware that purchasing kelp, bone meal and rock phosphate in small quantities is quite expensive. I buy 50# bags from an organic supplier in my region for a much better price per pound. I would consider using a complete fertilizer in a newly constructed bed like the one described above since there may be some deficiencies in nutrition for the plants. In a rich, well nourished soil there might only be the need for added nitrogen. Alfalfa meal or pellets are reputed to really rev up the soil organisms although the nitrogen content is less by weight than the seed meals. You can figure out the nitrogen content in animal feed by dividing the crude protein analysis by 6 or multiplying the crude protein by 17%. Years ago I was quite surprised to hear an agronomy professor at Virginia Tech tell how quickly organic forms of nitrogen are made available to plants when they are incorporated into the soil. The animal products are available immediately. I side-dress heavy feeders by moving the mulch and applying my seed meal at the surface. I then re-cover the fertilizer and apply moisture when I can....See MoreYou won't believe this silly mistake!
Comments (6)Thanks so much Bill for responding! I'm not worried about using too much... actually trying to figure out how little I can get away with. We kept to one bin and used the bin size to keep the amount of worms we had under control. Now I'm kinda regretting my decision and thinking about starting another bin now rather then in the fall as I'm now worried I don't have enough castings for gardening needs later this summer. I was just adding a spoonful to my transplants in the ground and counting on that and natual soil to grow healthy flowers. But now with these container veggies I'm growing not quite sure what to give as the main source of nutrients for the veggies are going to be coming from the castings themselves (not counting on the potting soil to have much in there for the plants as it's mostly peatmoss and perlite). Also we are using bottom self watering (wicking)to do this so 'nutrients' won't be purged away. Basically now that we've got the vermicomposting down (actually learned they happier the more you kinda neglect them and just keep em warm and fed LOL tough little buggers) we are ready to learn how to most efficently use their castings as a main source of nutrients with veggies. Was under the assumption that castings are more packed with nutrients (on top of the bonus of microbial activity) that maybe less could be used in comparison to say standard organic compost some grow their plants with... in a container setting. Was I wrong to think that? Not sure if anyone has ever tried to use castings in such a way or it's even possible. P.S. Also, after talking to the hubby this morning we are hoping to get enough worms going now to supply castings in place of regular compost in a small (2x3) square foot garden next year. Normally the homemade soil requirement is 1/3 peatmoss, 1/3 perlite, 1/3 organic compost. Of course we would be using less castings.. maybe 20 percent of the mix.. and maybe up the amount of peatmoss and perlite a bit....See MoreBest Organic Fertilizer for Succulents?
Comments (11)If nutrients were plant food, it could be said that a plants diet consists of salts. In the end, the nutrients supplied by a dead fish, dead plant matter, and various organic meals like bone meal, feather meal, hoof/horn meal ......, are all taken up as exactly the same salts as those manufactured/packaged by entities like Miracle-Gro, Peter's, Jack's, et al. The difference is in the fact that the soil amendments cum fertilizers (dead plant/animal parts) in organic form MUST be acted upon by soil organisms able to cleave the hydrocarbon chains in which nutrients are locked away from and inaccessible to plants. The problem with depending on soil biota to UNLOCK these hydrocarbon chains lies in the fact that in containers their populations and ability to function are either boom or bust, significantly affected by things like moisture levels, pH, fertility levels, what youy might be using to treat insects/diseases, your eye color (just seeing if you're still paying attention. Eye color isn't important). While the chemical salts in fertilizers like MG and FP are reliably and immediately available for uptake, it's questionable whether nutrients in your 3:3:3 really ARE soluble. If they're truly in organic form, they wouldn't likely be any more soluble than a road apple, which means the hydrocarbon chains need 'further processing' by soil life. In the end, that leaves you not knowing what your plant will get (in terms of nutrients) or when it might get it/them. With the synthetic products, you know exactly what's available and when it's available. If temps rise above 85*, you can withhold fertilizer to make it easier for your plants to take up the extra water they'll need ...... kind of hard to remove the feather and alfalfa meal after it's mixed into the soil, yes? Since plants don't care where their nutrients come from, getting the nutrients needed by plants to them WHEN they are actually needed with near complete control is why I choose to use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 for virtually everything I grow. It has ALL the essential nutrients plants take from the soil via the root system in a ratio at which the average plant actually USES the nutrients. It also derives its N from sources other than urea or other ammoniacal sources, which goes a long way toward keeping plants not getting as much light as they prefer from getting coarse and leggy. Urea and ammoniacal forms of N tend to promote longer internodes and larger leaves - which are not normally considered desirable descriptors when it comes to plants growing in pots. Al...See More- 11 years ago
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