Heey Laura,

How are ya and how is the winter sowing going? I bought some cup and saucer wines off ebay, and they are the purplr and cream types.

Anyhoo....try the info below to germinate the seeds

Cobaea scandens should be sown in late winter or very early spring, individually in small pots in seed compost, each seed set on its edge and thinly covered with more compost or perlite. Cover the pots with clingfilm to retain moisture and put in a windowsill propagator. Germination takes three weeks to a month. Once germinated the seedlings should be moved to larger (5in) pots with stakes inserted so that the young stems have something around which to twine. Grow them on at a cooler temperature. Harden them off carefully and put the young plants out in the garden when the danger of frost is past, against a sturdy trellis or close to a south-facing wall or fence on to which wires or netting have been attached. Cobaea does best in moist but well-drained soil, so water regularly in dry spells.

Cobaea scandens can be grown in a large pot (at least in diameter) in large cool greenhouse or conservatory, as long as suitable wires are provided for it to cling to. Any pot-grown cobaea needs copious watering and protection against glasshouse red spider mite. They will overwinter provided that the temperature at night does not dip below 5C.

Please keep me informed re: the royal horticultural garden spring sales, and in mind for brug cuttings and spare cannas.

Cheers

From my own experience I can say that the freshness of the seed has something to do with it. I have never had old (that is over one year) seed sprout--except for one batch that was on its second year, but it was hermetically sealed. Fresh is best with this plant.

Also, I use the paper towel method. I wrap in damp paper towel, put in a plastic bag and put it someplace warm. I open it up for air each day or so. Then after some days, a gross, stringy, gooey, guk is on th outside of the seeds. I pull that off, wipe the seeds well, give them a fresh paper towel, and put them back in the bag.

As soon as I see a sprout (sometimes as soon as a week), I plant it root tip down, and allow part (not quite half because it is already sprouted) of the seed coat to stick out of the soil straight up and down. The seed comes right up.

Once up, sometimes the little cotyledons have difficulty getting out. Be careful not to mess with them too much because you can damage or kill them. However, I have been known to assist a seed or two. The tip of the seed that was sticking out is quite dry, and hard for the seed to push off. If you dab it with moisture regularly (with a Q-Tip) it may be fine. if not, you may have to split the seed off: use caution! Wait to see if the plant can do it for itself first. Right now, I have 9 plants going; several have their second set of true leaves!

I hope this was helpful. Again, this is only from my own experience & mistakes.

Good Luck,
Robin

I've always had luck growing the seed in potting soil in a pot that's really wet and in very hot sun. They germinate in one day.