As I understand it, professional orchid growers propogate orchids in sterile labs, and even then, it may not work, even if a particular plant is usually easy to propogate. Big plug for Meyers Conservatory, who's been among the best growers to deal with - for me, anyway. From his site: Meyers Conservatory's mission is to provide laboratory-grown orchid species at the lowest possible price in an effort to aid in orchid species conservation. Since we started in 1999, we've never operated as a for-profit business, instead charging just enough to cover the costs of the flasks we produce and to pay our employees. https://lab.troymeyers.com/flasking/donate-funds.php They accept donations. From the flasking page: We usually charge the same amount for each flask, regardless of its rarity. Rare orchids or particularly nice specimens usually command a higher price, but unless there are difficulties growing a species we don't charge more; we will charge more if propagation requires extra time or materials, but not just because it's desirable. By not charging a lot for something rare, we can rest easy knowing that we're not helping to perpetuate the high prices that make collection of wild endangered orchids profitable. __________ I check the site every couple of weeks. Troy doesn't have a large selection, but he's had orchids that I couldn't find anywhere else in the U.S. WC8 Here is a link that might be useful: Troy Meyers' flasking page

Medium should be light, porous and well aerated. There are so many formulas out there that would work depending on what you have or have access to. For starters, a pre-bagged "cactus" mix with perlite added to make up about 1/3 of the volume will be OK until the seedlings would need to be transplanted. You can soak the seeds for a few hours in warm water first, then plant them on the surface and lightly sprinkle some mix on top. Keep the pots sealed for about 48 hrs in plastic. Open the seal a couple times daily if possible to let some fresh air inside. The biggest enemy is mold and fungus. A fungicide in advance helps prevent it. Full sun is not needed in the beginning, bright light is adequate. Do a google search for "growing adenium from seed". The instructions are essentially the same as for Pachys. Fresh seed germinates quickly (within a few days). Old seed may not germinate at all. Temps in excess of 80oF seem to lead to quicker germination. In my opinion, unless you are sowing hybrid seed and are curious about the outcome, or you are sowing in masses for commercial purposes, I think money is better spent on buying some seedlings - all the work is done for you, you don't have to worry about failure and they are not expensive. Good luck! x

While I've never grown them myself, Christmas Palms will start themselves if they roll under the mulch after falling off the tree. My neighbor has dozens of volunteers in the ground from his palms. Last week I yanked a Spindle Palm volunteer that was growing up between the bromeliads planted below it. (Don't worry, I didn't toss it out. Saving it for whoever wants it at the Swap-a-Que.) Queens, Robellenii, Washingtonias, all seem to pop up without any help from me. I must have a dozen Licuala spinosa from seeds that ripened and fell. And don't get me started on Arecas. I know the nurseries all use specific techniques, depending on the palm. But for home growers, just plain dumb luck seems to be the best route to follow.

See the Gemination Guide on the International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS) website: http://www.carnivorousplants.org/seedbank/seedgermguide.htm