Hi Eskota, Pruning sealer is something that Gator and I disagree on. As has been mentioned, Linda Chalker-Scott is not the end-all authority for horticulture, but at least her conclusions are scientifically based. Below is a link of what she has to say regarding pruning sealer. I do think Bug Juice could have a small slight residual benefit if you are concerned about borers colonizing a pruning wound. Not that there is anything particularly special about Bug Juice (i.e. Deltamethrin) vs. other pyrethroids, but any broad spectrum insecticide will tend to slow borers down. I think there could be some advantage to treating large wounds with a strong copper solution. The reason is that large wounds can take many years to heal over. If the wound is large enough the wood in the center of wound can rot before the wound calluses over completely. If that happens, it will leave a hole that could trap water in the hole and slow callusing even more. Copper is decidedly different than asphalt or caulk type products that are routinely sold for wound dressings. Copper will not seal in moisture. I will also point out that my comments regarding copper are not based upon scientific testing. They are based only on deduction and some experience. Deductively, copper has fairly good broad spectrum fungicide activity. Copper is also one of the preservatives of treated lumber. And again copper will not seal in moisture as other wound dressings can. I first learned of this idea from an arborist who posted on a different forum. He claimed to have used this treatment with good success. My experience is also anecdotal. I've tried it on one very large wound. I treated the wound a couple times in the last three years and haven't seen any rotting of the core wood yet. The wound continues to close up. It was probably the largest wound I've made (about 6"). I've made several smaller wounds 4" or less and haven't put any copper on them and they've healed up themselves. I do try to spray big wounds when I spray the fruit for insects and disease. Generally I have an insecticide and fungicide in the tank mix, so the wounds get attention of a sort. I try not to let unwanted limbs get so far ahead of me that I have to use a chain saw. I'm getting better and for the last few years I've only made large wounds where I let central leader trees (like pears) get too tall and am bringing them down slowly. Here is a link that might be useful: Linda Scott - Wound dressings

Thank you, luckymom. This house is still a work in progress; no doubt I'll be ready to remodel by the time I get everything like I want it, LOL. The slate is called Multi, and has charcoal, rusts, greens, golds, deep aubergine, and a little cream tones. As I mentioned, it is gauged. It is not the Chinese Multi that you see at Lowes and some home improvement stores, although it is similar. Some of the Chinese Multi has purple, or irridescent colors (very pretty) but is more fragile and flakes more. Also some of the Chinese Multi I looked at is not gauged. Here are some closeups of the Multi--hope this helps!

Let me put it this way-- I've used sealer before that was WELL beyond its shelf life and had no adverse effects. That was before I knew better. Not sure that I'd do it now, just for safety's sake.

Use a top-quality primer. * IMO...avoid the KILZ group of primers. * Zinsser's 123 or Cover-Stain are very good. * C2-One, & C2 A9100 Ext. Alkyd primers are great too. Make sure the bare wood areas are clean & dust-free...AND DRY. TWO topcoats of paint though!! Faron